Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Engine Oil Light Started Flickering
Mar 25, 2016
So, after all, my sonata engine oil light started flickering yesterday on the way home from work. The light would come on on idle only. I tried to keep the light off by maintaining higher rpm. I knew I have enough oil and I was 2700 miles only in my oil change. Sonata has 97k miles. It was checked by the dealer on Feb 2016 for the engine recall. Dealer said no issues found. Even tough I always hear my engine is noisy. I tried to contact the dealer, they didn't promise any support or any good.
So, I took it to my trusted mechanic and did a proper oil change and filter using 10w30 full synthetic oil. Starting the engine, the light started flickering after 15 min idle. Always using Hyundai's genuine filters and changing full synthetic oil every 4k miles. It looks like the engine is bad. What do you think? Keep pushing on Hyundai's dealer will get me any good? Should I just rebuild / swap engine or just it is the time to get rid of the car? What to do. Dealer really reported no issue with engine when performing recall. 3k miles later in normal driving conditions the oil light is on...
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I got the aftermarket lights through Yefeng, with quad HIDS. So after a while, Cluster lights, Vanity mirror lights, tail lights, cabin roof lights all started to flicker or strobe faintly. Very noticeable either when lights are on or off, drive or park.
Car has less than 12k miles.
I've been driving it like that with no problems. Except one morning before I left to work, car wouldn't start. (Happened randomly) Battery is good, alternator is good. Could something be pulling power from the alternator? I have no clue.
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Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
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A month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
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I recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS and I love it. However, I'm having a slight electrical issue.
While driving at night with the headlights on occasionally they'll dim and flicker and often cut off completely while driving or parked. The interior and dash lights will also switch off with the headlights, however the radio will still continue to play. The lights only stay off for a second and then come back on. Sometimes I can make them flicker and go off by turning on my blinker or switching between high and low beams.
I'm trying to figure out if it's a problem with the alternator, the battery, or the fuses and if this is a known issue.
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Just going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
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2003 - Just recently my battery light started coming on and off on the dash, and occasionally my headlights would turn off and come back on. Now the ABS and BRAKE lights flash and the headlights are still on and off. I have already scraped (not cleaned) most of the corrosion off of the terminals on the battery and tightened the connections...
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2009 3.3 GLS ... Yesterday my wife told me that the battery light in her Sonata was flickering for just a fraction of a second at a time at irregular intervals. Nothing else was an issue so we didn't think much of it, started fine, no other lights.
She just called me to tell me that on her way into work it started very hard, all the lights on the dash were flashing, the engine was stumbling and wanting to quit, and the radio is no longer working.
It will be several hours until I can get to it to check it out, but my first thought is to check the grounds. I haven't worked on this vehicle in the past so exactly where to look first or any other issues I should look for...
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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Had the 2011 Sonata 2.0T for two months. Was running perfectly. The today engine light stayed on. Disconnected battery then started again. Still on. Guy said check gas cap. Added gas AND disconnected battery again. Light stayed off on way home. Then started it again and it is on again. No overheating. Oil is ok. etc. everything else works just fine.
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Last Thrusday, my wife couldn't start my Sonata 2010 with 30,350 miles on it. It just clicked and sounded like a dead battery. She had to get a jump start through Hyundai road side service.
I change the battery yesterday (it only had 225 cranking amps) and immediately strange things started happening: lights flickering, engine surging, hard starting, not starting just clicking, gauge lights blink strangely at startup and when switching off ignition, not remembering odometer settings (I set my odo for MPG).
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Earlier today on a easy drive (not pushing it) I noticed a slight "whistle-sound" that I haven't noticed before. About then it became VERY sluggish and the Engine Management Light started to flash.
As soon as I could I pulled over and connected my AL619 and it says "to low turbo/supercharger flow".
I didn't notice any smoke or smell, just a serious lack of power (i was doing 30km/h at the top of the hill).
Just tried to locate the leak, but I cant feel it or see it. I guess one would need one of those "smoke generators" to see where the pressure goes out.
So, do I have a broken turbo, or just a blown turbo pipe/tube?
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My 'check engine' warning light just came on after only 12,000 km on my 2011 GLS. What emission control part would be the first to fail? I ran my 06 Sonata 100,000 km+ and never saw any warning lights! And no, it's not a loose gas cap!
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2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
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Got a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
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Check engine light on and off. Code shows turbo boost throttle position sensor is the problem. I can't find a part with that name.
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I got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.
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4 years ago, I also had a check engine light. I brought the car to a mechanic and he just cleaned the parts and the engine light went away. I was still under warranty then. Below is my original post:
Removing Canister Close Valve and Fuel Filter
Today, I have a P0449 code. Something is clogged again. I am now out of warranty because the Canadian emissions warranty isn't as good as the ones in the US. The gas pump keeps shutting off when I pour gas.
What the most likely culprit is? I may try to replace the part myself if is easy enough.
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I driving 2011 Sonata. Check engine light was ON while driving, which are fault P0741, TORQUE CON CLUTH ABNORMAL. The light sometimes ON, and sometime will OFF while driving, is it any problem?
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Well it finally happened, a couple of weeks ago I was headed to an MX race and my check engine light came on and it started running rough. Long story short a piece of an exhaust valve broke off and went out through the head. Dealer has been great even though I was 300 miles from home and they did get me a rental(small POS SUV). Truck was supposed to be finished this week, but now they are saying the head gasket is on back order and they probably won't have one until the middle of April......... I can't be without my truck that long, but not much I can do. By the way truck is completely stock with just under 20K on it, and I have never had any issues with any of my Ford trucks or Ford diesels, even my old 6.0.
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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