Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: HIDs Pulsing While Accelerating
Jan 29, 2014
I noticed going up hill when the RPM's hit around 2100 RPM this morning it looked like my HID's went into a strobe type pulse. They stayed on but got brighter every partial second. Even from a stop if I accelerated with more than 2k RPM the lights flickered.
It's done it for two days, which happened to be in the single digits tempature wise. Do you think it's my alternator or my battery having the issues? Car is a 2012 so I'm leaning more toward battery load issues.
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Can make the front turn signal witch is also the parking light into a hid?? And how to change the bulbs in the mirror turn signal?
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Well, was excited to finally get these things installed and they looked and were working perfectly. Unfortunately after one hour of use, whilst pulling into the garage, the drivers side bulb just cuts out completely. Check all the wiring everything is good, the passenger side is still working perfectly, so I need to determine what the problem would be, because I pulled out the bulb and it is completely in tact.
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I tried going up the driveway and as I was accelerating, I almost noticed a little "slowing down" while trying to accelerate up the driveway. It was really snowy so I am thinking that it might have been the ESC trying to fix the path. I thought about this after I got it up the driveway, so I couldn't test it.
Is this normal or should I have it looked at by a mechanic???
2011 Hyundai sonata SE...
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I recently acquired a 2014 Sonata Limited 2.4L. Don't know if its me or not but engine noise seems to be excessive in the cabin especially when I am accelerating from a very low speed, almost like something in the engine is loose. Had it at the dealership today for warranty work (seat belt) and recall work and asked the techs to take a listen when the do their inspection. They came back and said that the noise is coming from the electric fuel pump and that it is totally normal. Previous car I had was a 2011 Honda Accord Ex and it seamed quieter.
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So I have had HID's on my car since the purchase back in 2007. Until recently, approx 2 months ago, if I turned on my fog lights, my car would stall out. Then about a month ago, my only of my headlights started blinking and it went out. So I decided to replace all the lights with new kits.
So I just purchased 5000K 35w headlight and 25w(only ones they sell) fog lights for my car from HIDExtra. First sets were Xentec.
1. Headlights are H7 slim ballast
2. Fog lights are 881 regular ballast but still slimmer then the original big boys
**No relays**
So the car ran fine with them for about 2 days but if I turn them on while driving the car will stall out. I didn't have this problem before so I am trying to see has something worn out or what?? I didn't have relays before.
So what I went ahead and did was order relays for the fogs and headlights in hoping it would fix the issue. I am waiting for them to come in on Wednesday. Should this fix my issue? I never had them before(maybe I should have had them).
Its like the RPM's drop then engine skips then stalls. Car goes into limp mode and CEL stays on. Turn the car off and back on and limp mode goes away but CEL stays on until I let the car stay off for a while.
Brand new battery from Advance Auto. I thought that was the original problem before getting the lights so battery cannot be the issue. Could it be alternator?? Car runs fine as long as I turn the lights on first then start it up but if I have to turn them on while in motion...stall out.
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Both of my bulbs flicker, intermittently. They will flicker, most times not at the same time as one another, for about 5 to 15 seconds then stop. I have not yet been able to detect a pattern. The battery is fully powered and the resistors are not throwing a code so I assume they are working (I installed them to eliminate an error code and stabilize the voltage). The capacitors (or "error eliminators") I have installed do not seem to do anything.
This problem just started recently too, they never used to flicker at all. The only problem I had is I used to get a bulb out warning but like I said I got rid of that by adding resistors. The bulbs are only 5 months old.
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I recently installed HID lights in both the low beam and fog/driving lights on my 2008 Sonata Limited. I used relay wiring kits so the HID's pull power straight from the battery. When I turn on the HID's after starting the car, the engine stalls and throws a check engine light with codes P0698 & P2110. Took the car to the dealer and all they really did was verify the codes and clear them claiming it was fixed...NOT!!
If I restart the engine 2-3 times with the HID's off, the check engine light clears itself and if I rev the engine RPM's while turning on the HID's then it's no problem. The HID's otherwise work great..and again the only power they pull from the car's electrical wiring is the signal from the headlight switch wiring that trips the relay to turn the HID's on!! The HID relay wiring kits have inline 20amp fuses between the battery and relays and they are fine, so the HID's can't be pulling that much current.
