Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Dying While Car Is In Motion
Oct 23, 2015
I know that this issue is occurring, hence the recall, and it is actually happening to me. I have gone off the road three times now due to my engine simply dying while the car is in motion. I drive a 2013 Sonata with 32k miles on it that I bought months ago, and the car has been to the dealer 4 times for the same issue, yet they are telling me NOTHING is wrong with the car. The service manager and general manager of the dealership no longer want to deal with me,they said if the computer doesn't show the problem, then there is no problem. The car's radio won't turn on, the bluetooth feature doesn't work, it has to be jump started 4-5 times a week and half the time it dies while idling after being started. The tire pressure sensor light just came on even though that was tested, and when the engine dies, no check engine light or ECM lights come on. BUT, NOTHING is wrong with the car!!
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I have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L v6 ... Vehicle has 192,000 miles and generally runs well but has started stalling out on the highway. Seems like it stalls more when turning on an exit ramp or after going over a rough spot or pothole on the road but not always. Not sure if anything in particular leads up to it. The car stalls, the power steering and brakes become unresponsive, all the dashboard lights come on, and I have to pull over and stop completely to try restarting. Usually starts right back up but sometimes it takes several tries. Took it to AAA auto care but since they couldn't recreate the problem, they weren't able to identify the issue. They did say that their diagnostic equipment was unable to access/communicate with the on-board computer for the engine if that makes any sense.
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i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
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I just took delivery of a 2015 pewter gray base azera. It is my second one as I purchased a leftover 2013 last year. The sonatas had to go just not comfortable enough for me. Between 1000-1500 rpm whether in motion or in park I get a sound like an owl hooting. my 2013 does not do it.i can make it do it any time I want. This is really annoying in traffic it actually can be heard with the radio on. the dealer said it is normal and let me drive another new one on a test drive and it does it too. Almost sounds like it could be a harmonic noise in the intake or exhaust. Going to see if I can pinpoint it this weekend. I am very disappointed as my 2013 has 36k on it and other than the rattle at start up no issues.
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My JBL head unit keeps dying. My 2011 Prius Three, not III, is currently on its 3rd head unit, and this one is dying also. About once per year, the head unit starts displaying gibberish on the LCD, often with horizontal lines marching upwards. As the problem persists, the display gets worse. Finally, the buttons start malfunctioning. Pressing the power button might eject a CD, pushing a radio preset button might switch to CD, etc.
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I have a Sonata 2011 YF , with 2.4 GDI and 58,000 miles. There is an engine's oil leakage dripping on the ground exactly from the area between the engine and the transmission gear box where probably the o-ring ( i assume) is placed. The car is no longer covered by warranty.
The workshop guy says that the O-ring (i am not sure what exactly is called in English) needs to be changed and that process will have to drop down the whole gearbox (which is expensive and rather unsafe to) , so i am thinking about any other solutions that might be a great deal (using engine oil with more thick viscosity 10W50, 10W60 since i am living in an extremely hot conditions)?
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2011 Hyundai sonata ltd with 79k. Started having starter issue since yesterday. the engine will crank only just little and will not start. after few tries it may sometimes start normally.
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My car has almost 93,000 miles on it. This has happened randomly three times over the past 2 months. While I'm driving the engine will rev up to about 3k-4k rpms and then the whole car will turn off. While its happening I can't accelerate. If I start the car immediately after it shuts off the engine will turn over normally but the same thing will happen. I'll try to accelerate and the rpm's will hang around 3k-4k and shut off again. However if I wait a couple of minutes and try to start the car it will start and run normally. It happened this weekend and before that maybe 3 weeks ago, all 3 times so far on my way home from work.
To clarify when the car shuts down, the engine and everything else shuts down as too, I do still get some warning lights on my dash. I don't remember 100% but I think it was the EPS light and the oil light. My car doesn't have any issues with burning oil, and I change the oil pretty often.
