Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: How To Turn Off Battery Discharge Warning Sound
Apr 24, 2012
I just brought home a shinny new 2012 Hyundai Sonata Limited with Nav and it's awesome! Just discovered something though...
When the engin is off and I am running the radio I get the Battery Discharge Warning pop up on the Nav screen accompanied by a beep. It goes off every minute or so.
This is going to be annoying next time I go to the drive in that we like to frequent as we need to play the audio on the FM radio with the car turned off.
How I can turn this off or disable the sounds at least?
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The stereo will power off after 10mins or so (even if the ignition button is on ACC or Power position), and the radio screen shows a battery discharge warning (this goes on before the power gets cut off).
Is there a way to keep the stereo power on even with the engine off? The ignition button is already on ACC or Power (without engine on) and the system still cuts off the power after 10mins or so...
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I got the Battery discharge warning massage today, I was listening to xm in the car for about 5 minutes on engine set to ACC and the Battery discharge warning massage came on and tells me to run system while the engine is running. Am I not suppose to be on ACC if I just want to listen to music?
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I've noticed that the display shows the Battery Discharge warning while the vehicle is running. I notice it while reversing, because - well, I'm watching the image from the camera. The message goes away in a few seconds and the regular "look around you" advice appears. It doesn't happen every time nor does it follow a change in weather. Just random occurrences.
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I replaced a post-cat O2 sensor because of a code that came up last week. We didn't reset the ECU, but after driving it a couple days the check engine light went out. 3-4 days of driving and everything looked good.
Today the check engine light came on again and autozone read the code as:
P0136 - heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2 (HO2S12) sensor range/performance condition
Explanation Open circuit or short circuit condition
Probable Cause
Poor electrical connection
check other service codes
Faulty Bank 1 Sensor 2.
Anyway, I thought it might be because we didn't reset ECU and some kind of calibration might be off in the system. So, I unplugged the battery in an attempt to let it discharge and reset ECU. When I connected the battery back up.... ALL THE FREAKIN LIGHTS ARE NOW ON THE DASH. Check engine... traction control.... tire pressure.... everything.
Golf TDI 2012
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I was checking the air filter today, when I went to turn off the engine it sounds weird , check in the video on second number 6...
here is the link.. [URL] ....
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Youtube video below, listen to the sound at 0.09 sec, 0.14sec and 0.20sec (ignore rest of the sounds they are from golf balls that I have in the bottle holders). When i turn the steering to the extreme right i hear this sound like pulling a metal. What is the issue and how serious is the problem.
I have 74,000 miles on it. 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L ...
YouTube ...
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My car is eating up battery power: only when outside is cold, below 10 C,something very strange, in summer days there is no battery draining, my climate stays adjusted at 19 C, but now is very cold and I make it 25 C,and then it is the mystery: the battery is draining for 2-3 hours below 10V?
I made some tricks:
-when the car i turned off while climate is set to 25C(or above 24C)-the battery is draining very fast, second battery relay switches on and I can turn the ignition on only with the key in!
-when the car is turned off while the climate is set to 18C(or below 24C) the battery drain is very small???
So does something turn on while the car is locked,or something is trying to keep any temperature inside? I double checked if AUX heating is off,and it is off,I don't have parking heater or anything. Another thing I notice is when I turn on the rear seats climatronic above 24C the voltmeter goes from 14V to 13V and stays there for a 5-10 min,if I turn off the rear seats climatronic or set it below 24V the voltmeter gets back to 14V?
Whats is happening with the car?
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Very occasionally and usually from a cold start I get a rapid discharge of the battery.
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2006 Prius with 130k miles. I'm thinking that my HV battery has slowly deteriorated to the point where it's causing drivability issues, and now needs to be replaced.
The main symptoms I'm experiencing are rapid charge/discharge according to the MFD and significant loss of power once the battery has discharged to one bar. I realize the latter is "normal," but the problem is that I'm seeing one bar frequently now. Hill climbs that my car used to do with no problem and would drain the SOC to 2-3 bars now cause the battery to drain to 1 bar about half-way up and then loss of speed from 65 mph to 45 mph by the time I reach the top. Descending hills, it's not unusual to see the SOC go from 2 bars to 7-8 bars within 30 seconds or so.
I'm not seeing any error lights, and my (cheap) code reader does not report any logged DTCs.
This seems to be a slow degradation of battery performance, rather than an outright failure. I first noticed that the battery would charge/discharge a little quicker than it had been at about 90k miles. At 99k (before the warranty ended) I took it into the dealer and they tested the HV battery. Block voltages ranged from 16.59 to 16.68 V and resistances ranged from 0.025 to 0.026 ohms. Based on this, they said that the battery was fine, and sent me on my way. Since then, the problem has just gotten worse and worse, though.
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About 20 minutes ago I started up the car and the screen indicated the main battery was pretty much empty. And hour before I had pulled into my driveway and the battery had indicated maybe 70%+. The car was off, nothing like headlights or anything I know of was left on.
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This evening, long after sundown, I found myself stuck on an unmoving expressway with no sign of traffic starting up again (the radio reported a vehicle fire ahead, all lanes blocked). Time dragged on, and I started worrying about the possibility of the headlights draining the 12V battery , assuming that they do indeed run off the 12V battery. In a conventional car this wouldn't have been a problem because the idling engine would have maintained enough battery charge, but of course here the ICE wasn't running. So I turned off the power button to shut down the lights (it's a Canadian car, so there's no way of turning off the headlights with the power button on). That was safe in this particular situation because there were plenty of stopped vehicles behind me. It definitely would not have been safe if mine had been the last vehicle in the lineup.
