Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Heavy Rust On Rear Wheel Wells
Jul 23, 2013
I have a 2011 Sonata Limited, I'm noticing some heavy rusting in the wheel wells especially in the rear (not sure if wells are the right term), what can I do?
It's very ugly, It has very heavy surface rust, the car is 2011, I don't remember seeing this much damaged when I purchased the car last winter. I took it to the dealership, they said they cant change it because it is purely aesthetic and the components still work.
I'm researching rust proofing, but that seems more like a preventative action than a remedy, what can I do, it really annoys me every time I look at it. I don't know why Hyundai chose such poor material inside the wheels that rusts so easily. I have compared it to other Sonatas I see on the street, mine is a lot worse.
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My 2000 V10 Ex 4x4 (has 146,000 miles) with some rust on rockers and wheel wells runs pretty good. The exhaust needs some work. The transmission shifts pretty well I think, except sometimes from 1st to 2nd its a little jerky (like in a parking lot). I've put powerstop brakes on all four wheels, and have been maintaining it pretty well since I bought it almost two years ago.
Here's my issue. My 3rd son (out of 4) was diagnosed 2 years ago with ALL (Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia). His End Of Treatment (EOT) date is July 8th 2018. This is relevant because to celebrate his EOT, we are planning on taking a 2 week road trip out west in our new to us hybrid travel trailer we just purchased this past February. We are taking the camper on a few weekend trips this summer and one week long trip to Michigan in July (we're from Ohio).
My concern is this: am I risking a ruined trip out west with such an old vehicle? I don't really trust it for such a long trip, I worry something would fail me and ruin a trip that's supposed to be celebrating my son conquering cancer. Am I being overly paranoid? I see V10 trucks and Excursions all the time with more miles than my own. I just worry that the rust will just be too much and the driveshaft will fall off, or the transmission will fail while we're towing up the Bighorns, or in Yellowstone. You get the picture.
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I noticed a rust spot near my passenger rear wheel well. Not really sure how I got the damage or where it came from. I don't walk to that side of the car as often so I'm not sure how long it's been there. I can't feel on the other side as there is another panel on the other side so I don't know if it is rusted all the way inside.
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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So I'm noticing after any rainfall or snowfall, really anything that causes there to be water on the road, that my brake rotors end up with a lot of rust on them. As soon as I start driving and hit the brakes, you hear the awful grinding. But after the first time the sound is heard, the rust is gone along with the sound...
I've never had that happen on any other car I've owned. The rotors don't look thin, and they definitely shouldn't be worn out after only a year anyway.
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Picked up my new 2013 Sonata GL 3-weeks ago. Noticed a little surface rust on the front struts when I picked it up and when I was washing it for the first time last week I saw a rust spot where the chrome trim mounts on the hood. I removed the trim and took these photos...
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We have a 2013 Sonata. For a while now we have been hearing a thump-thump-thump from the back of the car. The thumping starts as soon as the car moves and it appears to come from the driver side.
We get the thumping in our parking lot, on local roads, on the highway - everywhere. The frequency of the thumping speeds up and slows down in lock step with road speed. The thumping doesn't get appreciably louder when we go around turns or when we apply the brakes. We feel no vibration through the brake pedal, or through the steering wheel, or through the seats or any other part of the car.
Six months ago we left the car with the dealer after taking the service advisor for a ride. He heard the noise but when examining the car they could not locate the source of it. They said the wheel bearings looked good, the tires looked good, the brake rotors looked good.
After that we replaced the old tires with new ones and had them installed and had the wheels and tires balanced at a shop that is known for doing this well. (They take care of a lot of SCCA weekend racers.) After all of that the thumping was still there, same as before.
Now the thumping is getting worse. We are planning to take the car back to the dealer to have them go over it again and start replacing parts to see if we can locate the source of the noise that way.
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Rust proofing the rear wheel well: I was trying to rust proof/coat the rear wheel well and surrounding area to make sure i get the bolts under it. Back of the car is where most of the salt sits as the undercurrents with wind tend to drive the salt deep in the quarter panels and around tank area. I wanted to confirm if these cars still have the wheel well bolt securing the bumper to the quarter panel with a rust prone steel bolt.
When weather gets better i'll take to get sprayed somewhere. But for now i wanted to leave something on it of a coat after a good cleaning. Hate dam salt or whatever they are using these days.
I also noticed that the SE's wheel well internal sheathing was much stronger looking, solid than what's on my LE - a felt type material. Besides the wheel well rim on SE has a band of silicone type substance overlaid on it. Right?
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My car if left on in park for 3-4 minutes starts to have a heavy smell of something... Is my car running a little rich or is there a more serious underlying problem?
RPM of car idle is 750.
And car doesn't smell like fuel when I'm driving, only if I leave the car running for a while and it sits there does this smell begin to build up.
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My car has many new dents and scratches (Got some scratches on my hood due to my awesome snow scrapper, and a mysterious new dent on my bumper that I saw after I washed some salt off). Anyway scratches I can deal with. It's just this bit of rust that's bothering me. It's on the rear driver side window pane.
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At first, I only noticed the driver's side door rattling when I listening to a song heavy in base. Now, I notice it rattling when I drive on a rough road. I can stop the rattling by pushing my left knee against the door while I'm driving, but I shouldn't have to do this....
I took my car to the dealership a week before my 1yr was up, and they told me the rattle happened in EVERY Hyundai vehicle. The rep told me, "I just talked to my boss and he has that Genesis over there. It's a 35k car and the driver's door rattles."
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While rotating the tires I've noticed heavy rusting on the flanges that the wheels are bolted to, in fact the rear ones were stuck to the flanges. It looks like the VW logo on the wheels is not hermetically sealing the area and water/salt get in and create a rust heaven.
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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My 2004-V8 has developed some creaking sound that seems to come from both front wheel wells when going at low speeds. Going over bumps does not produce them but hard braking and corners tend to produce them. My suspicions are either brakes or steering. Had all the suspension bushings done about a year ago and the dealer did not tell me about worn steering parts. Steering tracks well and suspension is taught. Vagcom shows nothing as this most likely is completely mechanical or even structural.
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I just completed a detailed cleaning of my SF last weekend and I noticed that every plastic screw and plastic nut inside the wheel wells were all loose. (Not the screws on the outside but inside above the tires.) I tightened them only finger tight.
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My rear wells don't engage...long story short, we hooked it up to a vag-com, it couldn't even communicate with the controller and the car wasn't throwing any other codes. I put it in the air and spinning the left turn clockwise makes the right tire turn counterclockwise, so that's normal... I took the connector off the Haldex controller and it had fluid in the connector... so I'm a victim of the Haldex fluid migration, now I'm lost on how to fix it? is it the pre-charge pump leaking? Do I replace the controller and pump? I need my R to feel like an R again, and not an fwd GTi ...
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I just went to Steamboat this weekend which requires driving over two mountain passes in a snow storm...I only go if it is snowing. This was the first trip with my new 2013 FX4 and the front wheel wells filled up with so much ice that the wheels would rub after a bump in the road. The mountain roads do have lots of frost heaves so this would happen fairly often. The ice was all around the wheel well with a huge build up behind the wheel. It also covered the step rails. Would mud flaps do anything to preovent this build up? Or any other tricks?. Otherwise the truck did fine...
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I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
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My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
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Noticed while standing still there is a knocking when I turn the wheel. Also hear a know when driving and I hit bumps. mostly noticeable when going slow.
I'm at 104,000 kms and my mechanic says the rack and pinion is toast. I've never had to replace this on any car.
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