Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Low Speed Stall While Turning
Jun 10, 2016
2011 GLS 2.4L auto 50K
After many months of trouble free driving, the vehicle has stalled twice at low speed while making a sharp turn. Once turning right, once turning left. Once it was warmed up, and once it was cold. Starts right up again. The vehicle has had all current recalls/tsbs to date including the various steering items except the most recent EPS 143 notice that has no remedy yet.
I will be test driving it myself to see if I can replicate the issue. I am not seeing anything specific on the forums other than maybe the TPS.
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I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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I have a 2011 Sonata and have had trouble getting it started. A few days ago it kept turning but wouldn't start. I tried jumping it and nothing. Then it randomly turned on. I thought it was the battery and switched that out today but now it won't start at all. Sounds like it's trying to and then has a noise that keeps going for about 10 seconds after . I've seen other posts about issues with the 2.4L engines and am wondering if I'm having the same problem. I have a video for it here: [URL] .....
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Have a 2011 Sonatas. Recently the interior lights won't turn off or dim and go off when the door closes.
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Noticed here lately that my 2011 Sonata LTD started making the thud noise when turning. Dealer says this is under the basic warranty but NHTSA states Power train. This was the service manager telling me this.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with a very annoying ignition key issue. Out of the blue after turning the car off the Ignition key does not come out. The car turns off after putting it in park and everything just fine but the key will not come out. I tried wiggling and driving the car around and everything for a while but no luck. So eventually after fussing with it enough i figured out taking the fuse for the entertainment system out (Radio/clock/side mirror control) i can get the key to work perfectly.
So for the last two days i have been able to make the car work without radio or anything and it works fine but i would want my radio back as well.
Unfortunately the car has 75k miles on it and the dealer wants $120 just to look into the problem and are quoting somewhere in the $3,000 range to fix the issue (they want to replace the whole assembly since they don't know what to do) which i think is BS reason to take my money.
So i know its not the fuse as i replaced it already and everything will work perfectly fine if i connect the fuse back in. every time i want to exit the car and take the key out i just have to take the fuse out manually and key comes out.
Not sure if this is related in anyway but i have been having an annoying AC issue where it will turn off by itself after 30-40 minutes of use or will simply blow hot air. Solution for this was to take turn AC off and back on which normally fixes it. My local Hyundai dealer has never been able to replicate this issue so they never fixed it under warranty while it was under warranty.
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I am getting a click from the steering when rocking the wheel left or right. It is coming from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to. I see there is a large bearing on the end where the shaft comes out. I am not sure what this assembly is called. I have had it at the dealer and they said they re-torqued everything but they could not duplicate it.
I do not fall in the range for the recall and I have no problem with the car pulling left so I do not think it has anything to do with the intermediate shaft. It is clearly from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to on the steering wheel end of the intermediate shaft. 2011 limited
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Remote App will not turn engine off, just start it. How Dumb is this to design car to remote start but Not Remote Turn Off???
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If I turn on the A/C should my cooling fan be running on "high" speed? The reason why I'm asking is because once I turn off the A/C and wait for 5 minutes at idle, the cooling fan comes on by itself but the speed seems to be the same speed as when the A/C is on. When will it be low speed or when will it be high speed?
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Saturday I picked up a set of OEM staggered 18 inch genny wheels and tires. rims are perfect, no curb rash. Tires all have about 8/32 tread on them. I mounted them myself and I had a horrible vibration that started around 50mph. Sunday I took them down to one of the only local shops that are open and have the TPMS swapped and balanced. Vibration is still there. Monday I take it to America's Tires to have the wheels and tires checked for dents, out of round,etc. and balanced again. One of the rears (245/45/18 had water in it. They removed the water and remounted and balanced it. Vibration still there. It's definitely better but still shaking at around 55-60mph. Today I went to another shop that had the Hunter road force balancer. Got all four done and alignment. Boom...another wheel had water in it. this time it was one of the fronts (225/45/18). Still vibrating.
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A few weeks ago I noticed a 'clunk' noise when turning the steering wheel. It only did it the first turn on a trip. Over time it has gotten worse - the sound is the same, but it happens for several turns, maybe 10 or so, before it stops. After the car sits, turned off, for a while, the cycle starts again.
