Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine / Transmission Shudder When Car Is Warming Up
Mar 26, 2015
My car has developed a strange engine/transmission shudder that occurs only between the temps of 32-50F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.
If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (50F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.
I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.
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This is a intermittent issue. While either parked but mostly at stop lights I'll notice the engine shudder and shake very hard. It's done it about a handful of times and sometimes the AC is on and sometimes it isn't.
I have a 2011 SE ...
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I have a Sonata 2011 YF , with 2.4 GDI and 58,000 miles. There is an engine's oil leakage dripping on the ground exactly from the area between the engine and the transmission gear box where probably the o-ring ( i assume) is placed. The car is no longer covered by warranty.
The workshop guy says that the O-ring (i am not sure what exactly is called in English) needs to be changed and that process will have to drop down the whole gearbox (which is expensive and rather unsafe to) , so i am thinking about any other solutions that might be a great deal (using engine oil with more thick viscosity 10W50, 10W60 since i am living in an extremely hot conditions)?
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I just had my 15000 check-up for Sonata 2011 a week ago, everything went fine. The issue I am currently having is that I notice that when I drive on the freeway, after cruising for a distance and then stepping on accelerator to speed up, there is occasionally a knocking or shudder that occurs initially and then goes away. This seems to be reproducible if I accelerate, then let the car cruise, then accelerate again. But it does not happen every single time. I haven't noticed it too much on city streets.
My question is what may be causing it. If I were to take it back to the dealer, how much will I be charged for the inspection and if they were to find nothing wrong. Additionally, should I take it to the same dealer (which is about 20mi away), or a closer one?
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 127k miles on it and I'm trying to diagnose a problem, possibly with transmission.
Since I bought the car at 115k miles I started hearing a noise from engine zone, which appears quite rarely. Noise resembles valve knocking, appears mostly at traffic lights and colder weather (evenings). I was trying to catch the sound by recording it while using emergency brake at D pos. but the sound disappeared right after releasing brake pedal.
Describing in a different way it sounds like a propeller touching something with its blades. The sound also appears at 1900rpm on any gear (mostly when slightly releasing gas pedal around 2k rpm).
While trying to understand/fix the issue I used:
- liqui moly valve cleaner and engine flush
- techtron injection cleaner
- replaced spark plugs
These operations had almost 0 effect on car behavior. The symptoms boil down to a torque converter. Transmission shifts fine, I was going to try transmission fluid change ( a full change by dealer), however it may do more harm, so I'm not sure yet.
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I own a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. Two months ago I realized that my transmission shift occasionally while I am driving, especially when the weather is cold and I park my vehicle for more than one day. Then my engine check light came, after two days it went off. I went to the dealership and ask for a multi-point inspection (without telling the inspector the transmission problem), they recommend a transmission fluid flush, then I went to an auto part shop to ask for reading engine check light code, they see P0711. After researches online, I understand this code is about transmission fluid or transmission fluid sensor defect.
My question is that, would a dirty transmission fluid cause the P0711 code, as some people stated online ?
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Well, my MIL came on, and hasn't left (yes, my gas cap was tightened). My bigger concern is that when I'm on the highway, if I have to slow down for traffic, upon accelerating again, when I hit 108km/h, the car does a crazy death shudder, and slows down...I have to release the pedal, let it slow to around 95, and then I can accelerate again. I'm gunna wait and see if the light goes off after a couple of days, but this is worrying.
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I have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
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Today morning I just noticed that while I was warming up my 2015 sonata 2.0T limited, I found there is uneven exhaust flow. Driver side exhaust has more flow than passenger side exhaust. I could feel flow barely from passenger side exhaust. I am just wondering if it is normal or I should take my car to service.
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I've been driving my wife's sonata to work this week and notice as I start to slow down at around 20MPH the car almost surges a little bit. Maybe I am not diagnosing it correctly but it's almost like it's downshifting rough.
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2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
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I have the Sonata 2013 GLS and I've noticed the transmission is slipping. I drive it hard.
