Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Keep Turning But Won't Start
Jun 29, 2015
I have a 2011 Sonata and have had trouble getting it started. A few days ago it kept turning but wouldn't start. I tried jumping it and nothing. Then it randomly turned on. I thought it was the battery and switched that out today but now it won't start at all. Sounds like it's trying to and then has a noise that keeps going for about 10 seconds after . I've seen other posts about issues with the 2.4L engines and am wondering if I'm having the same problem. I have a video for it here: [URL] .....
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2011 GLS 2.4L auto 50K
After many months of trouble free driving, the vehicle has stalled twice at low speed while making a sharp turn. Once turning right, once turning left. Once it was warmed up, and once it was cold. Starts right up again. The vehicle has had all current recalls/tsbs to date including the various steering items except the most recent EPS 143 notice that has no remedy yet.
I will be test driving it myself to see if I can replicate the issue. I am not seeing anything specific on the forums other than maybe the TPS.
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Have a 2011 Sonatas. Recently the interior lights won't turn off or dim and go off when the door closes.
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Noticed here lately that my 2011 Sonata LTD started making the thud noise when turning. Dealer says this is under the basic warranty but NHTSA states Power train. This was the service manager telling me this.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with a very annoying ignition key issue. Out of the blue after turning the car off the Ignition key does not come out. The car turns off after putting it in park and everything just fine but the key will not come out. I tried wiggling and driving the car around and everything for a while but no luck. So eventually after fussing with it enough i figured out taking the fuse for the entertainment system out (Radio/clock/side mirror control) i can get the key to work perfectly.
So for the last two days i have been able to make the car work without radio or anything and it works fine but i would want my radio back as well.
Unfortunately the car has 75k miles on it and the dealer wants $120 just to look into the problem and are quoting somewhere in the $3,000 range to fix the issue (they want to replace the whole assembly since they don't know what to do) which i think is BS reason to take my money.
So i know its not the fuse as i replaced it already and everything will work perfectly fine if i connect the fuse back in. every time i want to exit the car and take the key out i just have to take the fuse out manually and key comes out.
Not sure if this is related in anyway but i have been having an annoying AC issue where it will turn off by itself after 30-40 minutes of use or will simply blow hot air. Solution for this was to take turn AC off and back on which normally fixes it. My local Hyundai dealer has never been able to replicate this issue so they never fixed it under warranty while it was under warranty.
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I am getting a click from the steering when rocking the wheel left or right. It is coming from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to. I see there is a large bearing on the end where the shaft comes out. I am not sure what this assembly is called. I have had it at the dealer and they said they re-torqued everything but they could not duplicate it.
I do not fall in the range for the recall and I have no problem with the car pulling left so I do not think it has anything to do with the intermediate shaft. It is clearly from the assembly the intermediate shaft is connected to on the steering wheel end of the intermediate shaft. 2011 limited
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Remote App will not turn engine off, just start it. How Dumb is this to design car to remote start but Not Remote Turn Off???
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A few weeks ago I noticed a 'clunk' noise when turning the steering wheel. It only did it the first turn on a trip. Over time it has gotten worse - the sound is the same, but it happens for several turns, maybe 10 or so, before it stops. After the car sits, turned off, for a while, the cycle starts again.
I replaced the rubber coupler on the MDPS, but my old one looked fine, and it made no change in the noise.
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The car basically struggles to crank. Today it failed to completely start. It took multiple tries at turning the key to get it kick and each time the car would chug until it started.
About a month ago, the dealership said she needed a new battery when she took her car in for an oil change. They told her at that time that they found the car to take longer than normal to crank and wanted to charge $80 for a battery, sale price (normally $150 at dealership). She declined at the time.
When I used the car since then it cranked fine, about a good 3-4 seconds. We had the battery tested at discount auto and they found the battery to work fine and out-put more than enough cranking amps.
Last week she was away for a few days and had the car sit untouched. But when she came back she went on a small 100+mile road trip with the car and it ran fine. And when she came back from that, she took the car to do some errands around town. Today, the car took much longer than usual to fully start.
I don't think it's the battery. Possibly something with ignition. Engine turns over, so it is getting adequate power from the battery to the starter. Engine doesn't misfire. No engine-lights on the dashboard, nothing.
2011 Sonata 2.4L
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I'm a 2nd owner of a 2011 Sonata, and am currently at 99,800 miles. I have an extended warranty (so I've been told) that covers powertrain I believe until 100,000? When turning the wheel to the right then left, or vice versa, theres a clunk/thud sound produced from the steering column.
I am assuming this is not normal. Will my hyundai dealer cover this since it seems to be a common annoyance on these cars. Is it dangerous to not get it fixed?
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Crossing 90K soon and noticing some vibration in the steering wheel. Have also been trying (in vain) to locate a clicking suspension noise in the rear.
Decided to pop the Red Sled up on stands and tighten stuff up. Few loose nuts in the rear (sway bar end links and the trailing arm bolts) so retorqued those. However, noise has only decreased, not gone away.
In the front, things are even worse. Tie rods are due for replacement (boots broken and right one had water in it) as well as ball joints. But the worse part is that the steering rack is whining when turning in either direction.
Thinking of tackling the front end work aside from alignment. Doesn't look hard so I do not fear that. But the steering rack is another beast entirely.
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I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited for one full year now and this is the first problem I've encountered, and its a strange one.