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I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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I have a new (to me) 2007 3.3 Sonata w/ 64XXX miles on it. Recently it set off codes for P2A03 and PO154 indicating a problem with the front upstream o2 sensor. Before I replace the sensor I was wondering if these codes might have any other underlying cause.
Symptoms: The car has recently had one instance of pulsing acceleration and one incident where it didn't want to turn over but after an extended start finally started; this problem has not repeated. Otherwise the car has strong acceleration smooth idle and drives fine.
Also, I would like to know if o2 sensors are covered by mandated emission warranty or by Hyundai's 10y/100,000 warranty.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I am using hyundai sonata 2006 model (2.0). I just change my engine and the RPM of the engine I bought always drop below1000 when am not accelerating or when I apply brake and slow down in traffic. When the rpm is bellow 1000 my oil indicator light is always on and if my Ac is on it will switch off the engine. How I can increase the rpm to 1000 or a little above 1000 when am not accelerating (in idle position when the engine is steaming).
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Just recently I've noticed my car making a whining noise. I have a 2011w/ DSG, Stage 2 APR w/ DP and K&N Filter. I've researched some cases of the whine coming from intake but using just the K&N I doubt it's that. Plus the noise just started recently and the filter was put on 4k ago. I read somewhere that it's a leak in the exhaust??? What it could be?
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This is in regards to my daughters 2009 I4 Sonata. In cold weather, like we are having now in Chicago. After the car is sitting all day or overnight, it will jerk (nice technical term) when accelerating until the car warms up. What is the problem is and how to resolve it?
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Over the last couple of days, my 2009 Sonata V6 has developed what I best can describe as a rattling noise near the engine when I am accelerating the vehicle (noise changes based on throttle input). I only hear the noise with the car in drive, if I shift into Neutral or when I am in Park I don't hear the noise when I rev the engine.
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I have a 2009 sonata with 33k miles, the last few days i hear a rattle noise while accelerating, the noise disappears while driving at more than 40mph...
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Today I noticed a pinging noise on the highway when accelerating around 60 mph. It certainly doesn't sound like its coming from the lower end and it happened with the engine fully warmed up. I've always changed the oil on time, never has it overheated and it performs very well otherwise, no power losses.
No check engine light is on. In fact, I have heard this same noise on older cars I have owned (Cutlass Ciera) around the same mileage 105000. I am thinking of adding an oil additive, and I have heard that 1 Qt of ATF fluid followed by a drain and refill works well.
I might also do a fuel system purge, BG's has a good machine for that Could this be an EGR issue? Replacing EGR valve? If so was it easy and where is it located. I am hoping I didn't break a valve spring....
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So I've been noticing this for a while, pretty much ever since ive had my car. I have a 2011 camry se v6 and when i go hard on the gas from a dead stop or accelerating on a on ramp on to the freeway i get this smell coming from the vents that smell like rotten eggs or something and my friend in the back said he can smell it too. This only happens when i accelerate really fast and shoot up to or over 4500-5000 rpm, why? i use cheveron 89 gas which is plus.
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Currently have 85k miles. About 20k miles ago I noticed when I have the driver window down I would hear a rattle coming from under the car when accelerating. Doesn't happen every time but does quite often. Usually goes away almost immediately. I'm not having any other issues and with my warranty out I'm not anxious for a drip to the dealer.
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When you press on the accelerator the car feels very sluggish it only has 61,000 miles
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Tonight while driving and accelerating fairly hard we began to hear a noise. The car sat parked for roughly 5 hours and then we began to drive it home (apx. 12-15 miles). About halfway through the drive the power steering went out and the battery light came on. The battery light would turn off and the drivers seatbelt light would come on even while it was buckled. These two lights alternated being on and off 2 times each. We heard something that sounded like a rock got kicked up into a wheel well. After getting the car home with no power steering we noticed the car had begun to run very hot. almost all the way up the gauge.
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