Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Intermittent Check Engine Light
Nov 12, 2016
Check engine light on and off. Code shows turbo boost throttle position sensor is the problem. I can't find a part with that name.
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Nov 12, 2016
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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Intermittent Check Engine Light - Code P0011
I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
View 36 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Check Engine Warning Light Came On
My 'check engine' warning light just came on after only 12,000 km on my 2011 GLS. What emission control part would be the first to fail? I ran my 06 Sonata 100,000 km+ and never saw any warning lights! And no, it's not a loose gas cap!
View 13 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: New Battery And Check Engine Light Is On
Got a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
View 4 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Check Engine Light Flashed And Stayed On Until Lay Off The Gas
I got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Check Engine Light Code P0449
4 years ago, I also had a check engine light. I brought the car to a mechanic and he just cleaned the parts and the engine light went away. I was still under warranty then. Below is my original post:
Removing Canister Close Valve and Fuel Filter
Today, I have a P0449 code. Something is clogged again. I am now out of warranty because the Canadian emissions warranty isn't as good as the ones in the US. The gas pump keeps shutting off when I pour gas.
What the most likely culprit is? I may try to replace the part myself if is easy enough.
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Check Engine Light On (Fault P0741)
I driving 2011 Sonata. Check engine light was ON while driving, which are fault P0741, TORQUE CON CLUTH ABNORMAL. The light sometimes ON, and sometime will OFF while driving, is it any problem?
View 5 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Cylinder Misfiring Causing Bad Vibration And Check Engine Light
While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Check Light Code, P0711 / Transmission Shift Occasionally
I own a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. Two months ago I realized that my transmission shift occasionally while I am driving, especially when the weather is cold and I park my vehicle for more than one day. Then my engine check light came, after two days it went off. I went to the dealership and ask for a multi-point inspection (without telling the inspector the transmission problem), they recommend a transmission fluid flush, then I went to an auto part shop to ask for reading engine check light code, they see P0711. After researches online, I understand this code is about transmission fluid or transmission fluid sensor defect.
My question is that, would a dirty transmission fluid cause the P0711 code, as some people stated online ?
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Check Engine Light - Fuel Door Constantly Pops Open By Itself
I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 20k+ miles on it. Purchased it about a week ago & had no issues until about now. About an hour ago, my check engine light came on & air from the driver side right vent started blowing even though the fan is off. What the issue might be? Also, my fuel door constantly pops open by itself. While driving, when I close my doors, and when I close my trunk it always pops open. Is there any way to fix this type of issue?
View 2 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Intermittent Led Signal Light Hyper Flashing
I have installed switchback led signal lights. The right side only turn signal lights will hyper flash until I have driven 10-15mins. and then they operate normally. The guys who installed the system went to a better resistor and nothing changed. My installer says he has never seen this issue before. The driver's side functions properly. both sides have always had resistors.
View 3 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Check Engine Codes P0014 And P0011
Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
Lexus LS 2007+ :: Intermittent Check Engine / VSC Light Comes After Getting Gas
For the past few months, I've had a weird intermittent check engine/VSC light problem. I've noticed that it comes after getting gas...and sometimes goes away after getting gas. I've jiggered the gas cap to be sure it's tight. Is it possible that this is something as simple as the seal in the cap gone bad?
View 4 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Intermittent Check Engine Light
Our 2008 with 110,000 mi is intermittently displaying CEL. First appeared about 3 wks ago. I took gas cap off and then put it back on and let car sit overnight. Next day and for 10 days no CEL. Then one mornng, at first start, CEL reappeared. Repeated gas cap process that night. CEL disappeared for 6 days. Then CEL came on in middle of day after car had been started and stopped 3 times. Repeated gas cap process that evening with no success. Did the gas cap thing one more time, last night, and today the CEL is off. First time CEL came on was right after a fill-up. Subsequent CEL's have had no relationship to refueling. Car has been nearly flawless for 68 months. Engine coolant pump changed @ 75k. Aux batt changed 24 mo ago.
View 8 RepliesSubaru - Liberty :: Can't Go Faster Than 15 Kms - Intermittent Check Engine Light?
So recently i knowingly purchased a car with a blown head gasket. Got it fixed at the mechanics and also changed the timing belt / serviced the car. The car also had intermittent check engine light however the mechanic said it was just the O2 sensor or something and it wasn't worth fixing ($300 to replace it).
Now the car (automatic subaru liberty) drove fine for the last two weeks but my brother took it out to go to the snow and on the return trip the car starting to emit loud clunking sounds from the engine, the brake system warning light also came on and power was reduced and my brother pulled over, and checked it out. The car starts, but its only limited to around 15km even when flooring the car. The car free revs in neutral but emits a cracking sound.
Do you think the transmission shit itself? On cold mornings the car would take about 1-2 seconds to change engage drive / reverse.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 - Intermittent Check Engine Light
2005 Golf TDI... I'm due for a smog check, and of course, in the last few weeks I've been getting some check engine lights intermittently. I'd rather take care of the problem before trying to smog. Anyway, here are the codes.