I've brought it to the dealership and they were unable to find a cause. They gave me my car back and said if it keeps happening to bring it back. I've been reading about the engine recalls and my car is one of the effected one's according to my vin number. However my engine doesn't make any weird noises. There is no clunking sound or banging while the car is running and if the car does shut off, I can still get it going again. The dealership said they tested for it and my car passed.
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I have sonata GDi model 2012 ..the engine is always knocking during driving the car ..I changed the spark plugs, Fuel pump, cleaned throttle as well..some of my friends said it could be about octane range (IKA) but I put it a high quality of gasoline ( premium) and still knocking. There's one thing I haven't checked yet ,is ( injector nozzle) ..
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Had the 2011 Sonata 2.0T for two months. Was running perfectly. The today engine light stayed on. Disconnected battery then started again. Still on. Guy said check gas cap. Added gas AND disconnected battery again. Light stayed off on way home. Then started it again and it is on again. No overheating. Oil is ok. etc. everything else works just fine.
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I hear a rattle or growl from the engine at 2,000 - 2500 rpm. Car performs fine. What it may be?
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I was one of the many lucky ones to have my engine stall on me, and just had the replacement put in back in April. Drove the car from San Diego to Phoenix, and everything was fine.
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed some gas vapor fumes coming into the car usually during the initial start up, and then the smell would go away.
I read some old threads from 2011 about the pcv hose causing this issue for many owners, so I replaced both the valve and the hose. This hasn't solved the issue, and when i run the vehicle and inspect under the hood, the fume smell is still coming from that vicinity.
Is there some other valve nearby that i should inspect or replace?
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All of a sudden today (it's a foggy night) when i press the start button it cranks but will not engage the engine. It has 67000 miles on it.
I am assuming it is not the brake pedal issue that many have here. Battery is fine i think because it turns on the air condition lights and everything, i even tried to jump start. Gasoline, it has still 75 miles to go, I don't know if the gauge is wrong.
Any plugs that i need to check? 2011 Sonanta SE ....
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This is a intermittent issue. While either parked but mostly at stop lights I'll notice the engine shudder and shake very hard. It's done it about a handful of times and sometimes the AC is on and sometimes it isn't.
I have a 2011 SE ...
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My 'check engine' warning light just came on after only 12,000 km on my 2011 GLS. What emission control part would be the first to fail? I ran my 06 Sonata 100,000 km+ and never saw any warning lights! And no, it's not a loose gas cap!
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2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
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Having a weird noise coming from the engine of my 2011 Hyundai Sonata , mom is thinking it's the timing chain , is there a way to check the timing chain before taking it into the shop ?
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Engine make a sucking noise when turned off? My engine sounds fine but when I open the hood and turn it off I can hear it make a sucking sound almost like its releasing pressure. I can only hear it when im outside and someone turns the car off. Is this normal? Also, how often do you all add coolant? I added mine to full maybe like 5 months ago and today when I added oil to the car it was down to the halfway mark. I hadn't run the car all day and just moved it inside the garage. Does the car not running make the fluid drop or could I have a leak?
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I'm at a loss here with my 2011 Sonata. 2.0 Engine blew last Oct took dealer 3 months to finally get that taken care of. Had car back for just a month and while hammering down to pass a truck something popped and and the car lost about 1/2 its power.Car would only do about 75 mph floored no power.Gut less on hills even more so.Took to local Hyundai dealer and the performed the usual test etc said they were getting a P0299 code supercharger under boost code.Other test revealed a internal intermittent short with the turbo,so they decided to change turbo.After new turbo installed car has slightly more power but nothing compared to what it should be.Can't even hit 100 mph with it ! Told dealer car still not right,they told me all is working as it should be lol...When ya get on the gas ya hear a slight whining noise like a turbo whining it made this noise before they change old turbo as well.To me it as is there is no boost what so ever but yet they say all is ok..
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