This is a intermittent issue. While either parked but mostly at stop lights I'll notice the engine shudder and shake very hard. It's done it about a handful of times and sometimes the AC is on and sometimes it isn't.
I have a 2011 SE ...
My car has developed a strange engine/transmission shudder that occurs only between the temps of 32-50F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.
If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (50F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.
I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.
A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
Been trying to save my miles on my 2011 GLS because I'm right at 100k (99.2K to be exact) and had a feeling something would be going wrong soon. Already had short block replacement, both CV axles replaced, steering columns, seized calipers, transmission sensors, and other repairs all done under warranty work for this stinker.
Driving to work today hear a clunk as I am driving uphill, tachometer immediately goes to zero, engine begins violently shaking, and traction control light comes on for some reason. Had my OBD scanner already plugged in and it pulls P0336 code for a crankshaft position sensor. Fortunately was close enough to home so that I drove it back and took the train to work. Probably going to take it to dealership tonight. The clunk and violent idle leads me to believe its more than a sensor problem. Car has had issues shifting over past month, but was so sporadic and not able to ever be replicated. Would maybe have a hard shift once every 2 weeks. That's about it.
I just had my 15000 check-up for Sonata 2011 a week ago, everything went fine. The issue I am currently having is that I notice that when I drive on the freeway, after cruising for a distance and then stepping on accelerator to speed up, there is occasionally a knocking or shudder that occurs initially and then goes away. This seems to be reproducible if I accelerate, then let the car cruise, then accelerate again. But it does not happen every single time. I haven't noticed it too much on city streets.
My question is what may be causing it. If I were to take it back to the dealer, how much will I be charged for the inspection and if they were to find nothing wrong. Additionally, should I take it to the same dealer (which is about 20mi away), or a closer one?
Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
Having problem when driving on the highway? Today I noticed the side view mirror glass shakes and moves quite a bit, while the passenger mirror appears to be rock solid. Any easy fix? I have 15k on the car - would this be something covered by warranty? 2013
View 2 RepliesI've recently noticed that my 2013 hyundai sonata would start vibrating/shaking, if I were to release my brakes slowly (It doesn't shake if I release it fast). I was wondering if there are any problems with that?
I do not feel any vibration in the car when I press /slam the brake. The only time I feel the car shaking is when I would slowly release the brake.
Well, my MIL came on, and hasn't left (yes, my gas cap was tightened). My bigger concern is that when I'm on the highway, if I have to slow down for traffic, upon accelerating again, when I hit 108km/h, the car does a crazy death shudder, and slows down...I have to release the pedal, let it slow to around 95, and then I can accelerate again. I'm gunna wait and see if the light goes off after a couple of days, but this is worrying.
View 25 RepliesMy 2002 Tacoma has recently been experiencing transmission trouble. Between 45-60 MPH at various revs, the truck begins to shudder and shake. The severity depends on how aggressively I accelerate. After several weeks of this, the check engine light came on. It has remained on since, except when it flashes if I accelerate too quickly. Throughout the shuddering, the revs remain constant. By roughly 60-70 mph, the truck runs smoothly again. In a (possibly) unrelated note, the parking brake indicator is lit almost constantly, particularly in wet or cold weather, although the brake is not engaged.
View 7 RepliesI just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
View 8 RepliesBought a 2012 Azera a couple of weeks ago. When the engine is cold and I shift into reverse there's a loud bang and the whole car shakes. Feels as if I've been run into, or the transmission is going to fall out. I have also noticed some delayed upshifting (doesn't accelerate for a second but then really takes off). My 2007 Sonata did that a little, so I thought maybe it was a Hyundai thing, but maybe not.
My main concern is the BANG into reverse. The dealer said they can't get me in for several days, and that they don't have loaners, but they "might" be able to get me something to drive while they look at it. Honestly, the service guy sounded skeptical, and I guess I imagined a little better/faster response for such a new car. I'm almost afraid to drive it right now, the bang is so violent.
I'm pretty upset about this, it's my first really nice car. Has some sort of transmission issue with a new Hyundai? Anything in particular I should look for, say, etc.?
Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
View 2 RepliesI have a Sonata 2011 YF , with 2.4 GDI and 58,000 miles. There is an engine's oil leakage dripping on the ground exactly from the area between the engine and the transmission gear box where probably the o-ring ( i assume) is placed. The car is no longer covered by warranty.
The workshop guy says that the O-ring (i am not sure what exactly is called in English) needs to be changed and that process will have to drop down the whole gearbox (which is expensive and rather unsafe to) , so i am thinking about any other solutions that might be a great deal (using engine oil with more thick viscosity 10W50, 10W60 since i am living in an extremely hot conditions)?
2011 Hyundai sonata ltd with 79k. Started having starter issue since yesterday. the engine will crank only just little and will not start. after few tries it may sometimes start normally.
View 4 RepliesMy car has almost 93,000 miles on it. This has happened randomly three times over the past 2 months. While I'm driving the engine will rev up to about 3k-4k rpms and then the whole car will turn off. While its happening I can't accelerate. If I start the car immediately after it shuts off the engine will turn over normally but the same thing will happen. I'll try to accelerate and the rpm's will hang around 3k-4k and shut off again. However if I wait a couple of minutes and try to start the car it will start and run normally. It happened this weekend and before that maybe 3 weeks ago, all 3 times so far on my way home from work.
To clarify when the car shuts down, the engine and everything else shuts down as too, I do still get some warning lights on my dash. I don't remember 100% but I think it was the EPS light and the oil light. My car doesn't have any issues with burning oil, and I change the oil pretty often.
I've brought it to the dealership and they were unable to find a cause. They gave me my car back and said if it keeps happening to bring it back. I've been reading about the engine recalls and my car is one of the effected one's according to my vin number. However my engine doesn't make any weird noises. There is no clunking sound or banging while the car is running and if the car does shut off, I can still get it going again. The dealership said they tested for it and my car passed.
I know that this issue is occurring, hence the recall, and it is actually happening to me. I have gone off the road three times now due to my engine simply dying while the car is in motion. I drive a 2013 Sonata with 32k miles on it that I bought months ago, and the car has been to the dealer 4 times for the same issue, yet they are telling me NOTHING is wrong with the car. The service manager and general manager of the dealership no longer want to deal with me,they said if the computer doesn't show the problem, then there is no problem. The car's radio won't turn on, the bluetooth feature doesn't work, it has to be jump started 4-5 times a week and half the time it dies while idling after being started. The tire pressure sensor light just came on even though that was tested, and when the engine dies, no check engine light or ECM lights come on. BUT, NOTHING is wrong with the car!!
View 4 RepliesI have sonata GDi model 2012 ..the engine is always knocking during driving the car ..I changed the spark plugs, Fuel pump, cleaned throttle as well..some of my friends said it could be about octane range (IKA) but I put it a high quality of gasoline ( premium) and still knocking. There's one thing I haven't checked yet ,is ( injector nozzle) ..
View 2 RepliesHad the 2011 Sonata 2.0T for two months. Was running perfectly. The today engine light stayed on. Disconnected battery then started again. Still on. Guy said check gas cap. Added gas AND disconnected battery again. Light stayed off on way home. Then started it again and it is on again. No overheating. Oil is ok. etc. everything else works just fine.
View 11 RepliesI hear a rattle or growl from the engine at 2,000 - 2500 rpm. Car performs fine. What it may be?
View 2 Replies