Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Intermittent Power Loss When Entering Moving Traffic From A Side Street Or Driveway
Mar 21, 2014
I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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2011 BMW 335i.
Driving 40mph, smoothly at consistent speed, in middle lane of 3 lane road during morning rush hour, no stops or turns. I had been driving for about 10-15 minutes after car had been in garage the night before. Attempted small acceleration, car did not respond, engine had turned off unclear if before or at time of attempted acceleration. Power steering was off. I put on my hazards, slowly drifted to stop, put car in park, attempted restart, first attempt failed, waited 15 seconds and second attempt successful.
For next 3 hours, the engine had a rhythmic grinding sound which then stopped. Fuel tank had been filled the day before and was not near empty. Took to dealer, they have not been able to replicate event or find anything to fix. They replaced camshaft bolts because of a recall but reported nothing faulty with the originals. They are saying there is nothing wrong with the car. Do I take it back and risk the same thing happening or buy a new car? The car has 44,000 miles.
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When the car is in a situation where there is a twisting force, such as entering an inclined driveway from an angle, a loud POP is sometimes heard from the rear of the car. The intensity of the POP varies dependent on speed and angle of incline, higher speed/greater incline/decline produce a louder POP.
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I have had this error come up in the past (P0441) and have reset it. At one point I replaced the purge flow valve.
Lately, when I'm running at expressway speeds I have no issue. When I get off the expressway and get into stop & go local street traffic, the error will appear again, sometimes. Recently, in the past 3 weeks it has done this 2 times in this stop and go driving scenario..
I've been keeping the gas tank above 1/4 tank, to make sure pressure stays up in that system. Even passed the emissions test where they clamp the gas gap with their machine to make sure it's holding pressure. What could be going on with my 1999 V6 passat?
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My car shifted wrong (i don't know how since it is automatic) and heard a loud knocking noises and lost power and then she shut down and turned off. called Hyundai assurance and they towed it to the nearest dealership since my dealership is an hour and a half away from my school. I don't know how this happened. I tried to crank it back up. heard a loud squeal maybe water pump? and she turns on but the rpms wouldn't go past 500 rpms well there she goes.
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My son is primary driver of our 2011 Limited with push-button start. He phoned me a few minutes ago to tell me he was driving--everything normal-- when there was suddenly a complete loss of power, mechanical and electrical (engine died, dash lights out, nav screen dark, etc.). There was no advance warning of any kind.
The power loss was total but brief, two or three seconds, and then reactivated on its own. My son said he pulled off the road into a parking area, stopped the engine, waited a few seconds and then restarted and is on his way home with everything working normally so far.
First issue with the Sonata--61k miles ....
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I have 2004 Super Duty with a noise in the front end when I hit bumps or backing out or entering a driveway with a lip. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel but I feel it on the floor board with my feet? Where to begin?
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I recently (July 2016) bought a 2012 2.0T Limited with 14K miles. Got an awesome deal on it and really love the car. About two months ago the car had a total loss of power/boost. I took it into the dealer and they performed a wastegate actuator adjustment (something I will be doing on my own now if it becomes a problem again). Now at about 21k miles I'm having a different issue. Here is what's happening:
Accelerating from a stop the car feels as if it's falling out of gear intermittently. Once it happens and I press the gas more/floor it, the car doesn't respond. If I let off the gas and then press it again, the car will then start to accelerate again. On the highway cruising at 70ish, the same thing happens and it even oscillates with constant throttle like its down/up shifting. The ESC light came after a 20 mile highway trip of this oscillation. No CEL. When I got off the freeway, the navigation screen said there may be a problem and I should press the bluelink button.
When this is happening the cruise control either doesn't work at all or the "cruise" light will come on but I can't set a speed. Tonight I noticed in the rear view mirror that the brake light stays on or even flutters after I brake which corresponds to when the cruise is or isnt working as well as when the car intermittently falls out of gear/oscillates falling out of gear with constant throttle. If I notice the brake light is on without actually braking, I can take my foot and pull the brake pedal towards me which turns off the brake light and then the car seems to work correctly as well as the cruise control. The car is driveable but definitely something is wrong.
