Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Fuel Pump Is Whirring Before Start
Jan 28, 2015
I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with ~65k miles. I have an intermittent problem with the cranking, but will not start. It sounds like the fuel pump is "whirring" before start, and this only happens once a week or so. Other times, the car starts fine. The gas tank is ~1/4 full also.
There has been another intermittent issue (not sure if it's related) - with the O2 sensor heating coil. The check engine light comes on for a day or two and goes away wit the O2 heater coil problem. However, I'm not sure a sensor coil problem would cause the car to not start when it's cranking.
Could it be the crank sensor issue? Is that issue known to be sporadic?
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Geo won't start. It has a new battery and air filter. Just replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. I don't hear the fuel pump "whirring" when I put the key in the ignition (to on position). All the dashboard lights come on when the car is in on position.
I suspect the relay or the fuse, but having trouble finding the correct one of each. What does the relay look like? i.e. part number? What is the spec for the fuse? 20amp 30 amp? This has been a great car.
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I have a gas leak at the connection of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and high pressure fuel pipe. Gas drips and sprays out from the nut area (see pic). The car take a several seconds to turn over to start.
What is the most likely cause? The car is out of warranty, so trying to repair myself without having to replace any expensive parts unnecessarily.
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
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My 2011 Sonata SE gets a rough idle when my AC is turned on, and sometimes it produces a whirring noise as I'm driving in low gears. It all goes completely away if I turn my AC off. I'm afraid my AC might go out at an inopportune time. What could it be?
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My '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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My 2015 Sonata SE fuel pump failed at 29,000 miles, I was stranded on busy highway. No warning light or anything, it just died going 65MPH! Hyundai fixed it & paid for towing (but not the cab ride to get home after leaving it at dealership on Sunday night.
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I can't be able to fill the gas for my Hyundai sonata 2014 SE and pump has been shuts off automatically 2 times.I tried to fill from different pump and happened same again. This is a new car with 9 MONTHS old.
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After pumping for a few seconds the pump stops because it thinks the tank is full. I have been searching for other 2011 Sonata owners with this problem but can't find any. I see it on older cars, something about charcoal pellets, but not on new cars. Could this be charcoal pellets on this car? The car is still new, why would this happen?
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I'm fixing a 2007 Sonata that was in a front end collision, I've replaced everything that was ruined in the wreck (as far as I know), and also replaced the SRS control module, impact sensors, and also the airbag. The car starts with starting fluid and there isn't any damage to the engine so I'm not concerned with something being wrong with that, but the fuel pump won't prime and before the wreck it drove fine. So what could impede the fuel pump from priming? I've checked the wires and they're not sending power to the fuel pump so I feel like the pump should still be fine, it's just it's not getting power. What could cause this?
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I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.
I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.
I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.
The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.
So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.
I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.
I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?
Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.
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I just recently bought a 2011 powerstroke f250 and while running I can hear the fuel pump humming pretty loud. Is this a possibility that it's going out? Or is this normal?
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This morning the Fuel Door can't open, after I tried 7-8 times it opened. So I drove the the dealer, but after I arrive there it can open with each push. The car did that fuel door TSB last month.
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I was auto crossing yesterday with about half a tank and I noticed my fuel gauge read 40miles to empty after one of my runs. I filled it back up to the top and it still reads almost empty. Im out of warranty so Is there something I can check before taking to the dealer?
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I was one of the many lucky ones to have my engine stall on me, and just had the replacement put in back in April. Drove the car from San Diego to Phoenix, and everything was fine.
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed some gas vapor fumes coming into the car usually during the initial start up, and then the smell would go away.
I read some old threads from 2011 about the pcv hose causing this issue for many owners, so I replaced both the valve and the hose. This hasn't solved the issue, and when i run the vehicle and inspect under the hood, the fume smell is still coming from that vicinity.
Is there some other valve nearby that i should inspect or replace?
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Recently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
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For the last 60 miles, my fuel gauge is showing major usage,for every 6 miles it is using 1/10 of gauge.
When I go to fill gas it takes only less than 1/3 gallon of gas then it clicks full.
So I have driven 24 miles and it is showing 4/10 gauge used up.
No smell of gas
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My car if left on in park for 3-4 minutes starts to have a heavy smell of something... Is my car running a little rich or is there a more serious underlying problem?
RPM of car idle is 750.
And car doesn't smell like fuel when I'm driving, only if I leave the car running for a while and it sits there does this smell begin to build up.
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I ran out of gas one day refilled the tank and car still won't start. Took it to an mechanic he got it running ( saying it was the fuse and electrical problem) got it home and the next day it die on me again, so I called him up and he say it the fuel pump, so I got it replaced and it still won't start. So what's the next step on getting my car to start again.
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