Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Shaking When Driving Uphill / Tachometer Immediately Goes To Zero
Aug 31, 2016
Been trying to save my miles on my 2011 GLS because I'm right at 100k (99.2K to be exact) and had a feeling something would be going wrong soon. Already had short block replacement, both CV axles replaced, steering columns, seized calipers, transmission sensors, and other repairs all done under warranty work for this stinker.
Driving to work today hear a clunk as I am driving uphill, tachometer immediately goes to zero, engine begins violently shaking, and traction control light comes on for some reason. Had my OBD scanner already plugged in and it pulls P0336 code for a crankshaft position sensor. Fortunately was close enough to home so that I drove it back and took the train to work. Probably going to take it to dealership tonight. The clunk and violent idle leads me to believe its more than a sensor problem. Car has had issues shifting over past month, but was so sporadic and not able to ever be replicated. Would maybe have a hard shift once every 2 weeks. That's about it.
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This is a intermittent issue. While either parked but mostly at stop lights I'll notice the engine shudder and shake very hard. It's done it about a handful of times and sometimes the AC is on and sometimes it isn't.
I have a 2011 SE ...
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When I drive normally using the pedal, I can see slight movements of the tachometer as the torque converter locks and unlocks (this is normal when lifting off the gas and pushing it again). However, I notice when my cruise is set that my tach doesn't move at all, it doesn't matter if I'm going downhill, uphill, or whatever. It stays frozen wherever it's at when I hit the "set" button. Maybe the torque converter stays locked when the cruise is set? This isn't a problem, it just seems odd to me.
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A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
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I travel this interstate route often that is somewhat hilly. I always use cruise control. When I got my 2007 Sonata (I4) 4 speed A/T and traveled on this road I never noticed much down shifting. Later my daughter bought a 2010 Sonata (I4) 5 speed A/T, and on this road I noticed the Xmission downshifting sometimes. When I got my 2013 (I4) 6 speed A/T, I started noticing it more often downshifting. I'm sure thats since the final drive ratio is much higher in each successive car. When my wife is driving she doesn't notice but I can tell even from the passenger seat. I can stop the downshifting by putting it in manual mode. but I see the RPMs increase somewhat. I assume thats from the TC lockup disengaging and the CC trying to maintain speed if a long hill. I suppose if the hill was long enough and steep enough that I would eventually lose speed but that doesn't occur(very much). If that is more economically that letting it just go ahead and downshift. Am I the only one annoyed by this constant up/down shifting?
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I have sonata GDi model 2012 ..the engine is always knocking during driving the car ..I changed the spark plugs, Fuel pump, cleaned throttle as well..some of my friends said it could be about octane range (IKA) but I put it a high quality of gasoline ( premium) and still knocking. There's one thing I haven't checked yet ,is ( injector nozzle) ..
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with ~40,000 miles (certified pre-owned). I heard a metallic pop sound while driving but did not see anything on the road or in the rear view mirror. Then I got on a highway and couple of minutes later there was no response from the engine (i could feel the car decelerating). Then the engine started responding again. A couple minutes later, again there was reduced response but this time I got a bunch of lights (oil pressure, abs and a few others). I pulled over and tuned off the car. by this time only the oil pressure light was on.
I checked the oil which was near empty. I walked to a nearby gas station and bought oil and filled 2 quarts. Then I noticed that all oil was draining right through in a steady stream.
I had the car towed to a nearby Hyundai dealer. The dealer diagnosis was that there is no drain plug which may be because the last place the oil was changed (around 2-3 months back) did not install the plug properly. He also said that the engine is ruined and will have to be replace and asked me to contact my insurance company.
The last oil change was also done at a Hyundai dealer (a different one than the one that provided diagnosis). I checked my driveway and there are some oil stains, I haven't driven the car much recently and have recently moved into this place so am not sure if these are new or old. What are my options. I don't have the the thousands required for a new engine.
