Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Tries To Turn Over Weakly And Then Stops
May 29, 2014
I have a 2011 Sonata GLS key ignition (no start button). When I turn the key (foot on brake), the engine tries to turn but very weakly and then stops. I do it again and again with same results. Sometimes I get a better response on the key turn but still wont start. After about 10 to 15 tries it will finally turn over and start. I purchased a new battery today but unfortunately that was not the problem as the car is still having problems.
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It is not the brake switch. I can shift the transmission. Put key in ignition and turn to start. Engine starts to fire then stops and can hear starter turning while still holding key in start position. The car did start after many time and got home.
Tried to start again and no go. Warranty is done. I have read something on-line about cam position sensor? Last couple months had strange idle at stop light that went away and this can be also a symptom of the cam sensor.
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I was checking the air filter today, when I went to turn off the engine it sounds weird , check in the video on second number 6...
here is the link.. [URL] ....
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Had an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
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After pumping for a few seconds the pump stops because it thinks the tank is full. I have been searching for other 2011 Sonata owners with this problem but can't find any. I see it on older cars, something about charcoal pellets, but not on new cars. Could this be charcoal pellets on this car? The car is still new, why would this happen?
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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So it's happened a couple of times already when the temperature has dropped below 20 degrees my subwoofer stops working until the temperatures come back up.
Is there some sort of protection I should know about because I skimmed through the owner's manual and didn't see anything about it. Seems to work perfect what's the temperature back up later.
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Went to the mall the other day for a few hours, when I cam back out and when I went it start my car it would not start. Symptoms are weird, I can hear the starter begin to crank then it stops and the dash flickers on and off, interior and exterior lights flicker on and off, starter cranks on and off also. This keeps going until I push the start button again twice to turn the car off.
This keeps happening every time I try to start it. When I popped the hood I noticed the positive battery cover was open.. I closed it and when someone tried to start it for me the cover flew open. It was like 2 seconds after the starter cranked a master circuit breaker would trip, then reset over and over again.
Stranded on a Saturday, I had to join CAA online and request a tow to the dealership. The tow truck guy said I was the 4th push to start hyundai with exactly the same issues he had a call for that day. He went in the car vanished under the dash and got the car started. He would n't tell me what trick he did, but he said drive it to the dealer and leave it there as it was a one shot trick.
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Bought a 2012 Sonata GLS back on July 3rd. I've had 3 instances where I'll be running on cruise control, I'll disengage it and then when I go to resume it doesn't do anything. I can turn Cruise on and off but it will not Set nor Resume. I have to stop and turn the car off and then back on for it to work again. I have a service appointment this Saturday for an alignment issue so I'm going to have them check this out too.
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I purchased a brand new 2014 Sonata Limited 2 months ago and took it to the local dealer last night for two issues.
The first issue was small rust spots on the sillplate and the second is a very slight clicking noise I hear from the engine compartment now when I turn the temperature dial.
The dealer just called and said that the clicking is "normal". The car didn't do it for the first two months.
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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I started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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My son has been using my old X to commute to local university. Today he drove off as usual but when he tried to start truck to come home he got a slight crank but then it shuts off or dies. The engine will start to crank over but gets about a quarter turn and stops. All electrical accessories work, battery gauge is in normal 13V indication. New starter 4 weeks ago replaced battery at same time (Wal-Mart warranty exchange). Is a 6.8L Gas with 370,000 miles. Consistant service. Oil coolant good. I replaced starter solinoid by battery today did same thing.
Theft light is flashing when key goes in ignition (weird) goes off as you try to turn it over. Have tried putting it in neutral and park to start. 1/4 tank of gas feul pump replaced two years ago. Last time starting problem about three years ago was solenoid replaced crank sensor at time from bogus forum diagnosis. thats about all the info I have. Hooked up OBDII no codes being thrown.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS and my fog lights wont turn on with the HIDs installed but they turn on with my regular halogen bulbs? I installed HIDs on the low beam headlight and they work perfect with the computer warning and anti-flicker. when i installed the fog light HID kit on my fog lights, they just make a quick flicker for like 1 second then they turn off. I have switched ballast, reconnected wires, and thought of switching polarities. Haven't done that yet because power is reaching the bulb.
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I bought a HID kit from XenonSupply a few weeks ago, installed it following their video exactly, and it's been working fine so far but yesterday the left bulb stopped turning on.
I opened the hood and made sure everything was still connected and it was. After opening the hood, I noticed the passenger side ballast (the working one) was buzzing and the driver side ballast wasn't buzzing (and not working).
After getting in my car, I turned my lights off and on about 10-20 times and FINALLY both turned on. But now, sometimes when I turn my car on, they both turn on OR only the passenger side turns on.
I called XenonSupply and they told me it's a bad connection with the grounding wire, but my friend who knows a lot more about how cars work than I do looked at it and told me the connection was fine, but the ballast is probably bad.
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JUst installed Xenon Supply HID fog lights and Low beams with separate relay harnesses.
My HID low beams look great and everything works fine but...
my HID fogs dont turn off, even if the cars off, keys out of the ignition and the the fog light switch on the steering column is in the off position.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I went to start the car today and it will turn over but doesn't start. I tried to see if it had any codes but not codes present. What should I try? It has 82k and I am original owner. What does the 100k warranty cover?
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Yesterday I took my car out, stopped at a gas station and the car wouldn't start. When trying to start it, everything inside would come on but it would just click. We were able to jump start it. After that I was able to start it 2 more times. the next time i tried to start it, it did the same thing, but the jump didn't work. We went and bought a new battery and it still isn't starting. It isn't clicking anymore though. It kinda hums when it tries to turn over. Does this seem like a starter issue?
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Noticed while standing still there is a knocking when I turn the wheel. Also hear a know when driving and I hit bumps. mostly noticeable when going slow.
I'm at 104,000 kms and my mechanic says the rack and pinion is toast. I've never had to replace this on any car.
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