Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Low Pressure Tire Gauge Lit Up In The Middle Of Traffic
Aug 16, 2014
Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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I own a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, my grandma owns a 2014 Sonata, and my other grandparents own a 2011 Sonata. On their cars, when their low tire pressure light comes on, the little display inside the RPM gauge shows them which tire is low. My low tire pressure light comes on and works, but for some reason it doesn't indicate which tire is low. It'll tell me which door is opened, but won't show which tire is low. How to fix this, or why it's happening?
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Message popped up on my dash board just now. What tire pressure do the Kumho's which came with it take?
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This happened once right after I bought the car in February and the service center said that I didn't have low tire pressure, but it registered because "cold air makes the air molecules move slower and sets off the tire pressure sensor". Yet all my tires are at 37 psi. Now this stopped all through the spring, summer and fall and last night it went down to 32 degrees and the thing popped up again!
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I had a low tire indicator show up on the dash today while driving home. It was flashing. I continued to drive, (only a mile from home) since there was no indication of anything going wrong with the tires. Then, the indicator stopped flashing, and went to steady. Then, by the time I hit the brakes to turn down my road, the indicator was gone. So, I checked all my tires, and with my very old accoutre gauge, they all showed 34.5 (35 being the spec). I hope to not see that again.
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I was running my car today and low tire pressure light jumped on. I checked the tires and they was all good. Turned the car off then tried to turn it on and the remote key fob didn't work so the car wouldn't start. I had to do it manually to start the car. I get no clock, no interior lights. On the dash it says the trunk is open when its not. Every time I restart the car it doesn't remember my dash light settings. I have Shark racing deleted harness installed with fog lights leds and I have HIDS from DDM turning with the relay installed. It did this stuff after I hand washed the car. I don't think water got in the wiring. Did my ECU blown. I just had it at the dealer and they put a new battery in the key fob and they changed the oil.
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I have a 97 Splash with the 3.0, oil pressure goes up to about the middle of the gauge after startup, however, it stays there whatever I do, warm/cold, idle/5500 rpm. Is it supposed to be like that?
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The tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
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Is it normal for the rear defroster to only defrost the middle of the window. The top and bottom don't defrost. Does this have to do with the antenna?
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I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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My Sonata suddenly started having front right brake sticking issue. It will happen only after an extended distance of frequent drive & stop. Something like Houston daily ride. So, after the traffic jam mysteriously clear and you can get some speed, starting at 40MPH a high grinding noise from the front (Ceramic brake pads) and the car feels very heavy. The sticking phenomenon will disappear if you wait a little with avoiding using the brakes.
I am going to check it today. So far I know that the sliding pins are not the issue. I recently cleaned them and lubricated them. The front right brake will get hot while the left are just in normal temperature. The brake pedal is getting higher while the sticking is about to happen and happening.
My first guess is the Flexible brake hose. Or maybe a bad caliper. I think if the master cylinder was the issue, I might have more than one sticking brake wheel. I don't know how common it is to have a bad ABS unit causing this issue. It feels really like a build up pressure caused by a valve effect of interior deteriorated brake hose.
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OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
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I got the message to "check tire pressure" which I did. All tires were very close to 41 psi and I tweaked the pressures to the recommended indicated on the driver's side door jamb. I did this almost a week ago and the indicator still goes on. I check the tires again and the gauge reads 41 on all 4 tires. Can something still be wrong? Does something have to be reset?
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I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai Sonata that is giving me a "Low Tire Pressure" warning. I have checked the air pressure in all of the tires and I still get the error. How I can find the tire pressure that is giving me the error?
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I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
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in my 2011 jetta i got a low tire pressure icon on my dash, turns out there was a nail in my tire, i repaired it and filled all of my tires to the ideal tire pressure and now 3 days later the icon still shows on my dash....?
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I brought this 2005 Camry last March of 2013. It has an faulty engine computer rendering vehicle inoperable and useless. It died in the middle of traffic not too long ago, and I almost was t-boned. Then it died in the middle of the turn lane and I had to restart it three times to get it to a repair shop where they reflashed the engine computer. Now today, May 25th, it did it again! Right after I pulled out of my driveway it died on the road. I was not on Highway 94 otherwise I would have been rear-ended.
I believe there is a TSB on a faulty engine computer for the 2005 to 2006 Toyota Camry and it should be covered under emissions warranty and this is a serious safety issue, I almost had my car smashed up the first time! Until this problem is fixed, I wouldn't feel comfortable taking it out on a roadtrip. Right now I have a 9 grand paperweight in my driveway, and in fact my 1996 F-150 has been much more reliable than this Camry. I don't want this to drag on for a week, if its not covered under emissons warranty/by Toyota, I will just order a used engine computer and install it.
I am going to order a engine computer and see if the problem goes away. When it died the second time, I had to restart three or four times to get back to my driveway where I left car.
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One of the few disappointments I had with my 2011 F350 was it lacked a display of individual tire pressures like both Dodge & GM have. I figured the idiot light would have to do. Recently I found that an inner dual tire was flat. It made a subtle squeal when braking or turning sharply, and a quick inspection showed I picked up a nail.
I never got a tire pressure alarm. I read my manual and it describes the system, but the writeup only indicates setting up four tires. Am I missing something? Have you guys got a working tire pressure monitor on your duallies?
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