I have noticed several times when leaving my driveway (backing out OR driving out) that it feels like I have a flat spot in my passenger front tire. The first couple times I pulled over to check the tire pressure to make sure it was ok, and it was. It doesn't happen every day, but I have noticed it 4-5 times in the last 5-6 weeks. I was talking to a guy from work and he has the same issue.
View 9 RepliesI had these things wrong in the first 12 months
Tire shake: took 4 trips to find one bad tire. Replaced 1 tire
Squeaky front end: 2 trips to find front coil rubbing on the frame due to bad mount or something. Fixed under recall
Squeaky front end part 2: bad upper strut mount bushing. I won't even count the dealership nicking my hood and it has to be repainted.
I have never had a perfectly smooth riding car. Frankly, the loaners drive better. I documented this with the dealer I bought the car from and then with VWoA a month ago. I told them the front tires are shaking again and need a balance. I even had the front tires balanced at an Indy shop. Before my 1100 vacation. Now it needs balancing again. The back has always had a slight bumping
Now at the 10k service, I get a free alignment check and find my car is moderately out if alignment.
I originally mentioned it to my purchase dealer asking if it needed the alignment after all suspension work. They said it was not needed. EVIDENTALLY IT WAS.
So now I have a tire with a flat spot which they should have replaced when I had one replaced. Evidently, this car says before I leased it. I used my free alignment I had with my extended warranty which I should have been able to save for down the road AND I still need a tire balance.
I told VWoA a month ago I shouldn't have to pay for a balance if it kept going out of balance. Obviously, something was causing the tires to be out if balance. It was pretty far out on the front left. Camber was out .58 and the toe .02.
I am highly annoyed. Norm reeves never put the effort in to make it smooth.
So today I got in the car and started to drive off and noticed a squeal coming from the front passenger tire while the vehicle is moving forward. This is the first time I've heard this noise and it is very annoying and loud.
Details on the car:
2011 Sonata Limited (not turbo)
Roughly 34700
I purchased it used with 28K on it in May of this year
Had the first flat, and after it was fixed, screen warning and yellow TPMS light don't go away. Does it reset itself automatically after 'x' ignition cycles, or do we need one of those TPMS tools to reset it? No mention of this in the manual. Need to know before I blame Discount Tire for damaging the sensor. But since they don't charge to fix flats, don't know if I'd be able to get anything from them.
It's a 2011 Sonata Limited.
About 3 weeks into the new 13 Elantra. Liking it pretty good. I seem to be hearing a noise of some sort. Almost sounds like a flat spot on a tire. Seems to be more rapid the faster I go and more or less noticeable on different types of asphalt. Didn't really notice it at first. The only thing I did was let some air out of the tires. They had almost 40 psi when I got it. They call for 32.
View 11 RepliesI have a 07 Sonata 2l crtd, Its been running fine for about 6 years, But for the last couple of months, when setting off gently, as it reaches approx 1400rpm, I get a blip/hiccup/flat spot/miss. It ONLY happens at 1400rpm, and irrespective of what speed I am doing.
For example, as above, (setting off) but also, if cruising gently at approx 50mph ( which equals approx 1400rpm) then it does it again. It only does it at 1400rpm.
Also (maybe related) the orange engine warning light has now come on ( twice in past 2 weeks ) it stays on for a day or so,,,then goes out. its not flashing.
I have a 2014 Sonata GLS with only 4200 km on it, purchased new in August 2014. The car has been flawless...until yesterday. I took the car for its first oil/filter change and asked them to check tire pressure at the same time...this was at a Hyundai dealership, btw.
I left the dealership and immediately noticed that the car was swaying and more wobbly than normal (i can make it bounce from side to side by moving my body in the driver's seat), and when I make a right turn there is an awful squeal from the right-front tire.
I've done some online research today but couldn't get back to the dealer before they closed to look at it. Most posts I've read point to under inflated tires, but there are others that say wheel bearing and more.
I have an MK6 2011 GTI that's been rock solid, but I'm having a weird problem with my 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg with 52k miles. The 5yr warranty expired in July.
This weekend my wife catch a nail on the road and got a flat tire on the rear right side. It was the late night, no open tire shop open. We put the spare tire drive to home. Next morning when I was going to the tire shop the Tiguan and a message appeared on the MFI.