So the guy said he was going to call me, never called me back. I called 3 times and no one knew what the 30k service included. it was a simple question, I just asked if they could check when was the last time I had a transmission service.
I tried checking the level but it has no dipstick. what should I do? my car has 54,000.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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This morning while driving on the freeway, the the transmission stopped shifting into 6th gear. This was at 70 mph. The only way it would shift up to 6th is by using the manual mode, however after manually shifting to 6th I moved the stick back over and it immediately downshifted to 5th at 70+ mph. Concerned, I pulled off and turned the engine off. After i restarted the engine, I continued to my destination and the trans shifted up to 6th on its own. The car has never done this.
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I was wondering if there is a dipstick for checking the automatic transaxle fluid. I have searched my car and the owner's manual but have yet to find anything that addresses the auto transaxle. If I have managed to overlook it just give me a page number in the manual.
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2011 w/ 80k 6 spd man w/column start.
The last couple of months getting first crank attempt symptoms. Cranks fine but won't turn over. 2nd time fine. No OBD codes. Other times np at all. But today big problem.
- Started fine @ 5 degrees F (unusual for area)
- Warmed up fine
- Left in parking lot for 10 min
- Attempted start, could not. Then again the next 8 times.
- Finally wore down battery. Had it towed to dealer (I could feel the pocket suction)
Explained issue to dealer. 3 hrs later they called. Said it was the battery, had only 290 cc left. I explained before I wore it down there was plenty of power avail. Whatever, screwed anyway -- pay $115 diag or $149 for battery, just take the battery I said.
Took it home, seems fine for now but explained if I have to take my very sick son out in cold weather tomorrow there will be repercussions. Anyway, the whole situation is bizarre.
I've looked on other threads with auto tns and brake switch issues but that does not apply to manual. Only requirement is step on clutch. I read about crankshaft sensor but no codes. Only thing I found was perhaps loose fuses or wiring but dealer said they checked that and whole system is good.
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Have this problem when the temperature is below 30F? This problem appeared one day when the car was parked outside overnight and the temperature dipped into the 20s. It refuses to upshift to 2nd from 1st unless driven for 10 minutes or so and will grind when downshifting to first even from 3 mph. The upshift to 2nd feels like a wall blocking so I just end up shifting to 3rd straight from 1st until it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so. Worn syncros? Shift fork/linkages? Dragging clutch? I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the fluid first but new fluid will not fix mechanical problems if indeed that's what it is. Strange part is that both 1 and 2 both started to have the problem at the same time so how can both synchros go out at once and this problem only appeared this winter and not last winter so it doesn't seem like its an inherent problem from the start.
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I have a 2014 Sonata GLS. This has happened 3 times so far. I often drive around looking at houses for sale etc. Sometimes I drive for 1 to 2 hours, usually low speeds under 20 to 30 mph.
So I come to a stop, start to accelerate and notice my transmission is having trouble engaging, I liken it to transmission slip, like winding up to get the vehicle to move. I also notice my dash gear indicator light is blank. No "D" in the display box, just empty. I stop at a safe spot, put the vehicle in park.
It will not release from park when I try to shift into gear again. I decided turn the vehicle off, re-start the car, and all is well, tranny works, dash indicator is back and all is good.
I drive the vehicle mostly at highway speeds to/from work with no issues. Each time this has happened its after driving at that low speed for at least an hour and a half or more. I haven't taken it to dealer yet.
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Car intermittently shifts very rough and jerky. Just took on a long vacation trip and every AM when it was cold it shifted hard them smoothed out once warmed up. Got home and now it is doing it all the time. Dealer said do the trans flush...I did it and it made no difference. Is this a common problem with this model? Mileage is 39,800...not sure I want to buy this car at lease end.
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2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
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So my car has recently begun having an issue shifting hard into drive after it warms up. It doesnt shift weird in any other gear or while driving. I had the trans temp sensor replaced last year under the tsb due to it shifting weird in all gears and a CEL. I was thinking either the fluid level or another bad sensor.
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