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Tonight while driving I heard a rattling noise under the engine, come to a stop and the engine cuts off. I pop the hood, get a jump and nothing. So I check the oil and it is dry... I changed it 4 months ago myself, it is a mystery how it leaked. No light came on, no oil leaks anywhere..
Is there any hope in having the engine turn over again? If so how should I go about trying to turn it? Engine only has 61000 miles on it.
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for the last 5 months, i have not been able to use my 2012 sonata which broke down in October last year and has since been in the dealership in Dubai and they have never taken any action. what happened is that the car just stopped when I was driving at normal highway speed. no indication, warning or anything came up. the car just stopped and did not start any more.
when the car got back to the dealership they called me after a few days and told me that my engine block is completely cracked and the whole engine has to be replaced. I don't understand this, the car was only about 16 moths old and has 23,000km on the odometer. the car was always serviced and never driven erratically. until today no one from Hyundai took any stance to the problem
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Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
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Having problem when driving on the highway? Today I noticed the side view mirror glass shakes and moves quite a bit, while the passenger mirror appears to be rock solid. Any easy fix? I have 15k on the car - would this be something covered by warranty? 2013
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I have 2011 Tiguan SE 4motion,that i purchased 5 months ago just got out of warranty
First problem i had with this car was the failed Ignition coil on one cylinder one month ago,suddenly while driving on the high way the car was shaking if goes above 40 MPH and check engine light came on, I continued to drive slowly till i made it home , and changed coil the next day and everything was fine for few weeks , i was planning on changing the rest of the coils and spark plugs.
Recently after leaving work i tried to start the car and it won't start it made weird loud crank noise but no start, check engine light came on , showed multiple cylinder mis fire code and random mis fire code
I changed remaining coils and spark plugs just to see if it will fix the problem ,it wouldn't start. Towed it to my regular mechanic after few failed attempt to start it he checks compression and was non on any cylinder, I researched online and came across common complaints of Timing chain Tensioner Failures and i thought it has to be same problem with my car.
Mechanic removed the timing chain cover to see if chain slipped or tensioner failed and they were fine and everything is in place with no timing fault, I checked the tensioner myself yesterday with him and still working fine. Now we deciding on opening the engine and check for damage Or just Replacing with used engine.
Having situation of engine failure WITHOUT having the timing chain fail due to tensioner failure? The misfires that occurred 1 month earlier could have caused enough damage that went catastrophic a month later? I had oil changed by mechanic with recommended Mobil one oil for VW 4 months ago...
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I own a '96 Honda Accord EX (4 speed transmission) currently with 133,000 miles on it. Last February (2014) I downshifted the car while going up a hill (yes, I now know that was a bad idea) and the subsequent jerk was immediately followed by a check engine light. The code was P0715 for Turbine Speed Sensor Failure; I read up what I could on Google, and brought the car to a Honda Center a couple days later to have a diagnostic run. They said the transmission was still okay and working fine, but recommended a transmission flush to replace all the fluid and clean the filter/pan (I can't remember exactly), which I did. They said the transmission would continue to deteriorate and that I should be aware that it will probably fail at some point, but the flush should buy me some time. (I've since read about transmission flushes as well.)
Fast forward to now, the car is still driving okay and the check engine light has stayed off. The transmission shifts into every gear and has not caused me any issues, but I can tell it's getting jerkier. I've driven Sprinters with terrible transmissions where you can fully feel a 'thud' as it shifts and, my car is not there yet, but it's deteriorating. Work put into the car over the past two years includes replacing 2 wheel bearings, fixing the CV axle, and replacing the spark plugs, with maintenance and the flush it ... (it had only 108,000 miles in 2012 and has since been cross-country twice).
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I've recently noticed that my 2013 hyundai sonata would start vibrating/shaking, if I were to release my brakes slowly (It doesn't shake if I release it fast). I was wondering if there are any problems with that?
