I had a problem recently with my '11 SE. It only did it once and hasn't done it since. I pushed the START button and the engine cranked over but it never started. I let it crank for about 5 seconds before I pushed the switch again to make it stop. The next time I pushed the START button the engine started.
View 5 RepliesHad an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
2003 SC430 with ~140k miles. Friday night, stopped at a gas station and left the car running for about 15 minutes. Then stopped the engine and left the radio on for about 20 minutes. Then the car wouldn't start- cranked weakly, then began clicking. Jumped the car- took about five minutes before it would turn over again.
Then, after disconnecting the cables and running for only about a minute, it cranked strongly twice in the span of a minute. I found that strange, not believing that it had properly charged up that quickly. Drove to an auto parts store, asked them to check the battery and such. Battery said good, alternator said voltage regulator failure.
After about 10 minutes, went to drive off, not planning to stop until I got to my destination. The car wouldn't start again, same weak turning and then clicking (note- this after about a fifteen minute drive, as opposed to the first one minute of charging after which it started twice just fine!). So I was surprised that it wouldn't crank.
Then I drove it all weekend without a problem (5-6 stops and starts). Then Monday night after I parked it, I went back to check it and it didn't start (same weak turn, and then clicking). Tuesday morning, I tried twice and got weak turn & clicking, then it turned a little more strongly and started.
My guesses:
-don't think my battery is bad
-don't think my battery really was fully discharged and then suddenly recharged even though it has seemed that way, in such short time frames
-my alternator claims to be bad (voltage regulation)
-maybe I have some sort of loose connection on the backside of the battery? (the terminals look solid)
But I didn't shake or bump the car, or do anything for the cabling to be loose/bad Monday night, and then start Tuesday morning. But perhaps the very effort of trying to start the car is enough to shake a connection back together?
(I don't think this is at all related to my blower post- my fan seems to be kicking on quite frequently while I drive, still trying to sort that out).
I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
Today, after making a few stops at local stores, I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. It sounded like the engine did turn over once, but would stall out immediately. I ended up calling a tow truck, but when he showed up an hour later, the engine started first try. Except now the engine light was on.
I should note that a friend was watching my car for last week while I was out of town and she said she had no issues with the car. At first I thought maybe she forgot to put the gas cap on, but that's not it.
Woke up to go to class, car cranked normally but just won't start up. I put gas in it from our lawnmower shed (regular unleaded) but I know it wasn't that empty... what gives? It's making the normal noise it does when you go to start the engine but it just won't stay running/turn over?
View 17 RepliesAbout a month ago, fuel pump was replaced by repair shop due to car will not start at all. Car seems to be working fine after the work done for about 3 weeks. One day of last week, car will not start immediately, it had to be cranked a couple times so it can start. It happens all the time when i leave the car off more than 5-10 minutes. If I stop the car and start right after, it starts quickly. Anyway I called the same repair shop, they told me battery may be started dying. I measured Voltage on the battery during cranking it goes down to 11V and goes back up to 12.9V after car starts. I have replaced the battery with the new one for precautionary.That did not fix the problem.
View 4 RepliesWas out cleaning my windows today, and had the key turned to the accessory position so I could lower and raise the windows while I cleaned them. The passenger side rear window wouldn't lower (either from the switch on the passenger door itself, or the switch on the master panel on the driver's door.) The other 3 windows worked just fine. I immediately started planning on when I could get the car to the dealer
On a lark, I started the car to see if that made a difference and the passenger side rear window worked just fine. I then shut off the car, put the key back to the accessory position, and the window continued to work just fine.
2011 Hyundai sonata ltd with 79k. Started having starter issue since yesterday. the engine will crank only just little and will not start. after few tries it may sometimes start normally.
View 4 RepliesMy sonata 2011 yf suddenly engine shut down in 20 - 30 meters after start or stop...
View 6 RepliesAfter a long hour working day, B6 could not start in company's parking lot. The temperature is not cold, the battery is not dead, has plenty gas in the tank. The starter cranked but couldn't start the engine. What should I try? Change the starter? if i need parts, I will grab from store and try to fix it in parking lot. if not, I have to tow it to dealer tomorrow.
View 13 RepliesI got the 2013 sonata gls, 5700 kms.
I live in southern Ontario, in Canada and the weather is starting to drop here in the mornings and nights.
The mornings are not 0-3 degrees Celsius and at night a little bit colder.