Confirmed
P0674 - Cylinder 4 glow plug circuit/open
P0673 - Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit/open
Pending
P0101 - Mass or Volume air flow "A" circuit range/performance
To be honest, I haven't learned all that much about my Golf TDI. Just normal maintenance. So, I don't know where to start.
Caravan/Voyager :: 2002 - Check Engine Light On / Intermittent Misfire
I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
Prius (2004-09) :: Intermittent No Start - Check Engine Light / VSC And Triangle On
So let's start with this. A week ago my dad went to start his car after going to the store. I wasn't there so can't say exactly what happened but when I got there the car would basically go into accessory mode with check engine light VSC and triangle on. Also displayed problem on the screen. I checked 12v battery with just the radio on (one button press with foot off brake) and it only showed 12.0 volts. So I hooked our jump box directly to the battery and it still wouldn't start. I scanned it for error codes and it showed nothing but I could erase them and the lights went off so probably codes from one of the hybrid computers I can't read but the car still wouldn't ready. I unhooked the 12v for about 30 second seconds and the car started fine without the jump box hooked up.
At this point I don't have any codes and with nothing to go off of I'm at a loss. We drive it 8 miles back to our shop and it drove normally with no errors. Once it was back in the shop after turning the car on and off 10 times or so still no errors. On the last time it was in ready mode and the errors came back on, still with no codes I could read. His 12v optima was still under warranty so we got it exchanged for free even though I was reluctant that it would fix the issue. Well a week went by and all seemed to be fine until yesterday.
My dad had left the car in ready mode for probably 20 minutes and when he got back in it all the lights were on. I will also add that the battery fan was operating normally and not screaming like if there was a traction battery issue. I changed one of the modules in his traction battery about 6 months ago when one failed. Without any codes I don't know where to start with this problem. 2005 with 170k miles....
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Intermittent Stumble With A Check Engine Light
Im getting an intermittent stumble with a check engine light. I have a 1990 Ranger XLT with a 2.3L 5spd. I pulled the codes 32 41 88. I looked them up but Im not sure what to check next. I have done much searching on several sites but havent found much. OBD-1 eludes me.
32(R)EVP - EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
41System Indicates Lean
88 Loss Of Dual Plug Input Control c ..
What does it all mean??? What would you check next?
Ford - Explorer :: Intermittent Check Engine Light - P0193 Code
My 2007 Explorer (XLT, V6 4.0L, 4WD, 175k miles) has been experiencing a check engine light, intermittently, for the past few months. I took it to AutoZone to read the code and they gave me a printout for P0193. For awhile, the light would go off after I filled the tank with gas (usually the next day) and would come again as the level in the tank decreased (typically around 1/4 of a tank). Then about two months ago, the behavior seemed erratic and I could no longer predict when it would appear. During the past couple of weeks I only recall seeing the CEL once (briefly); it's mostly been off. Saturday night I was out driving and it came on again.
About two hours later, my vehicle "conked out" on me. It started hesitating (it's been a very long time since I've run out of gas, but that's what it reminded me of). Fortunately, there was no traffic and I was able to get it off the road but didn't have enough momentum to get it into a defined parking space before it quit. I sat there for awhile pondering my options (not too many since it was the middle of the night and I don't have road service). After about 10 mins or so, I decided to see if I could get it started. It did start and I was able to drive it home (< 10 miles). It's been sitting in the driveway since because I'm afraid of getting stranded if I drive it again. BTW, I was low on gas when it died -- about 50 miles to E (was headed to the gas station when it happened, but took it home instead).
After everything I've read the past few days, I'm expecting that I need to replace at least the fuel filter, the fuel rail pressure sensor and the intake gaskets for the manifold. I am not a mechanic, don't have diagnostic tools, my funds are really limited right now and I'm pretty much on my own to figure this out.
Q1: For those who may have some knowledge about this particular issue, does the intermittent nature of the CEL give any clues to which part(s) might be malfunctioning?
Q2: I found a replacement FRPS made by Bosch on Amazon, significantly cheaper -- is this brand ok or should i stick to Motorcraft?
Q3: Any advice on the manifold gasket replacements (is one brand better than another)?
Q4: Do I really need the special tool to replace the fuel filter?
The questions above are no longer relevant. I'm in the process of "locating" the sensor. I have the air hose and throttle body off. Now I'm looking at the EGR valve. It looks like I will have to disconnect the it from the large pipe beneath it. Will I also need to remove the two smaller bolts that mount it to the manifold cover, or can I remove the cover & valve together? It looks like those little buggers are going to be challenging since they are facing the back of the engine compartment. This is rather slow-going for me, but there's no turning back now.
Dodge - Dakota :: 2005 V8 - Intermittent Check Engine Light Code P0420
My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?