I have noticed that anytime i leave the car parked for more than 5 hrs or so, when i get in and put my foot to the brake pedal to start, the pedal feels very hard... as tho someone sat in the car and pressed it several times.... So great force is needed to mash the pedal to start the car... After it starts the pedal gets nice and soft as normal... Is this normal?? Or should i get it checked
View 9 RepliesI tried to turn on my car, and the brake pedal was hard and the car wouldn't start. I did a search on the forums regarding the brake light switch. I tried the 30 second hold the start button, car would not start. Radio/lights works fine so I don't think it's a battery problem. My g/f said she can see all of my brake lights turn on when I try to depress them. I'm kind of a lost. It was working fine earlier this morning.
View 6 RepliesI am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
View 8 RepliesMy brake pedal is rock hard to press and when I do press it while pushing the push to start, it does not turn on.
View 8 RepliesI have 2011 SE, it won't start at all. The car won't start all thou all electrical are working (radio, NAV, Dashboard) but when trying to press the break pedal is hard as a rock. Dashboard computer at times tells me to press the break pedal - but it wont start, it actually turns off when i press the break and hit the start button. It happen twice before was able to start it within couple minutes.
View 24 RepliesMy sonata 2012 with 71K km on it just started hard shifting in the morning, after first start. It slamming in D from R very harsh and then shifts all other gears for ~3 minutes harshly (upshift / downshift) and then it gets fine and shifts gears with absolutely no problem throughout the day. Dealer of course was not able to reproduce the problem.
View 37 RepliesSo, I have had this weird incident happen a couple times. The first time it happened was probably a month or so after getting the car (2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited). I was parked on our driveway, and it's on an incline. I started it up, but the brake pedal was super hard to push down. Once the car started, everything felt fine, and other than a casual "Huh, that was weird." I didn't really think anything of it. Have been without incident for months.
Then today, it happened twice. Parked in the same spot, started the car fine this time, but I went to turn it around in the driveway and almost took out our shrubs because I went to brake and the pedal was stuck. Pushed down really hard and got the car to stop. Put it in park, and tested the pedal a couple times... everything was fine. Was nervous, but took the car anyways. Happened again in the afternoon. Got out of the store and thought I was going to be stranded in the parking lot because this time the pedal was stuck and at first I couldn't start the car. Luckily, it eased up when I pushed down hard and it started, then all was fine again.
I have done a little looking and saw vacuum booster and master cylinder mentioned for possibilities, though no one's experience that I have seen sounds just like mine, nor did I find any that are Sonata YF specific. I already got my switch recall taken care of, so this is something different. Only 7,000 miles on the car. Gonna bring it in to the dealer this week, but just wanted to crowd source opinions in case they can't replicate the problem. I hate feeling like I can't trust my vehicle... especially when it's almost brand new.
Have a 13 Sonata Limited 2.0t and for some reason it won't start.
Also brake pedal is extremely stiff. Tried to push start button several times while pressing brake, and dash lights just blink several times.
Had this issue with my Kia Optima 2013 pertaining to the brake pedal, now with my 14 Sonata Limited. When in stop and go traffic, parking lot driving, or pulling into the garage that requires a lighter touch on the brake pedal, the pedal has a creaking feel to it, like when closing a creaky door. I can make this happen of course when I push the brake pedal slowly with my hand. This also happens when letting up on the pedal slowly/lightly. Kind of annoying, but the brakes work just fine and dandy
View 3 RepliesA month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
View 3 RepliesSo, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
My wife has been letting me know that the car has this grinding-like noise only in the morning when she leaves and it's fine for the rest of the day. I did some google-ing to find that this might be due to thin layer of brake rust and the initial 'grind' is just it wearing off and why we don't hear it again for the rest of the day. It happened this morning and we did get rain/snow yesterday and she drove home in that and once home hasn't touched the car till this morning. The last time she mentioned this I think it snowed the day the car was parked. I drove the car all last weekend and didn't notice anything, but it was also dry out. Is this something that I should be concerned about or something to be aware of on a new-ish car?
- Recently had the 7.5k service done (1/30/16) and both brake occurrences happened after this
- We park in a climate-controlled garage
- Car has about ~9k miles
- wife took a video ....
Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
View 11 RepliesI've a problem with an 2005 V10 Tdi.
The brake pedal goes hard after 2 or 3 presses like the servo has stopped working.
Having an issue with my brake pedal. When the car sits for long periods of time, usually overnight, the brake pedal is extremely hard to depress. I have to really press down hard in order to start the ignition. Took it into my dealership, and they actually said there was a TSB issued for something to do with the brakes. Well, evidently, they fixed it, but the issue came back almost immediately, only this time it's worse. The brake pedal firms up after 3-4 hours of sitting.
Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.
I have a 2008 Prius. Had to do an 'emergency' stop. Put my foot on the brake pedal REAL hard and the car slowed way down, but not down enough. Munched the front end. Now remembering back, I didn't feel any 'chattering' from the ABS brakes. It seems like I got regen braking but never switched to the hydraulic brakes. Is that possible? Did I experience a braking failure? Or do Prius just take a lot longer to stop? I did a test stop in the rental car I have now (not a Prius or hybrid), and it gives me the ABS chatter as I would expect, with a short stopping distance.
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS with a manual transmission--it has a mere 15k miles on it. I'd have to say that after driving it around for a bit I really don't like the gas pedal or the clutch pedal as compared to my old Honda, and my friend's new VW. The gas pedal is super sensitive--I feel like 90% of the throttle is in the first 10% of movement. I'm traveling at 60 mph and it feels like the pedal is only depressed 1/8 inch.
It's kind of the opposite for the clutch pedal. It grabs fine, that is, I can feel the engagement point perfectly, but there is so much travel. I feel like I lift my knee to my chest and have to push the clutch through feet of travel. More literally though, I can't just do most of the work by rotating my foot on the heel--I have to lift my entire leg. I prefer cars with much less travel and think the Elantra was pretty good in fact.
I don't have an eco mode since it's a manual so that rules out desensitizing the gas pedal by those means... Is there any way to reduce the sensitivity of the gas pedal, and to maybe reduce the total overall travel of the clutch pedal? It has to be reliable and safe..
I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
View 14 RepliesI have an issue when I go to start the car after it sits for as little as 30 min.The brake pedal is stiff and its hard to start since you have to depress the brake pedal prior to starting the car .
View 3 Replies