Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Starts To Fire Then Stops
Dec 6, 2012
It is not the brake switch. I can shift the transmission. Put key in ignition and turn to start. Engine starts to fire then stops and can hear starter turning while still holding key in start position. The car did start after many time and got home.
Tried to start again and no go. Warranty is done. I have read something on-line about cam position sensor? Last couple months had strange idle at stop light that went away and this can be also a symptom of the cam sensor.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS key ignition (no start button). When I turn the key (foot on brake), the engine tries to turn but very weakly and then stops. I do it again and again with same results. Sometimes I get a better response on the key turn but still wont start. After about 10 to 15 tries it will finally turn over and start. I purchased a new battery today but unfortunately that was not the problem as the car is still having problems.
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Ok.... So I took my car for a drive to see my friend, started normally....... After an hour or so I left and this time the car cranks but will not fire........ This same problem happened in the dead of winter...... So I remove the key and let the car sit for 15 minutes and then boom it starts as it normally would.........
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After pumping for a few seconds the pump stops because it thinks the tank is full. I have been searching for other 2011 Sonata owners with this problem but can't find any. I see it on older cars, something about charcoal pellets, but not on new cars. Could this be charcoal pellets on this car? The car is still new, why would this happen?
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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So it's happened a couple of times already when the temperature has dropped below 20 degrees my subwoofer stops working until the temperatures come back up.
Is there some sort of protection I should know about because I skimmed through the owner's manual and didn't see anything about it. Seems to work perfect what's the temperature back up later.
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Shown on a Corolla, but would work even better on a Prius because of the way the engine starts and stops while driving.
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Went to the mall the other day for a few hours, when I cam back out and when I went it start my car it would not start. Symptoms are weird, I can hear the starter begin to crank then it stops and the dash flickers on and off, interior and exterior lights flicker on and off, starter cranks on and off also. This keeps going until I push the start button again twice to turn the car off.
This keeps happening every time I try to start it. When I popped the hood I noticed the positive battery cover was open.. I closed it and when someone tried to start it for me the cover flew open. It was like 2 seconds after the starter cranked a master circuit breaker would trip, then reset over and over again.
Stranded on a Saturday, I had to join CAA online and request a tow to the dealership. The tow truck guy said I was the 4th push to start hyundai with exactly the same issues he had a call for that day. He went in the car vanished under the dash and got the car started. He would n't tell me what trick he did, but he said drive it to the dealer and leave it there as it was a one shot trick.
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Bought a 2012 Sonata GLS back on July 3rd. I've had 3 instances where I'll be running on cruise control, I'll disengage it and then when I go to resume it doesn't do anything. I can turn Cruise on and off but it will not Set nor Resume. I have to stop and turn the car off and then back on for it to work again. I have a service appointment this Saturday for an alignment issue so I'm going to have them check this out too.
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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I recently bought a 2001 f-350 xl 4 door with the 8 foot box it has the 5.4L triton v8. I was heading to a job up in northern Alberta about 10 hours away from where I live. On the drive I lost control of the truck on some black ice I was doing about 50 miles I went into the ditch but nothing crazy drove right out after. Now my truck won't do over 30 mph the engine starts to sputter and back fire I loose all my power, what's going on. At idle she revs fine but as soon as I put her into drive it's like she wants to die what can it be?
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I need to know the Fire order for the 2011 toyota camry se 2.5 L engine. so I can find which oxygen sensor I need to change. I m getting a P0137 code and it said is the bank 1 sensor 2. I think that is the one after the catalytic converter but need to find out for sure.
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I'm the second owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L with about 79,000 miles on it. I've had it for about 6 months and I go to get into my car this morning, and my car wouldn't start.
It starts to start but then cuts out and does a humming noise. I don't know if that counts as "turning over" because its a push start, but there were no clicking noises like it was trying to catch, just the hum. It also started making this same humming noise when I turn the car "on" without turning on the engine.
Everything works, my stereo, ac, headlights, taillights. I even tried jumping it and that did not work. We checked the fuses and they all look ok too.
I also put the key in the manual key hole in the center console while doing all this just to make sure.
Although it looks like the car is on, after I try to start it, the lights on the dash go out and my meters all turn on just as if the car is on, but the engine will not start. I can even shift the gears from parked to drive, neutral, etc and power steering works.
Finally after about an hour of messing with it, I gave up and tried to shut the car power off, and it wouldn't turn off! I went back n forth between the two on modes for a good 5-7 minutes before it FINALLY turned completely off and I was able to lock up and leave it...
*I have also had issues before where one or two dome lights randomly turn on when i unlock the car (with them set to OFF at all times). Maybe this is a minor electrical issue that turned into a bigger problem from ignoring it?
**I DO have an aftermarket stereo and alarm installed FYI.
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Every once in a while, turbo will not work. If I pull over a do a restart, it will work every time. It happened once about a year ago and now it seems to happen once every 5 starts. Bad wastegate? Covered under warranty?
2012 with 87k
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0t. I get a humming noise that starts out faint but gets very loud. This happens with the ac on and while coming to a stop or while stopped.
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The truck is a 2002 F450 7.3 diesel with about 120k Miles.
While driving from 45-70Mph the truck engine stops for about 1 second and starts back up by itself. I thought the problem was the cps so I replaced it with a ford CPS. Today the problem still persists. The truck engine turns off and comes back on, the tach drops to 0 rpm and so does the speed.
The Check Engine Light comes on and so does the water in fuel light and so does the Check Gage light. After I turn off the truck and start it back up the truck does not show the lights.
I believe I found the issue, but can't look into it today. While I was moving some of the wires on the truck I found out that if I move the red/black bunch just a little bit the truck shuts off and comes back on when i let it go.
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When driving my 2013 Sonata with the rear windows open the deck below the back window starts vibrating horribly. You can actually see it moving up and down. If I also have the stereo on the vibrations distort the sound something awful. Close the window and the vibration goes away. Is it a defect, and is there a quick fix? Only problem with the car so far.
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I started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I have a 98 Chrysler Concord Lxi with a 3.2 L V6. In the summer time when its hot The car will get warmer than normal (I have figured out that one of the cooling fans is out and needs to be replaced). That said. after running for a few hours on the highway and if sat idle with the temperature raised, if I shut the car off 9 times out of 10 when I go to restart the car it will crank and crank but will not fire. My guess is the computer shuts the fuel off.
I have to wait about 30 minutes and it will start. Sometimes it will start very rough with a carbon smell and the need to idle it high until it smooths out. Other times It will start with out having to wait but the idle is again rough and can smell carbon. I have looked online and found some have a solution of releasing the pressure of the fuel line as it could be a symptom of vapor lock. I have tried this and no pressure is released ( I have disconnected A/C Lines on previous cars only to find a large BOOM a mess in the garage and in my shorts!) so I know I am releasing the right Scraeder valve.
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