I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
Was back east this past weekend seeing some family. Went out with a friend of mine, who has lent me his 2011 DSG GTI APR Stage 1(car currently has 24k miles) many times in the past and it has always performed flawlessly.
We were out the other night and the car hesitated under moderate acceleration between 3500-4500rpm in second and third gears. It almost felt as though it was bucking a little, really odd. The hesitation comes in threes or fours, then moves on in the revs.
lots of hesitation upon acceleration..used fuel cleaner several times doesn't work ..what would cause this hesitation ?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
I have a 2013 Azera. Occasionally, when I accelerate getting into traffic on a highway, the vehicle seems to die down. After I take my foot off the accelerator and accelerate again, the car acts normally. This has occurred several times. I brought it into the dealer twice and they could not find any problem. This is a serious issue, sinc the car could be rammed by oncoming traffic.
I looked at other problem forums, and found a similar problem listed for a Genesis. See quote here: I've just bought my new 2012 Genesis sedan two months ago and have a very annoying hesitation problem when I'm going a under 5 miles/hour then try to accelerate. Nothing happens when I step on the gas for 1-2 seconds. Almost got me into an accident last week trying to pull into traffic. Took it to the dealer and they claim they could not duplicate the problem. That night, leaving the dealer it happened twice!
My 2011 Golf R is tuned to Stage 2+ by Revo and has the following hardware modifications:
1. Miltek turbo-back exhaust
2. Larger Intercooler supplied by Revo
3. Autech (spelling??) HPFP
4. Revo intake system with a foam filter
Lately I have experienced the following problems:
1. Difficulty in starting (sometimes)
2. A kind of "flutter" on starting as engine revs settle to the idle level
3. A noticeable hesitation in taking off from stand-still
4. Jerky acceleration immediately after the car moves from stand-still
5. At any speed, a noticeable hesitation when throttle is applied
All the above issues have happened in normal driving. By that I mean NOT hard driving. I drive my car on DSG "manual" shift mode.
Unfortunately customer service from, both, Revo and the VW dealer in Dubai leaves a lot to be desired. What are the different possible causes of the above problems, I can make sure that Revo / VW go through the full list until the cause(s) are identified.
I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
View 11 RepliesI bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
I just purchased my 2012 Sonata GLS about 2 weeks ago and had 64,000 miles on it. Put a few hundred miles on it around town without issue and then head out on a road trip and put about 750 miles on it when I had the issue. I was going about 60 mph and went to pass a semi and when I stepped on it the car started lurching, crazy valve rattle, and seemed to lose a lot of power. Got back behind the semi and babied it until I found a place to pull over and check it out. It was 2 quarts low on oil so I topped it off and it sounded fine, running smooth and no ticking or anything. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine and eventually got back on the highway and running fine. Pulled over after 100 miles and another 1/2 quart low, topped off.
Another 100 miles and another 1/2 quart, but running great with no issues. 150 miles from home and it happens again when I try to pass with the rattling valves and loss of power and I have to limp it to a gas station and now hearing the valve rattle and chugging on just a slight incline and going 20 mph. Get it towed 150 miles back to the Honda dealer where i purchased it from (long story) and their tech drove it and said he thought it needed a new motor since he barely made it back to the shop. They send it over to my local Hyundai dealer, and all of the sudden it is running great again! I go and drive with the tech and hammering on the throttle and it's running like a champ. I left it for him to drive home and they put 98 miles on it without issue. I picked it up yesterday and they said to bring it back if it happens again, but totally stumped as what it could be. They did start the oil consumption test so I will update when that is done.
I have a 2011 sonata SE w/ 30K miles, the starter failed on me.
The motor would spin but would not engage the gears b/c of the solenoid or the rod malfunctioned.
They towed my car to the dealer for free and it was replaced but I'm concerned because the towing guy told me he towed quite a few Hyundai's b/c of this problem.
My sonata 2012 with 71K km on it just started hard shifting in the morning, after first start. It slamming in D from R very harsh and then shifts all other gears for ~3 minutes harshly (upshift / downshift) and then it gets fine and shifts gears with absolutely no problem throughout the day. Dealer of course was not able to reproduce the problem.
View 37 RepliesI have a 07 Hyundai sonata that has a rattling noise only during acceleration and only at just under 2000 rpm's. I went to a mechanic who checked the heat shields and exhaust only to tell me it was in the transaxel and sent me to a transmission shop. the transmission shop told me they think its the hydraulic lifters, and sent me elsewhere.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 Sonata SE gets a rough idle when my AC is turned on, and sometimes it produces a whirring noise as I'm driving in low gears. It all goes completely away if I turn my AC off. I'm afraid my AC might go out at an inopportune time. What could it be?
View 12 Replies2 days ago, and again twice today, I have had an issue when I need to change lanes and speed up, but when I hit the gas pedal (not flooring it, but significant pressure) I have had the car jerk 3 times while the rpm needle goes up to 6. Then the rpm drops to 2, the acceleration finally kicks in, and a huge puff of grey smoke makes the cars behind me completely disappear.
I've read threads about the smoke with the acceleration, but no one mentioned the jerking and not wanting to actually accelerate at first.
There are 33,000 miles on my car.
I called the dealership and they said it only sounds like it's an issue that something in the engine needs to be cleaned out, and they want to charge me $200 if that's the case.
Should something need to be cleaned out at only 33,000 miles? (mind you I also just had the dealership tell me I didn't need my 30,000 mile tune up yet after doing an inspection).
2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
View 8 RepliesSo on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
My transmission is having issues switching from 1st to 2nd gear and same issue from 5th to 6th. What happens, (when attempting to switch from 1st to 2nd) RPMs rev up high (as though it is in Neutral) then after 2-3 sec it shifts, car jumps crazy and in like 1 sec it shifts down (to 1st - RPMs jump) then shifts to 2nd gear and from there it is fine. 3rd to 4th, to 5th is great, but 5th to 6th same issue, not as extreme, but similar. If i let go of gas when it should shift to 2nd gear, and wait like 2 sec, it will be in 2nd gear without jerking - Normal.
Sometimes in Park there is this noise as though something metal is hitting another metal part, and I can feel it in car - but it goes away and only happens from time to time. Also Neutral on rare occasion works as Reverse - super rare. I did Stall test (per Hyundai procedure Bulletin 13-AT-007) - no issues. Dealer ran diagnostic - no Codes in transmission. Flushed fluid - didn't work. I drained fluid again, put new fluid in and checked ATF level per 13-AT-006 - no difference. Tested Solenoids - no problem there. What could be an issue with my transmission?? 2012 Sonata GLS 2.4L with 7k miles.