Here's the codes/messages that appeared at the same time.
ESP/ABS error.
Airbag error.
Steering wheel light on. (Yellow)
Electric Parking Brake light on. (Yellow)
Does a fault abs sensor would light all this? I saw there's a air bag error recall in a thread. I ordered the abs sensor, also the tensioner update kit to prevent failure?
I came home and just noticed that the V10 rear passenger side tire almost flat; I bent down and the nail head appeared to my eyes, I took the car over to the local Pepboys store to patch it up. And there is no key for the wheel lock. The mechanic and I had madly search all over the searchable spots..... and NO key for wheel lock! I called the dealer at two minutes after 5 and no service people there.
View 9 RepliesI noticed a rust spot near my passenger rear wheel well. Not really sure how I got the damage or where it came from. I don't walk to that side of the car as often so I'm not sure how long it's been there. I can't feel on the other side as there is another panel on the other side so I don't know if it is rusted all the way inside.
View 12 RepliesThis is kinda hard to describe but here it goes. I have a 2012 Turbo with 33K miles which I have owned since new.
Like I said, it is hard to explain but it seems like the steering wheel has a dead spot when driving. Feels like you have a magnet between the steering wheel and the column. As you are driving, it seems like you overcompensate trying to keep the car in a straight line. Asked the techs at the dealer twice already and they say this is normal for being electric.
Gotta tell you, on long rides feels like I just flew an old C-47 (DC-3) for ten hours straight!
I am experiencing a front passenger area body creak noise and recently found a TSB to get it fixed. How much it might cost be to get it done at the dealership or anywhere else?
View 1 RepliesMy husband and I almost bought a used 14 sonata SE last night, but it was contingent on the dealer fixing the clicking or pinging noise going on under the passenger front door. It was going on during the test drive and continued after the car was turned off. The car has 7,000 miles on it. So the dealer took it to a hyundai dealer this morning to have it repaired under warranty, and the hyundai dealer said its a normal new car noise and will work itself out with time - but there's nothing to repair.
I'm aware that sometimes exhaust systems or heat shields ping a few times when the car is turned off? Did it eventually stop? And when? It really is annoying. I'd like to get this car, but he refuses to buy it if it's making this noise.
I have this noticeable creaking noise that pops up every now and then on the front passenger side of the car. Problem is it is hard to replicate to the dealer. I usually notice it going over dips at some times, and most when I make a right turn into a raised road. Otherwise, not a peep out of the car.
View 19 RepliesFront driver side area making a flat tire noise. Replaced the tires and axle and wheel bearings. Kinda lost on what could btw making the noise. Alignment done 15k miles ago when lowering springs and new shocks were put on.
View 5 RepliesI got my coilovers installed, love em....but now I have a clunking sound. Oddly enough it happens when I'm on flat pavement...not when I'm going over bumps.
View 9 RepliesI got my Sonata at 27k, its now at 76k and the cars been great although I had the following issues.
I've noticed sometimes when I startup and shift into reverse the car jerks a bit and its not a smooth transition. However other times the car is very fluid in switching gears. Should I take it in to have a look at it?
Also when I am turning onto a unleveled road (usually a higher road), I notice a creaking/knocking noise coming from the front of the car, also notice it when I reverse into a parking space sometimes.
I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
View 4 RepliesMy 2.0 recently had some problems with the coil pack so I replaced it. Now my car hits a "flat spot" when accelerating around 2000 RPM and then another around 2600 RPM. If I am in 3rd gear going about 20MPH and I press the gas about 25-30% it sort of shakes and won't accelerate and when I take my foot off the gas and slowly ease the pedal down it accelerates fine.
My car also runs pretty rough at a cold idle(misfires). When I press the gas it sounds smooth until it gets back to idle. At any temp my car runs really rough with the A/C on. I also hear a rattle/Buzz around my relay panel when the A/C is on. My car is a 1999 2.0 AEG. I don't have VAG-COM just a generic scanner and the last codes I got were:
P0134
P0135
P0141
I replaced both O2 sensors and the beginning of this year and those codes came back right after I did them. I will scan tomorrow and post any new codes.