I have notice that when I start my car in the morning it seems like the engine takes a little big longer to start. It takes no longer than 2 seconds to actually start, it just sounds like its struggling a bit more.
I notice once i drive the car for a bit, park and then start the car again it seems like it fires up quicker and without ease.
Is this due to the drop in weather? or something else at play here.
Also it seems like in the mornings when the car has been sitting for like 9 hours, after it starts the engine sounds louder than usual.
for the last 5 months, i have not been able to use my 2012 sonata which broke down in October last year and has since been in the dealership in Dubai and they have never taken any action. what happened is that the car just stopped when I was driving at normal highway speed. no indication, warning or anything came up. the car just stopped and did not start any more.
when the car got back to the dealership they called me after a few days and told me that my engine block is completely cracked and the whole engine has to be replaced. I don't understand this, the car was only about 16 moths old and has 23,000km on the odometer. the car was always serviced and never driven erratically. until today no one from Hyundai took any stance to the problem
1995 ranger. 132k miles. I have been having an intermittent starting problem. I replaced the battery which was 3+ years old. I thought that cured the issue because the truck started without a problem then, the same problem occurred. I started the truck and drove about 10 miles. Parked it for about 2 hrs. Went out and tries to start it. The engine cranked, but would not start.
Tried a second time and would not start.
I turned on the lights and proved the battery was good.
Tried to start it and it turned over.
I took it to a shop and they could not fine the problem.
I asked if it was a possible problem with the solenoid, alternator,
They said if it was those the engine would not turn and you would just hear a click.
They drove it for a week and it happened to their technician but he said he did not have his equipment to check it.
He got it started after a few tries as I did and got it back to the shop. Ran a scan.
Four codes returned that really did not identify the issue - P0231, P1701, P0340, P1270. They cleared the codes and drove it again. They checked the codes. It showed code P0340. The shop says the code states to replace the cam position sensor and installing an updated DPFE sensor.
I have been driving it for about a week on and the problem has not resurfaced yet. A friend whom I work with does some car maintenance told me it is a dead spot on the starter and to replace it.
This 2005 LeSabre with a 3.8 v-6 ran fine but had a marginal battery. Then the key got left on overnight leaving the battery totally dead. After jumping the battery and letting it charge, the engine cranked fine but refused to start. Haven't had a chance to check for fuel or spark. Why would a dead battery trigger this no start condition?
View 2 RepliesMy 2k Passat has 130k on it. I have done regular oil changes and had the timing belt done 6 months ago. It is in Las vegas right now, as it wouldnt start, and I was informed that it needs a new engine. It ended up starting when the guys at the shop squirted tranny fluid down a plug hole...but has been smoking. I was told this means I have a blown head and the engine would have to be torn apart to check out the bottom half.
I am almost inclined to continue paying to store the car until I pay off the 5k that I still owe on it, just to turn around and junk it...but I feel like maybe that would be rash.
Quite literally just received the buyout agreement yesterday. My wife went out this morning to leave and the car turned over a couple times but wouldn't start. I went out and tried it and it would turn over, the engine would (pretty violently) bounce, but wouldn't start. The 4th or 5th try (as you see in the video below) started. Turned it off and tried again and just click, click, click. Seems like a classic case of a dead battery? Not seen a GTI react so violently to having a low battery before though...
View 4 RepliesHere's the story, got in my car yesterday and the AC wasnt working, after driving for about 20 minutes in traffic, the AC came back on, about 5 mins and half a mile later, the engine shut off and wouldn't start up again. Had the car towed to the closest garage (not a VW mechanic). This morning, he tried to start it and it fired right up with no problems. He drove it and let it run and everything seemed fine. He ran diagnostics on it and said the computer didn't detect any problems. Picked up the car, and now the AC is blowing hot air, but the engine seems to be running ok.
View 4 Replieso my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
I am working on a99 2500 4x4. 7.4 Replaced 230,000 engine with 90,000 engine.I had to fix a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sensor. Replaced it and delivered it.
Ran great Gal was driving at 50mph. Engine died and wouldn't start. She fried starter trying. Replaced starter, has no codes. 59-60 lbs fuel pressure with key on then holds 50 lbs. 60 lbs while cranking. Has spark at plug. NO security light staying lit or flashing. flashes then goes out. Smell of unburnt fuel is strong. Also no oil pressure at gauge when cranking and her key fob doesn't work.
My 2011 prius and it wouldn't start and on the dashboard it shows engine image that's all no light nothing
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