Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Electronics Remaining On After Shut Off The Engine
Aug 15, 2012
Three times in recent months, when I park my 2011 Sonata and shut off the engine, the radio remains on, the doors won't lock, and when I exit the vehicle, I hear a tone that tells me I have removed the key from the car. The headlights also stay on(see "smart-key-immobilizer-problem" thread, by SOZAR in this forum. My symptoms are exactly the same, including the fact that the problem goes away on its own). No code is posted, and the dealer can't reproduce the problem, so they won"t do anything about it. I have a case open with Hyundai, but no luck.
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My sonata 2011 yf suddenly engine shut down in 20 - 30 meters after start or stop...
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This is a pretty standard feature in any other car (at least Fords and GMs that I know of), but not in the sonata. Is there a mod that can be done so that the radio stays on until the doors are opened after the car is shut off?
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I installed a factory remote start system on my 2011 sonata. the car will start run for a few seconds then shut off and the start sequence begins again this happens over and over until I unlock the door and add pressure to the brake pedal.
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My mother has a 2012 sonata. She told me that her drl will shut off when she turns her headlights on. Is this normal or is something maybe wrong. She also mentioned that they will sometimes shut off at random while driving.
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My 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
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My 2001 Honda CR-V with 120,000 miles has been sending misfire codes for the past couple of weeks. I replaced the distributor rotor and cap, plugs (NGK's) and wires, and the light disappeared after a couple of driving cycles. Then, it came back on about a week later. I had it diagnosed at a shop for compression and everything was good. I had read about the valve issues so I had the valves adjusted.
The car seems to run without any hiccup at all, and its been over 150 miles since the valve adjustment but the engine light remains on with the misfire codes.
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I was driving and got off the freeway exit ramp and while I was waiting to make a left turn, the car all of a sudden started sputtering (RPM's were low up and down on idle) and eventually died while waiting to make a left turn.
Turned on the engine again.. same sputtering occurred and had to gas it so it wouldn't turn off.. Finally got to the side of the road.. turned the car off checked the oil.. no issues.. engine temperature was fine.. no check engine light.
After about 30 min later, turned the car on and it seemed to be normal again so I carefully drove to the dealer and encountered no issues. Took the car to the dealer and they couldn't find anything.
I drive a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited with about 19k miles now.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
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Ok this may be the norm, but I'm hearing something like a motor running after i kill my engine? It sounds like a fuel pump or something!!! O ya I have a 2011 6.7. I've had the truck for several months but just now hearing this....
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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I got a brand new 590 HP Ford F150 Raptor with the Roush Supercharger. The car's electronics have completely shut down twice (first at about 800 miles and again at 2500 miles). I called the dealer the first time it happened and they said i must have bumped the key. I figured it could have been a fluke, but then it happened again so the car is no longer safe to drive.
I've taken it into the dealer twice and they can't find anything wrong with it unless i can recreate the problem for them. Obviously if it happens once every 1000 miles, that is tough to do. The only common theme was that it happened both times while slowing down and turning left.
I've given up on having Ford service, so i'm about to just replace the ignition on my own dime. If i didn't put $25k into it already, i'd just make the dealer take it back under lemon laws.
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For the last couple weeks, every time I shut down my car, it would beep. A single, two-second beep. It would beep after my morning commute and again after my evening commute. Every time, I would tell myself, "I should really look that up."
As is typical, I kept forgetting to search for it. I remembered seeing something like it and I was thinking that perhaps it was a low 12v battery warning but I just got a new 12v last fall. I put it off and put it off.
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I have a Sonata 2011 YF , with 2.4 GDI and 58,000 miles. There is an engine's oil leakage dripping on the ground exactly from the area between the engine and the transmission gear box where probably the o-ring ( i assume) is placed. The car is no longer covered by warranty.
The workshop guy says that the O-ring (i am not sure what exactly is called in English) needs to be changed and that process will have to drop down the whole gearbox (which is expensive and rather unsafe to) , so i am thinking about any other solutions that might be a great deal (using engine oil with more thick viscosity 10W50, 10W60 since i am living in an extremely hot conditions)?
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2011 Hyundai sonata ltd with 79k. Started having starter issue since yesterday. the engine will crank only just little and will not start. after few tries it may sometimes start normally.
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My car has almost 93,000 miles on it. This has happened randomly three times over the past 2 months. While I'm driving the engine will rev up to about 3k-4k rpms and then the whole car will turn off. While its happening I can't accelerate. If I start the car immediately after it shuts off the engine will turn over normally but the same thing will happen. I'll try to accelerate and the rpm's will hang around 3k-4k and shut off again. However if I wait a couple of minutes and try to start the car it will start and run normally. It happened this weekend and before that maybe 3 weeks ago, all 3 times so far on my way home from work.
To clarify when the car shuts down, the engine and everything else shuts down as too, I do still get some warning lights on my dash. I don't remember 100% but I think it was the EPS light and the oil light. My car doesn't have any issues with burning oil, and I change the oil pretty often.
I've brought it to the dealership and they were unable to find a cause. They gave me my car back and said if it keeps happening to bring it back. I've been reading about the engine recalls and my car is one of the effected one's according to my vin number. However my engine doesn't make any weird noises. There is no clunking sound or banging while the car is running and if the car does shut off, I can still get it going again. The dealership said they tested for it and my car passed.
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I know that this issue is occurring, hence the recall, and it is actually happening to me. I have gone off the road three times now due to my engine simply dying while the car is in motion. I drive a 2013 Sonata with 32k miles on it that I bought months ago, and the car has been to the dealer 4 times for the same issue, yet they are telling me NOTHING is wrong with the car. The service manager and general manager of the dealership no longer want to deal with me,they said if the computer doesn't show the problem, then there is no problem. The car's radio won't turn on, the bluetooth feature doesn't work, it has to be jump started 4-5 times a week and half the time it dies while idling after being started. The tire pressure sensor light just came on even though that was tested, and when the engine dies, no check engine light or ECM lights come on. BUT, NOTHING is wrong with the car!!
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I have sonata GDi model 2012 ..the engine is always knocking during driving the car ..I changed the spark plugs, Fuel pump, cleaned throttle as well..some of my friends said it could be about octane range (IKA) but I put it a high quality of gasoline ( premium) and still knocking. There's one thing I haven't checked yet ,is ( injector nozzle) ..
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Had the 2011 Sonata 2.0T for two months. Was running perfectly. The today engine light stayed on. Disconnected battery then started again. Still on. Guy said check gas cap. Added gas AND disconnected battery again. Light stayed off on way home. Then started it again and it is on again. No overheating. Oil is ok. etc. everything else works just fine.
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I hear a rattle or growl from the engine at 2,000 - 2500 rpm. Car performs fine. What it may be?
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