Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Loss Of Power / Falling Out Of Gear - Brake Light Stays On
Dec 6, 2016
I recently (July 2016) bought a 2012 2.0T Limited with 14K miles. Got an awesome deal on it and really love the car. About two months ago the car had a total loss of power/boost. I took it into the dealer and they performed a wastegate actuator adjustment (something I will be doing on my own now if it becomes a problem again). Now at about 21k miles I'm having a different issue. Here is what's happening:
Accelerating from a stop the car feels as if it's falling out of gear intermittently. Once it happens and I press the gas more/floor it, the car doesn't respond. If I let off the gas and then press it again, the car will then start to accelerate again. On the highway cruising at 70ish, the same thing happens and it even oscillates with constant throttle like its down/up shifting. The ESC light came after a 20 mile highway trip of this oscillation. No CEL. When I got off the freeway, the navigation screen said there may be a problem and I should press the bluelink button.
When this is happening the cruise control either doesn't work at all or the "cruise" light will come on but I can't set a speed. Tonight I noticed in the rear view mirror that the brake light stays on or even flutters after I brake which corresponds to when the cruise is or isnt working as well as when the car intermittently falls out of gear/oscillates falling out of gear with constant throttle. If I notice the brake light is on without actually braking, I can take my foot and pull the brake pedal towards me which turns off the brake light and then the car seems to work correctly as well as the cruise control. The car is driveable but definitely something is wrong.
I should mention that I checked the voltage for the wastegate actuator and it is 3.97v which I believe is within tolerance. All of these issues with no CEL.
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Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate—it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting—at which time it acts normally. The braking system is fine.
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Sometimes when I start my car, parking brake light fails to go off. I know this is usually indicative of low brake fluid, but mine is not low. I rarely use the brake so I don't think it's the parking brake switch either as it only happens if the parking brake is not engaged. Never happens on the occasional use of it.
Restarting doesn't seem to work unless I set the brake, restart, then disengage it. Very strange problem. Not a big deal but is a bit perplexing. I never see a CEL or any codes generated at all.
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I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
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This morning, while backing out of my driveway, I lost reverse for about one second. It disengaged, just revved, then engaged on its own. I looked down and the "R" on the indicator next to the shifter was not shaded red. Put it into drive to go up the street and "D" was not shaded blue. I then looked up at the dash and the gear indicator up there was blank. Turned the car off and back on and everything has been fine since. 2011 GLS, 43000 miles.
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The air bag light in the dash came up, and stays up. I checked for connections under the seats, and tried the battery disconnect thing. N/G. It's my son's car, and until he brings it in to get the code read, is there anything I can do in the meantime?
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TPMS sensor has recently came in and stays on. However i checked all 4 tires and the pressures in them are at the appropriate values. I am assuming this could be related to maybe the system just not "seeing" one of the sensors or something. I heard if you use an OBD2 adapter you can see the values reported and it will show exactly what tire is reporting the problem.
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Just purchased the 2012 GLS this past Saturday and everything is good except for one thing. My dome light even in the "door" position stays on after starting the car and driving. I have to manually switch it to off to turn the interior light off, which is annoying. I called the dealership today and they had no prior experience with that problem. BTW, I did have a sunroof installed.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and my overhead light stays on in the DOOR position. I didn't have problems until I took it to a car wash a few months ago and I think one of the workers did something by accident because it hadn't worked since. I have to keep it OFF at night but I hate entering my car at night and no light comes on.
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A week into owning my Sonata, I noticed the right tail light had become ajar, with the plastic fittings completely snapped off.
I had to take it to the dealership to get it serviced, whatever, problem solved. Right? Yesterday, the left tail light snapped off in the same way.
I have not been hit or gotten into any kind of accident for that matter. I got it serviced again today and asked if this was some kind of a defect in the car.
For both tail lights to snap off is really a mystery to me.
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My car shifted wrong (i don't know how since it is automatic) and heard a loud knocking noises and lost power and then she shut down and turned off. called Hyundai assurance and they towed it to the nearest dealership since my dealership is an hour and a half away from my school. I don't know how this happened. I tried to crank it back up. heard a loud squeal maybe water pump? and she turns on but the rpms wouldn't go past 500 rpms well there she goes.
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My son is primary driver of our 2011 Limited with push-button start. He phoned me a few minutes ago to tell me he was driving--everything normal-- when there was suddenly a complete loss of power, mechanical and electrical (engine died, dash lights out, nav screen dark, etc.). There was no advance warning of any kind.
The power loss was total but brief, two or three seconds, and then reactivated on its own. My son said he pulled off the road into a parking area, stopped the engine, waited a few seconds and then restarted and is on his way home with everything working normally so far.
First issue with the Sonata--61k miles ....
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I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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long time ago i had to change master cylinder and the calipers on the fronts and the break fluid well i decided to test it out and see if they were working fter i was done with them then the light on the dash came on i thought its because the floating thing in the master cylinder was not floating which was not the case i dont think its the sensor i also lost my emergency break shoes never replaced em
01 f250 2wd 7.3l v8 diesel straight pipe 310,xxx
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When I had my center console out to do the DIY cupholder light mod, I also took apart the gear position indicator light assembly. It is just a plastic clamshell around a pc board with a bunch of LEDs on it. Three phillips screws hold it together. It is a really simple design. I took a black sharpie pen to each of the LEDs, putting a centered dot on each of them, covering maybe 2/3 of the lens area. I just guessed at that coverage. I reassembled it and was very pleased at the result when it's dark out. The brightness is about half of what it was, just right in my book. You can use the "DIY cupholder mod" thread (page 1) to see how to get the console out. I drive a lot at night, and the bright light has always bothered me. Now if I could just dim those annoying bright green dash lights...
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My driver side brake light keeps going out. I replaced the bulb couple of months ago and had to replace it again. Switch the socket? Switch to led bulbs?
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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Over the past 4 months I've had the brake warning light, the one that comes on when you press the parking brake on, come on randomly. In each occasion turning the car off and then starting it back up clears it for the rest of the day. I had it happen 5 months ago, a couple months ago, two weeks ago on new years and then this Saturday and Sunday. Took it to the dealer today and it shows no codes but they managed to get it to come on once. They think its an electrical issue which makes no sense to me.
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Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate?it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting?at which time it acts normally for the rest of the day. The braking system is fine.
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A month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
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I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
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