Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Hyundai Won't Start - No Electrical
Jan 18, 2014
My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background : For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very subtle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was subtle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone tried with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background;For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very suttle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was suttle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone try with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
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my buddies just got a used 2015 sonata and I'm wondering who will win or what car has the advantage?
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Having a weird noise coming from the engine of my 2011 Hyundai Sonata , mom is thinking it's the timing chain , is there a way to check the timing chain before taking it into the shop ?
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Which one is better and why?
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Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate—it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting—at which time it acts normally. The braking system is fine.
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I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 65k miles...it has a 2.4 liter motor (4 CYL), auto transmission. The car currently has 205-65-R16 tires on it with a 95H speed rating. They all have worn down to the wear bars so it's time for replacement.
On my previous cars, I've always had Uniroyal Tiger Paw touring tires because I love how they ride. I found the same tire size for my Sonata. However it has a different speed rating...95T.
The only difference is the letter "T".
EDIT: It currently has Nexen N5000 tires and I bought the car with these tires already on....crappy tires...worn down in only 30k miles.
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I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata with about 100,000 miles. Recently, it started doing funny things when I tried to start it. It would take a few tries, sometimes, or it might start immediately- very unpredictable. Someone suggested I try starting it in neutral, so I did that. It seemed to work for awhile, so the idea was maybe it was a switch in the car that can go funny and make it so the car won't start in park. Switch replaced, so everything's fine, right? No, still not starting on the first try. I took it to a car parts store to get the battery tested. The guy said, the battery is shot and is definitely the problem (he also said the starter was okay and he thinks alternator is also okay).
So I bought a brand new battery and had it put in... STILL NOT STARTING! Sometimes it will start in neutral, sometimes in park. It does not seem dependent on the temperature, the amount of time it's been since it was last started, or anything else that I can figure. However, if it is hooked up to a jump start, it will start immediately with no problem, in park. New switch, new battery. Is it likely the alternator? I'm trying to figure out how big of a hit this might be to my checking account. Other than this problem, the car runs perfectly. I'm confused that people keep diagnosing a problem and it still doesn't work. And that I might have replaced parts that weren't broken to begin with.
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata. The car sometimes and randomly won't 'turn-over'. I get a check-engine light but this may go away, also. I've gotten stuck at random locations and if I wait maybe 10-15 minutes, the car sometimes starts again.
The worst incident was when the car started but would not go past 10-15mph.
I've taken the car to a garage and they've checked the computer and it seems to indicate a throttle issue. They cleaned it and the car was fine for a couple of weeks, but now having similar incidents where it randomly won't start.
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2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
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When I started the car the check engine light came on. Since there had been a lot of rain recently, I thought that perhaps it was an electrical malfunction since the performance of the car did not seem to be affected. I was only a few miles from home and going at a constant speed on the highway. When I slowed down to get off at my exit I noticed that the car wasn't getting up to gear with the same power as it had been. By the time I had to slow down for five or six stop signs, the car was having a lot of trouble getting up to speed, and at the stop sign before my drive way, it stalled and wouldn't start (although it always sounds like it's just about to turn over). The mechanic is suggesting an engine flush and tune up, but both seem a little excessive, especially the engine flush.
2005 Hyundai Sonata (manual transmission)....
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I've stumped the local dealership and their Hyundai Tech Line as well. This is a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 50k miles. Also this is my first winter with it so I can't tell you if it's a new issue or if it's always happened in the "cold". This is Northern California so the cold nights are about as low as 30.
On a cold start, after 20-30 minutes the heater sputters out and the lights on the control unit go out. Sometimes it goes back on if I continue driving for 5-15 more minutes; another way for it to go on again is to turn the car off and start it again. The final way to turn it back on (which was discovered the last time it was in the shop) is to gently begin to start the car again (while it's on) and just that slight movement in the ignition cylinder turns it back on.
The sputtering out doesn't actually turn it off completely, just the lights, buttons and knobs stop responding and the heat mostly goes off.
The control unit has been replaced, plugs have been tightened and the ignition cylinder has been replaced.
They've road tested it 3 times and I'm a little tired of having to get a rental car as they claim to not be able to start a new case with Hyundai Tech Line until they have my car.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and have had trouble getting it started. A few days ago it kept turning but wouldn't start. I tried jumping it and nothing. Then it randomly turned on. I thought it was the battery and switched that out today but now it won't start at all. Sounds like it's trying to and then has a noise that keeps going for about 10 seconds after . I've seen other posts about issues with the 2.4L engines and am wondering if I'm having the same problem. I have a video for it here: [URL] .....
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I have replaced the battery, a fuse and the car will not start in park. When I shift in to neutral the car will start.
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'12 GLS with 45k on the odo. Keyed ignition, not a push button.
Did a 45000 mile recommended service, oil change with full synthetic, and throttle body service (cleanout) On Friday (July 3).
Drove it 70 miles on Saturday (July 4) with no problems...35 miles, sat for 10 hours, drive 35 more. 85 degrees outside and 60% humidity.
Drove it today (July 5) for ten miles, sat for 2 hours and 30 minutes. 87 degrees outside and 50% humidity.
Attempted to start after the 2.5 hours off. Starter cranked, but motor never caught and started. Tried five times. Nice crank (battery strong). Motor Still didn't catch. Third time motor almost caught, but it sputtered out.
Sixth time I let it crank for 7 seconds and it finally caught and started. CEL illuminated and stayed on all the way to the dealer (<1 mile from where I was) where left it for Monday diagnostics.
Spark should have been good.
Fuel and air were the unknown. TB service on Friday might make air the culprit. I also saw the high pressure fuel pump issue people reported. Not happy about having to possibly shell out 800-1100 for that! Also read about the oil starvation on the bearings, but the car exhibited no oil starvation symptoms (rattle, loss of power, etc).
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I was testing parasitic drain on my battery(have a post on that also here) and pulling fuses to determine what the cause was. I figured out it was B+2 fuse, but now after putting all the fuses back, the car won't start.
I depress the brake pedal, but it still states for me to press the brake pedal. I held down the start button and the car starts, but it won't shift out of park. Also, the ESC light won't go away.
Is it just a coincidence that I have a brake switch issue right after I pulled the fuses or did I screw up somehow? Did I break a fuse or something? I also checked the obd error codes, and didn't have any new ones.
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The first time I replaced a battery. It has run flawlessly until now. (Approx 57,000 miles) It is equipped with a push button start. FOB works fine to unlock doors, etc. I depressed the brake pedal and pushed the start button. Instrument panel lit up as normal, but there was no cranking. Nav comes on. Everything "looks" fine, but there is no engine activity.
I tried: I read a post where the person "rocked" the car back and forth several times and it ultimately started. Simple and immediate enough to try. No luck. A jump start. It didn't. Held start button for 30 seconds then attempted to start. No go. Did same with foot on brake.
Inserted FOB into the "smart key holder" inside the center console and attempted to start. Nada - Attempted this because for one brief second during jumping process, panel flashed a message saying FOB not recognized then went away. Car responds to FOB just fine).
Inserted FOB in center console again following the instructions in this post. Didn't work. The brake pedal is solid. I read this is most likely because vacuum pressure did not build when the engine did not run.
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2011 Hyundai sonata ltd with 79k. Started having starter issue since yesterday. the engine will crank only just little and will not start. after few tries it may sometimes start normally.
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