My 2011 SE is starting to get some engine knock at 50,000 miles. I don't believe the dealership has ever ran the recommended fuel cleaner through the car. Do you think that would take care of the issue? If I do run the fuel cleaner through it, do I have to use the Hyundai brand?
View 11 RepliesTemperature outside (weather data): 55F. Temperature gauge in prius: 57F. It felt more like 70F. It's a 2010 Prius III model that is 6 months old and has about 3942 miles and is driven VERY carefully.
I start the Prius and when the ICE engages to warm up. There's LOUD intense engine knock. I immediately turn the power off. After a couple of seconds, I start it again....the ICE engages again and then starts knocking rapidly (it is definitely knocking) and after 10 seconds. It goes back to normal. It was so intense that it may have damaged other components or the engine block itself.
Bought my car about a month ago, 2011 SE 18k miles. Noticed while backing into our parking spot the steering had some play in it, not noticeable under speed, seems to only be noticeable while going slow or going over rough road. Was planning on taking it in since I still have plenty of warranty left but I always like to kind of know what the issue could be. Seems to be coming from the steering rack or driver side suspension.
View 18 RepliesI'm new member and recently have bought 2011 sonata YF. I feel a little knock in gearbox handle when I brake and stop the car ( in D mode), and knock again when i release brake pedal. This knock can't be heard and just feel by hand. is it normal or failure?
View 2 RepliesDriving home today and all of a sudden, hot air... I stopped and turned the car off then back on, hoping to reset something. Still nothing.
It almost sounds as if I can't even hear the compressor kick on when I turn on the AC button.
Looks like I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow to see if this is still under warranty. Really upset being that this car is only two years old.
I am driving 2013 Sonata for over 13 months, after 2 Synthetic oil changes, I have noticed that colours of oil turns darker after only 1500 miles each time, first synthetic was Quaker State and currently Castrol synthetic.
My Question is, what is the reason that causes the oil to turn dark,what is that substance which goes in oil to make it dark. My previous car Honda Accord could go 7,000 miles without any change in synthetic colours. Whatever it is which causes oil to get dark, cannot be good for engine.
I am being forced to change synthetic oil after 2000 miles. Do not want to drive my Sonata with dark oil. What causes even synthetic to turn dark after 1500 miles. Also why synthetic oil stays clear upto 1500 miles.
I am following the 7,500 maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes. At about 3,000 miles the color of the oil was golden brown but definitely had started to turn brown but still had a golden tint. Is light brown oil normal for 5,000 miles? The oil level is OK and still near the Full mark.
View 20 RepliesI just left to get gas. When I left my house, I had 64 miles til empty. The gas station is about 4 miles away. I put $5 in and when I got back in my car it was reading 59 miles til e. so I drove to another gas station and put another $5 in. This time, it showed 56 miles til e which is where I was before I got gas the second time. I have tried to reset it but can't figure out how to... I've got 90 miles until my warranty expires... Any easy fix? Or do I need to bring it in?
View 20 RepliesI've got nearing 160,000 miles on my GLS and the first 150k were absolutely flawless. However, I have recently noticed I'm losing nearly 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles. The exhaust isn't smoking and there is no noticeable oil leaking inside the engine bay. Where it might be going?
View 11 RepliesI replaced the front pads on my 2011 sonata with ones I purchased at an O'reilly's auto parts store about 11,000 miles ago. They did squeak initially after swapping but I thought that would go away eventually, nope it still makes that squeak/screech during dry/hot weather. Not all the time though, its mainly when coming to a stop over a long distance (slowly). I drive mostly highway miles. Will replacing them with OEM pads fix the issue?
View 7 RepliesMostly highway miles. Squeal doesn't happen all the time, only sometimes.
The pads I bought were from O'Reily's here and I believe they were BrakeBest Ceramic brake pads. Should I give it some more time for the squeal to go away? could it have been a poor brake job? (I didn't do it)
Oil in my 2012 Sonata 2.4L is black on the dip stick in 2000 to 3000 miles. Dealer says normal for this car, I don't believe it. What do others see? Also only gets about 32 mpg on highway and has black deposits on the tailpipe. I have gotten better than rated mileage on every other car I have owned so I don't believe it is my driving technique.
View 19 RepliesI noticed my wheel rim is hot to the touch after driving about 30 miles on the highway. I assume that this is heat dissipation from the brakes. Is this normal?
View 26 RepliesThis just gets stranger by the month. I could have sworn when I first got this 2011 Sonata that the console read 341 after filling it up for the first time. I thought it had said that after I filled it the second time (just after Hurricane Sandy - yes, before the long lines - I was lucky) and it read 329. On those occasions the console had read approx 67 & 69 miles to empty. I know I filled it with 87 the second time around. The first time may have been with 89. And when it stopped at 14.x I thought to myself, hmm, didn't it fill to 15.x the first time? Weird. So I went on with my life.
This past weekend it read 50 miles to empty and so I filled it again with 87 (same gas station I should point out). And just like the last time, before this time, it filled with 14.1xx and read 288 miles to empty. It just seems to me that "Miles to Empty" has slowly gone down. On the third filling I believe it may have read 303 to empty.
Is it me? I am imagining things here. Could have that much sludge/dirt/whatever it my tank because of the gas station I visited or the 87 and not 89 that I have been putting in? Oil and filter were changed in mid October and then again in mid March. Thats about to happen again on the 28th but also to have the required NYS Inspection done. What should I say to them if anything? Could I have picked that crappy of a local area gas station?
I recently got a Sonata from my parents when they moved to Pennsylvania. It's a 2007 with the 2.7 liter engine. It has had low oil for some time, so when I got it (last week) I put more in, up to but not above the full line.
It has had now for just a couple of days a very bad rattle, which is barely audible (but still IS audible) at idle and gets very severe during and after acceleration. It remains for some time even after the gas is no longer being pressed, then subsides a bit. I diagnosed it as knocking, but just today the check engine light came on and the rattle got louder.
I don't have another car to drive and I have class in five hours. Should I drive it or call a cab?
I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
Driving to work yesterday my engine shuttered and then shut off. The Display said low oil pressure and then powered down, all in about 15 seconds. Dealer called me today told me the engine is blown and is in the hands of Ford now. The only thing he told me was sit back and wait, I can not tell you how long it's going to be. but I am going to be screwed as far as work goes.
View 14 RepliesI just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.
I have a Sonata 2011 YF , with 2.4 GDI and 58,000 miles. There is an engine's oil leakage dripping on the ground exactly from the area between the engine and the transmission gear box where probably the o-ring ( i assume) is placed. The car is no longer covered by warranty.
The workshop guy says that the O-ring (i am not sure what exactly is called in English) needs to be changed and that process will have to drop down the whole gearbox (which is expensive and rather unsafe to) , so i am thinking about any other solutions that might be a great deal (using engine oil with more thick viscosity 10W50, 10W60 since i am living in an extremely hot conditions)?