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My car is an 05 and currently has 219,000 miles. Runs great. Only things I've replaced are the 12 volt battery and the rack and pinion. Replaced the rack because I was trying to drift in the snow and tried to beat the traction control. Needless to say, I lost and hit the curb. Jammed the gear in the left side of the rack. Replaced the rack with a $75 used one and no problems since.
My issue is this, even if my battery is at 6 bars when I first take off, my hybrid battery drains down to even as low as 1 bar. It only got down to 1 once but is hitting 2 regularly. After about 3-10 miles it is back to the regular charge rate. I also noticed the other day with the window down, there was a slight whirring sound, almost like a gear or wheel that is a gummed up and is being slowed down. It also felt like there was resistance, almost like the brake was dragging. After a few miles, as in less than 5, the noise was gone and the car was going along just fine. I've checked the emergency brake to see if it's dragging by applying it and releasing it several times. Does not appear to be the issue. Today I put it in neutral to see if that changed anything but it did like it always does and just coasted along fine with no resistance. My thought is the transmission. I'm wondering if the fluid it so old and broken down that maybe things are gumming up. Either way, I purchased the tranny fluid and will change that out. I know people will probably gasp but I have never changed it. Actually thought because it's a cvt and there is no dipstick to check it, that it doesn't need changed. After reading up yesterday I discovered I was mistaken.
I think that's about it. I'll edit it if I think of something more. Once the battery is back up to charge it accelerates and drives like normal. I do want the car to last so my daughter can use it when I buy the new Prius Prime.
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I have a 2005 with 165K on it. Just within the last 2 weeks, at start up, no matter what level the charge shows on the display, the HV battery will almost fully discharge and then come back up to full charge within a mile of driving. I just replaced the 12V battery thinking this could have been an issue, but it didn't change anything. The car never acted like this since I bought it in 05. When it drops to the discharge level, It running on ICE only, with the typical slower acceleration. What could be going on?
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My 'check engine' warning light just came on after only 12,000 km on my 2011 GLS. What emission control part would be the first to fail? I ran my 06 Sonata 100,000 km+ and never saw any warning lights! And no, it's not a loose gas cap!
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This happened all of a sudden today, engine i think is getting overheated. Like in the image below i see the red warning sign and temperature meter is all the way to "H". Well it keeps fluctuating. So i checked coolant oil and found it was empty so re-filled it beyond 'F' and i think it spilled it and was empty again. So this time i refilled the coolant oil up to 'F' and it stayed. But engine won't stop getting hot(i just did a couple miles after the second refill).
There is another problem with the air condition. IT blows cold air sometimes and normal air sometimes. Looks the compressor is turning off(i am really not sure). IS there a chance of any loose connection at the compressor ? If the freon is empty it should blow normal air continuously but it's not doing that. It keeps switching.
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My 2012 Sonota's message center has just recently come up with this message 'Low washer fluid' which will not go away. The car has a low windshield washer fluid light which is not 'on' (to indicate a low fluid situation). I have filled the reservoir which has done nothing to either status (the low warning message, or the low warning light). It seems to me the both indicators should be saying the same thing but are not. The windshield washers are working just fine. I would like to clear the warning message. Is there a way?
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ABS, Brake, Traction warning lights display and chime sounds when car is started in the mornings. These warnings disappear after car is parked for at least half an hour and then re-started.
They will come on then intermittently while going over a small bump, or sounding horn or turning on wipers. It's like the car is haunted.
So far the dealership has replaced a front speed sensor which solved the problem for a couple of weeks. Yesterday I returned it to the dealership with the same problem and they diagnosed it as a poor battery cable ground and declared it fixed. This morning the lights and chime were back on.
The power steering feels loose & less responsive while lights are activated.
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Over the past 4 months I've had the brake warning light, the one that comes on when you press the parking brake on, come on randomly. In each occasion turning the car off and then starting it back up clears it for the rest of the day. I had it happen 5 months ago, a couple months ago, two weeks ago on new years and then this Saturday and Sunday. Took it to the dealer today and it shows no codes but they managed to get it to come on once. They think its an electrical issue which makes no sense to me.
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2011 Sonata. One Fob not detected. Tried other Fob also not detected. I suspected this was not a coincidence but replaced both batteries anyway. Still key not detected. Cars starts and runs fine using alternate start method by placing fob in console. Where is my problem??
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I had to take my car for Oil Change and I had the driver door lock replaced. I think it is a common problem with the Sonatas to have the driver door power lock issue.
The mechanic was doing it by the book so he decided to disconnect the battery before proceeding. His work is really neat, the door is working again.
After leaving the shop, I noticed the Check engine Light coming on! I have one of these BT modules, so I checked the code and it says: P0106. The car is idling fine, driving fine and there is no noticeable issues what so ever.
I stopped on the side, turned off the engine and with ignition on, I did reset the MIL. But the MIL came back in the second driving cycle. (turn off and then on).
Do you think I need a new MAP sensor? I've seen some Optima's owners with similar problem but I can't find how the problem has ended with them.
Today, I drove to work, 45 Miles with the coded pending. Once arrived to work, I turned off and then on the car and the MIL is on again.
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