Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: How To Program New Remote
Jan 11, 2013
We lost one of the cars remotes, I found online few sellers that sell remote (exact as well as cheaper simpler ones). Is there a way to program it at home without the paid support of the dealer ....
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I just bought a used 2009 Camry, which has a remote starter installed, but my key will not operate it. From what I understand, the original owner lost the key that was programmed to work with it, and the replacement key does not. I have four keys: one is entirely metal, one is black plastic with no logo, one is black plastic with Toyota logo, and the last one has all the buttons which pop the trunk, and remotely lock and unlock the vehicle. I tried using the key with all the buttons to remotely start the car, but nothing happens.
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How do i program my keyless entry remote to my 99 grand am?!?
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I have a 200 GMC Jimmy SLE and I am trying to program the new FOD key for it. I followed the listed instructions here [URL] .... and here [URL] ..... but it will not enter program mode.
So, is there another method to try to get it into program mode? I have looked here and else but the only other instructions has to do with pre 2000 series blazers.
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I installed a factory remote start system on my 2011 sonata. the car will start run for a few seconds then shut off and the start sequence begins again this happens over and over until I unlock the door and add pressure to the brake pedal.
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Remote App will not turn engine off, just start it. How Dumb is this to design car to remote start but Not Remote Turn Off???
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I bought my 2013 Sonata GLS back in October w/ 15k miles on it. For Christmas, I got an OEM Hyundai remote start (part # 3S056-ADU02). I took it to a local parts shop to get it installed. Turns out, I needed the jumper harness so I ordered that and they installed it today.
Now for the bad part - everything is installed, and the remote works fine. However, when I go to start the car, it stays started for 2 seconds, beeps, and cuts off and tries several times before giving up. The audio shop said to take it to the dealer to get it programmed, but I took it there and they said it would be $150 to program it. BUT they don't know if that's the problem or not. I've went through the forums and I see nothing about programming. I have found posts with problems similar to mine, but I can't find an answer. Why would it need programmed if everything else on the remote works? How can I make it stay started?
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New owner of a used 2012 corolla. I only have one remote key. After digging through google and ebay. I brought a set of new remote keys with the known warning that I have to take it to the dealer for programming.
What tools to get to have this program by myself. It just cost too much over $150 from dealer just to program a key not counting over $250 dollar for the key itself.
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I purchased a NEW 2008 Hyundai Keyless Remote on the internet. It didn't come with programming instructions. How to program this remote.
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2013 Sonata Limited. I requested that a remote starter be added to a vehicle with keyless ignition. They mentioned that it can't be done, as I would need an extra keyfob that would sit inside the car at all times, and that if I leave the car unlocked, anyone could get in, start it, and drive off with it. That seemed ridiculous to me, so I called another dealer to ask and got essentially the same answer, saying it was not available yet for keyless ignitions.
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2011 all was fine until a couple days ago when I lock the doors using the remote I hear it click then in 20 minutes later the lights are blinking on and off. I use the remote to lock the doors again and the same thing happens. I replaced the battery in the remote , I also had the battery in the car checked. What could be triggering the lights to keep blinking ?
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I have a 2003 Camry I4. My RKE stopped working. First I checked the battery in the remote, it reads 3v like it should. I searched and found how to reprogram the the receiver, so I tried that. I did the door and key dance and got to where when you pull the key out and the door locks lock then unlock. I try pushing the lock and unlock button, then just the lock button as per the instructions and I get nothing. Supposed to get one cycle of the locks if it works and tow cycles if it doesn't. I get neither of those, nothing happens. So I buy a new remote off of eBay (brand new, never used, OEM remote). I try the reprogram door dance again and get the same results. The battery in the new one reads 3v like it should as well. So I go off to a junk yard to replace the receiver door controller, I found one and replaced it and I get the same exact results.