I do not feel any vibration in the car when I press /slam the brake. The only time I feel the car shaking is when I would slowly release the brake.
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I have had 2 gx470's perfect - new 2011 gx460 constantly vibrating when driving. Michelin tires perfect not the tires they are saying this is the way they feel. Now impossible - constantly feeling the road and all shaking.
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I have a 2015 Sonata SE 2.4L with 15k miles. Sometimes when accelerating, and almost always when accelerating uphill, the vehicle makes a noise that I can best describe as sounding like a grumbling or rattle from the engine. It almost has a "diesel engine" sound to it. I have noticed this going back to when the vehicle was brand new, but I have recently noticed it more.
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I'm driving my mom's 1987 Chevy Spectrum, which has about 190,000 miles on it. The Check Engine light comes on daily, but only when I'm driving uphill. The Chevy dealer says because the car is so old, it will take several hundred MORE bucks to find out what the codes mean. Doesn't seem to matter how full the gas tank is, or how steep the hill is. Other than this light, she just keeps going and going. Do I need to track down the cause? Might there be other symptoms that would diagnose it that I'm unaware of?
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I installed a K&N CAI intake about a month ago; the 69-8757TTK, which is supposed to be designed for our cars. And I noticed that there was noticeable engine knock when driving uphill. My father thinks it might be due to the extra air coming in and not enough fuel. Could this be the issue? Is there anyway to adjust or fix this? Not really looking to do a tune since the car's a 4 speed auto and it only has 130HP so it won't even be worth the money. In reality if I can't find a fix I'll just put the stock intake back on.
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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So today i went and got my GIAC stage 2 flash on my 2011 gti. Once everything was installed back into the car , i took it for a test drive and once i got into second gear i had my EPC and Check Engine light come on along with the tachometer dropping to 0 rpms. Went back to the shop and diagnosed a Cylinder 2 misfire. Ended up replacing the coil pack with a new one and that was fixed. As far as my tachometer, it was still on 0. Took the car for another ride with the guy who flashed it running Vag on the car and everything was working fine.
Ecu was reading the rpms. Went back to the shop and did a test on the tachometer and it works when fine. The cluster also has the staging feature when i turn the car on before i start and that works fine, just doesn't read rpms while the car is running. Everyone was stumbled at the shop and they said they haven't had this problem before. Just wanted to also note that i also unclipped the harness for the Soundaktor but I am not sure if that has an affect on the tachometer or the cluster itself.
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My Corolla was purchased new, and at 29500 miles it started getting a strange vibration (not the steering wheel but the car itself) whenever going up a hill or at higher speeds on the highway but ONLY when the gas was pressed (You once you let your foot off the gas at the same speed the vibration stops). After three attempts of taking the car to the dealer where the vehicle was purchased, the only responses I got were "We cannot duplicate the problem." After about the 6th time, I drove the car with one of the Sales Managers because the Service Manager wasn't there, and that manager felt the vibration, the dealership kept the car for three days, after which told me nothing is wrong, and returned the vehicle to me. I then turned to Toyota Headquarters, who set me up with a case and a case worker, and all he told me was to try working with another dealer. I went to a second dealer (closer to me house), and they did several inspections and doing a rotation, balance, and alignment.
They said the problem was unknown, but that they RECOMMEND that I get four new tires, thinking that MIGHT solve the problem. I bought 4 new tires, and after getting the tires replaced, and balanced and aligned AGAIN, the problem continues. The Toyota dealership then told me that they don't know what the problem is, and now I'm out of options. I don't know where else to turn, who else to speak with, and what else to do. I already paid off 2 years of the finance on my car, and have 2.5 years left. Side notes (whether irrelevant or not): The day I bought my car my mother got the same exact car just a different color. Her car now has 20000 more miles than mine, and runs beautifully. My car on the other hand, besides the vibration issue, seems like it has less power and has a very difficult time accelerating, unlike the other Corolla.
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