After parking and shutting off the vehicle (with the push button since I have the smart fob) if I exit the vehicle and shut the door the car will produce a loud BEEP for several seconds. If I look through the window, the screen on the instrument cluster will very briefly say "key not in vehicle" as if I had left the engine running, but actually the engine is off. The message goes away after a second or two, but the beep continues for a few more seconds.
After the beep stops, I'm able to lock the doors normally by pushing the button on the door handle or using the remote. It seems to happen about every other time I park/get out of the car, but it is random. The only pattern I've found is it always happens if I am in a rush. If I turn off the car, open and close the door quickly, it almost always beeps at me. But if I turn off the car, sit inside for a few extra seconds and THEN get out, it seems to be fine. What could be causing this?
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Vehicle: 2013 Hyundai GLS @ 36k miles.
When my vehicle is stopped or in motion at low speed, if I turn the steering wheel, I hear a knocking out at the sound towards the front of the vehicle. How concern should I be?
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2011 Hyundai sonata. My issues is that there seems to be a snapping/brushing noise when turn my wheel either left or right within under 5 MPH. Some people at work stated it could be the CV bolt? Not sure if that is correct, or something else. I am 117K miles, never have replaced anything suspension related.
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Today I went out to crank my Sonata SE 2.4. Pressing the ignition button only got me a buzzing and no turning of the engine. We've been out of the country for 2 weeks and the car has been in the garage since then. I have a portable battery booster that I attached to the battery and the car started normally. I drove it for around thirty minutes and switched it off in my driveway. Immediately tried to restart and it would not start. Boosted again and headed to Auto Zone to have the battery tested. Battery tested bad so I had it replaced. The car started immediately so I turned it off and tried to restart as a precaution. No go.... boosted again and cranked fine. The new battery tested out good so we decided that maybe the charge could be low or? maybe we just needed to run it some on the interstate.
I now had a cel on. So we get out onto the interstate and drive about two miles and the engine looses power, limp mode ?. Pull to the side of the road and RPM's at only 1500 with the accelerator to the floor. I was afraid to restart the engine that it would possibly not restart and I'd have to be towed.
Luckily, we were about two miles from the Hyundai dealership so we limped there at 20 MPH. The car is at the dealership now being diagnosed.
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I have replaced the battery, a fuse and the car will not start in park. When I shift in to neutral the car will start.
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'12 GLS with 45k on the odo. Keyed ignition, not a push button.
Did a 45000 mile recommended service, oil change with full synthetic, and throttle body service (cleanout) On Friday (July 3).
Drove it 70 miles on Saturday (July 4) with no problems...35 miles, sat for 10 hours, drive 35 more. 85 degrees outside and 60% humidity.
Drove it today (July 5) for ten miles, sat for 2 hours and 30 minutes. 87 degrees outside and 50% humidity.
Attempted to start after the 2.5 hours off. Starter cranked, but motor never caught and started. Tried five times. Nice crank (battery strong). Motor Still didn't catch. Third time motor almost caught, but it sputtered out.
Sixth time I let it crank for 7 seconds and it finally caught and started. CEL illuminated and stayed on all the way to the dealer (<1 mile from where I was) where left it for Monday diagnostics.
Spark should have been good.
Fuel and air were the unknown. TB service on Friday might make air the culprit. I also saw the high pressure fuel pump issue people reported. Not happy about having to possibly shell out 800-1100 for that! Also read about the oil starvation on the bearings, but the car exhibited no oil starvation symptoms (rattle, loss of power, etc).
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I was testing parasitic drain on my battery(have a post on that also here) and pulling fuses to determine what the cause was. I figured out it was B+2 fuse, but now after putting all the fuses back, the car won't start.
I depress the brake pedal, but it still states for me to press the brake pedal. I held down the start button and the car starts, but it won't shift out of park. Also, the ESC light won't go away.
Is it just a coincidence that I have a brake switch issue right after I pulled the fuses or did I screw up somehow? Did I break a fuse or something? I also checked the obd error codes, and didn't have any new ones.
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The first time I replaced a battery. It has run flawlessly until now. (Approx 57,000 miles) It is equipped with a push button start. FOB works fine to unlock doors, etc. I depressed the brake pedal and pushed the start button. Instrument panel lit up as normal, but there was no cranking. Nav comes on. Everything "looks" fine, but there is no engine activity.
I tried: I read a post where the person "rocked" the car back and forth several times and it ultimately started. Simple and immediate enough to try. No luck. A jump start. It didn't. Held start button for 30 seconds then attempted to start. No go. Did same with foot on brake.
Inserted FOB into the "smart key holder" inside the center console and attempted to start. Nada - Attempted this because for one brief second during jumping process, panel flashed a message saying FOB not recognized then went away. Car responds to FOB just fine).
Inserted FOB in center console again following the instructions in this post. Didn't work. The brake pedal is solid. I read this is most likely because vacuum pressure did not build when the engine did not run.
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2011 Hyundai sonata ltd with 79k. Started having starter issue since yesterday. the engine will crank only just little and will not start. after few tries it may sometimes start normally.
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Charged battery, tried adding my 100amp charger "jump" mode on when starting, took off ground and ground down to metal where it attaches, cleaned all the contacts, tried a known good battery. Yet the car still clicked when trying to start it. I removed the starter and wired it with appropriate gauged wire, and had someone turn the key while I held the starter and it operated as it should, no clicking. What should I try next before I re-install the starter, so I don't end up having the system clicking like there is a dead battery again? Because I certainly didn't fix anything.
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