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Ok on Sunday I washed my car, dried it including opening the hood and trunk as I normally do. On Monday morning I pushed my remote twice like normal and started to walk away but then i noticed I heard no horn. So I hit the lock button again twice in a row this time looking at the car and this time I noticed that the lights didn't flash either, however I could hear the locks lock. Just to make sure I tried to open the doors and they were locked.
So today I got out the manual and looked in section 4/12 - 4/18. It says that one lock button pressed lights flash, within 4 seconds hit again and lights flash and horn will honk once. I never saw anything about deactivation of this feature... So Just to make sure i went around and opened all doors, trunk and hood, then closed them all. I tried again to arm the alarm, hit the lock button twice and again no horn honk or flashing lights. So I finally opened up the hood and wanted to see if the hood pressure switch was maybe out of alignment. looked fine then i held it down and pressed the lock button on the remote, and BAM the lights flashed, pressed it again and lights flashed and horn honked once. Held it down for about 20-25 seconds till i saw the alarm light start flashing released it and the alarm set off. Next I closed the hood tried again, but once again the lights didn't flash and no horn....
Started looking at the top of the hood where the pressure switch would touch touch when closed, and noticed that it looks like maybe I am missing a rubber stopper on the hood that presses the switch, maybe when i was drying under the hood I knocked it off? Or maybe my pressure switch needs to be adjusted?
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Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here?
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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For what it's worth I found a gent locally who has the Vag-Com setup on his laptop and we were able to get the windows and sunroof programmed to open and close when holding the lock/unlock buttons on the remote.
The article we followed is here: [URL] .....
He had to do this the long way with the long code as my '11 Tiguan wouldn't take the programming from the adaptation menu. A couple of other items to note is that the doors did have to be unlocked for the Vag-Com to be able to read the Central Electronics section of the ECU. When they were locked the software on his laptop alternated between saying too many connections and timing out. Also we had to check then uncheck the Comport Opening Only for Drivers Door Active to get all of the windows to open and close...
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I have an 2009 3.3L V6 Sonata with just over 50k miles on it. Just under a week ago what seems like about half of the electronics quit working.
Here is a list of all things i could think of checking to see if they work..
Not working: power windows (up and down), power locks (Lock and unlock), trunk release, wipers on mist or intermittent, automatic headlight setting, tail lights.
Working: Sunroof, turn singles, headlights, brights, brake lights, power mirrors, radio, AC, fan, wipers, windshield washer, Gas cap cover release
Given that all the functions of the remote are not working i don't know if that works either.
I have tried checking all the related fuses, checking the relays, disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and have had no success finding an issue. What else to check?
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I have a 2006 Sonata. The trunk will not open with remote, latch or key. What do I do? There isnt a vallet switch.
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I have Sonata 06 3.3L V6, vacuum getting confirmed code p0171 system too lean bank 1,and pending faults are both lean and rich on both banks and also at idle. i check vacuum leaks but no luck, one thing I observed when I drove car at high speed only 3000 rpm or above LTFT 1 corrected to 0. I am using torque app.
I can not open my trunk through remote key, it is opening with driver side switch, trunk lid latch is unlocked position, remote key is working fine with doors.?
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Whenever it is really cold, o degrees or colder and i use my remote starter, my 2011 Prius starts for about 1-2 seconds and then shuts down. If go into the car and manually start it stays running with no problems. yesterday i tried remote starting it after about 5 hours sitting in -15 degree temperatures and it worked fine but that was after i already manually started it in the morning cause the remote starter didn't work. Why this is happening? it goes against the whole purpose of having a remote starter.
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Bought the 2011 F150 Lariat used, no window sticker shows online, got a build printout from the Ford parts man. According to the build, it says "with remote srart".
Got one key and separate fob with the truck....just a black key, not the remote key. Had a second black key made at dealers expense and kept one remote from the trade in. All works well but.....Would like to have the remote start functional.
Dealer says buy the key, $140, plus cut and program. Lock shop says $190 for it all.
My question is if I buy the key and have it cut, can I program it properly in the truck....including remote start.....since I have two regular coded keys?
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