I should mention that I checked the voltage for the wastegate actuator and it is 3.97v which I believe is within tolerance. All of these issues with no CEL.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 40K kilometres that's making a "clunk" every time I enter a driveway on uneven path. The mechanic that changes my tires confirmed that it's the right front lower ball joint. It's either loose or worn? Are the ball joints covered under Hyundai's warranty? Can I get this repaired free of charge?
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I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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My Sonata suddenly started having front right brake sticking issue. It will happen only after an extended distance of frequent drive & stop. Something like Houston daily ride. So, after the traffic jam mysteriously clear and you can get some speed, starting at 40MPH a high grinding noise from the front (Ceramic brake pads) and the car feels very heavy. The sticking phenomenon will disappear if you wait a little with avoiding using the brakes.
I am going to check it today. So far I know that the sliding pins are not the issue. I recently cleaned them and lubricated them. The front right brake will get hot while the left are just in normal temperature. The brake pedal is getting higher while the sticking is about to happen and happening.
My first guess is the Flexible brake hose. Or maybe a bad caliper. I think if the master cylinder was the issue, I might have more than one sticking brake wheel. I don't know how common it is to have a bad ABS unit causing this issue. It feels really like a build up pressure caused by a valve effect of interior deteriorated brake hose.
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Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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So today I got in the car and started to drive off and noticed a squeal coming from the front passenger tire while the vehicle is moving forward. This is the first time I've heard this noise and it is very annoying and loud.
Details on the car:
2011 Sonata Limited (not turbo)
Roughly 34700
I purchased it used with 28K on it in May of this year
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So for a couple months now, my ride has been making some weird noises.
When I start the car up after anything longer than a couple hours of use, it sounds as if I have a piece of loose metal banging/moving around. I hear it sporadically on shifting through the gears, and when I'm at a stop.
Car has been in to the dealer three times, and I took the foreman on a test drive...of course it wouldn't make the sound at all.
I took a look under the hood today and noticed that the coolant level is low...filling it back up tomorrow. That got me thinking about the transmission fluid....I looked and looked, and can't find the transmission dipstick anywhere.
Any clue where I can find some way to check the level?
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer, on a few occasions i have parked my car in my driveway which is level the next morning i come out and the car has moved about 4 foot. Its an automatic, what would cos this to happen with nobody in the car and it's in park???
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My excursion suddenly lost power after sitting in a long traffic jam. I have a scan gauge II set up and didn't see any signs of over heating however when I went to accelerate back up to highway speed my motor revved up to 3000 rpm and just lost power I ended creeping on the side of the road at about 15 mph and barely maintaining that. The motor was not willing to revv up. I reached a spot to pull over and shut it down for about 15 minutes and started back up and drove off with no noticable issues. I have 211,000 miles on this motor and I am going to change my coil packs, I think they have been there since the truck was sold new....I changed four of them to address a miss and have six left, I will also be changing my fuel filter. We are about to pull our camper across country....about 1400 miles..
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1st major problem on my 72,000 mile 2011 F350 is an oil leak that has gotten worse in a short time.. I've been putting it off as I can't be without my truck as I use it for my business but I have to take it in as its leaking pretty bad and leaving its mark on every driveway I pull into,going to take it in the morning to get diagnosed,going to have the exhaust smell in cab during regen looked at also as its been a problem for sometime time now but have just have delt with it till now. Here is a pic of the leak...
Where it may be coming from? Looks like its coming from the top side somewhere..
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I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
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I have been getting no throttle response intermittently. I will be driving usually at lower speeds and all of a sudden the engine with slow down and there will be no response to the throttle pedal. It will come back quickly. Also the ESC light sometimes comes on and yesterday I could not set the cruise control. Today it had this problem but the ESC light was off and cruise control worked.
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This has happened to me twice in the last month including this morning. When I turn the key the engine turns over normally but will not start.
This morning I noticed that the instrument panel indicator lights flash as the motor is cranking also the radio that I had left on did not come on while cranking.
I try a couple things with the key fob alarm and hook up a light weight battery charger to the battery. Then when I try again it starts.
I do not think it is the battery as it has plenty of power and I only hooked up the charger because I heard the cranking slow down as I tried several time to start it. Which I think is normal.
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