I replaced the rubber coupler on the MDPS, but my old one looked fine, and it made no change in the noise.
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The car basically struggles to crank. Today it failed to completely start. It took multiple tries at turning the key to get it kick and each time the car would chug until it started.
About a month ago, the dealership said she needed a new battery when she took her car in for an oil change. They told her at that time that they found the car to take longer than normal to crank and wanted to charge $80 for a battery, sale price (normally $150 at dealership). She declined at the time.
When I used the car since then it cranked fine, about a good 3-4 seconds. We had the battery tested at discount auto and they found the battery to work fine and out-put more than enough cranking amps.
Last week she was away for a few days and had the car sit untouched. But when she came back she went on a small 100+mile road trip with the car and it ran fine. And when she came back from that, she took the car to do some errands around town. Today, the car took much longer than usual to fully start.
I don't think it's the battery. Possibly something with ignition. Engine turns over, so it is getting adequate power from the battery to the starter. Engine doesn't misfire. No engine-lights on the dashboard, nothing.
2011 Sonata 2.4L
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When I hit bumps, yank to the left, or go above a certain speed my steering wheel will start shaking and a loud clicking noise happens.
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Just got a Sonata. loving it ... One thing I was missing on the nav is the speed limit of the rood you are driving on. Is there any way to enable it? Also have there been regular/any firmware/maps update to nav and where to get them from and how to install.
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This is my 2011 2.4L Hyundai Sonata with around 78,000 miles(no warranty). For the past two days car wasn't accelerating as it used to and all of a sudden today it started to produce hammering sound. Sounds gets loud with speed. Gears are switching like normal. There is a warning signal also that is attached in the picture below.
[URL] ....
I want to know where is the sound coming from? Should i fill any oil? If so what brand and where is the nozzle located.
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I'm a 2nd owner of a 2011 Sonata, and am currently at 99,800 miles. I have an extended warranty (so I've been told) that covers powertrain I believe until 100,000? When turning the wheel to the right then left, or vice versa, theres a clunk/thud sound produced from the steering column.
I am assuming this is not normal. Will my hyundai dealer cover this since it seems to be a common annoyance on these cars. Is it dangerous to not get it fixed?
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Crossing 90K soon and noticing some vibration in the steering wheel. Have also been trying (in vain) to locate a clicking suspension noise in the rear.
Decided to pop the Red Sled up on stands and tighten stuff up. Few loose nuts in the rear (sway bar end links and the trailing arm bolts) so retorqued those. However, noise has only decreased, not gone away.
In the front, things are even worse. Tie rods are due for replacement (boots broken and right one had water in it) as well as ball joints. But the worse part is that the steering rack is whining when turning in either direction.
Thinking of tackling the front end work aside from alignment. Doesn't look hard so I do not fear that. But the steering rack is another beast entirely.
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I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited for one full year now and this is the first problem I've encountered, and its a strange one.
After parking and shutting off the vehicle (with the push button since I have the smart fob) if I exit the vehicle and shut the door the car will produce a loud BEEP for several seconds. If I look through the window, the screen on the instrument cluster will very briefly say "key not in vehicle" as if I had left the engine running, but actually the engine is off. The message goes away after a second or two, but the beep continues for a few more seconds.
After the beep stops, I'm able to lock the doors normally by pushing the button on the door handle or using the remote. It seems to happen about every other time I park/get out of the car, but it is random. The only pattern I've found is it always happens if I am in a rush. If I turn off the car, open and close the door quickly, it almost always beeps at me. But if I turn off the car, sit inside for a few extra seconds and THEN get out, it seems to be fine. What could be causing this?
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Vehicle: 2013 Hyundai GLS @ 36k miles.
When my vehicle is stopped or in motion at low speed, if I turn the steering wheel, I hear a knocking out at the sound towards the front of the vehicle. How concern should I be?
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Started out clunk sound only if going over speed bump, or bumpy road. Now more often with slightest road bumps.
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I currently have I45, 2 years old, that recently when driving at 100km approx 1.5to2K revs, loud noise like tyre has blown but was is happening the motor goes up to 3k revs, I have to pull over & stop the motor & restart otherwise if I keep driving the motor is revving at 3k revs unable to increase speed.
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