Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Electronic Power Steering Failure Shortly After Starting The Car
May 27, 2010
Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
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The EPS on my 07 Elantra has failed, the steering is very stiff and the EPS light is on. On occasion in the past, the EPS light has come on but started working again after restarting the vehicle. Now the light comes on as soon as I turn the key.
How should I proceed? I don't mind spending a few hundred on a fix that may not work. Is it likely to be a torque sensor / input sensor problem similar to the EPS recall on 2008-2010 Elantras? Are there other electrical issues that could cause this?
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My wife was driving our 2003 Honda Civic hybrid (125,000 miles) and the electronic power steering went out. She managed to get it parked, called me, and when I arrived everything seemed to work fine. (She said the yellow EPS light came on, but she didn't know what that meant.) I drove it for a while and had no problems. A few days later my daughter was driving and the entire car shut down. I jump started it and everything worked OK, but I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis. They could find nothing wrong (no codes). However, the next day the car once again would not start I replaced the 'starter' battery (the lithium-ion man battery pack had actually been replaced at around 79,000 miles--right before the expiration of the warranty!).
Now it seems fine, but my wife and daughter refuse to drive it, and I'm not sure if the problem is fixed. Here are my questions:1. Since this is a hybrid, once the car is running a failure of the 'starter' batter should have no effect on the EPS, or anything else, right? It all runs off the main lithium-ion battery pack. However, replacing the 'starter' battery seems to have solved the problem--or at least a dead 'starter' batter is temporally (if not causally?) connected with the other failures. This might be just a coincidence, since seems odd to have the 'starter' battery part of the larger electrical set-up. The dealership had no clue and I can't figure it out.2.
The first time just the EPS went out, but the second time the entire car shut down. This doesn't make much sense--especially since the dealer couldn't pull any codes. The car's auto-stop shuts the engine off all the time at speeds below 10 mph (this is a semi-hybrid), so why the total shut down?3. Why didn't the dealership tell me the 'starter' battery needed replacement? I've checked my records, and it seems to be the one that came with the car in 2003 (actually fall 2002). Should I give up?
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Electric power steering failing when starting the car and driving right away without warming it up?
My 2009 ISF has recently started doing this occasionally. It was when I started the car for the first time of the day, and pulled away within 10 seconds or so. When I let it "warm up" for a minute I have not had it happen.
But the thing is, I've had the car for a few months and have never had this happen until now. My mechanic plugged it in to the computer and there are no codes up, or in the history.
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'13 Sonata GLS w/ 4100 miles - when snow was on the ground 4 days ago, the ESC symbol would occasional flash indicating loss of traction (I was sort of pushing it around some corners for fun) and it seemed to correct throttle, etc. - everything working as it should.
Then yesterday on the commute home with nothing on the ground the light came on and stayed on while driving local & highway. This morning's start-up it was gone. Commute home and it came on again 5 minutes into the drive. But again another restart the light doesn't stay on.
I tried reading codes with an OBD scanner but it says NO CODE - the light is currently off, but was hoping it stored something. Manual says possible ESC malfunction if the light stays on, but it's been erratic.
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Brand new 2011 tiguan SEL with the Kessy keyless entry and ignition system. Today it wouldn't start. Had it over at my brothers house, vsited for a bit and then were heading out to dinner. The steering wheel light on the tach face was flashing red and beeping at me. Foot on the brake, finger on the engine start/stop button and nothing - the red steering wheel icon just flashes and beeps. The frustrating part was since the car is brand new, I had the owners manual on the dining room table at my house, an hour away It was just a few minutes after 6, so I was unable to get anyone in the service dept at the dealer I bought it from. Luckily, the salesperson returned my call (go Francisco!) and grabbed a manual from another Tiguan to tell me what the flashing light means. Basically, it means the car won't start. Very frustrating, the car has 268 miles on it and is only 6 days old. Having it towed back to the dealer for diagnoses and repair. CSB?
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Went to start the car this mourning & it was completely dead. No power to anything. Last used the car on friday & everything was fine. It looks like the fuse on the + lead is blown but I don't know how to replace it.
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I have a 2008 Chevy HHR. The last few days my electronic power steering has been on and off. I've changed the fuse, but that did not take care of the problem. When I start driving each time the EPS seems to start out fine. At some point , usually mid-turn, the power steering goes out. Anytime that I turn the steering wheel I hear a clicking or switching sound similar to what you might hear when you use a turn signal. After stopping and turning the car off for a period of time and then jumping back in the car to continue the day it all starts over.
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I have a 2013 SE/Limited with only 2800 miles on it. I understand that the Sonata has a great electric power steering system; however, I find it to be a little TOO powerful. Yesterday I was coming home on the highway doing about 65 MPH and I noticed how it's terribly hard to keep the car going straight down the road without constantly having to move the steering wheel. It's almost as though the electric power steering is too lose. I want to drive my car, but it's sorta uncomfortable how I'm always battling it to not meander all over the lane. I never remember having to battle the steering system in my '01 Accord EX V-6 while driving..
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Got in my 2007 LS460 and it wouldn't start. No power, no clicking, nothing. I checked the battery terminals and noticed they has some corrosion so I cleaned them and reattached. Nothing. I found that if I jiggled the positive cable the power would light up my dashboard with every light / radio, but it still wouldn't start....and I had to disconnect the cable in order to turn the power off. I had the car towed to a trusted Toyota/Lexus repair shop I've used for 15 years. They connected the cables to the battery and it started right up....but the power steering is out. They tried multiple things to get it working with no success. The only option now is to replace the electronic power steering unit.
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Having problems with Elanta 2009's electronic power steering system? I was driving my car and the power steering went unexpectedly almost causing an accident. I shut the car off and when it was re-started, it was working again and EPS light was off. I am taking it to the dealership soon to see what they will do. It has also been making a loud squealing sound for a few months now. It started out occasionally making noise when I would back up or turn the wheel to the side but is now squealing pretty consistently. I had it looked into when I got an oil change and no one can figure out what it is from. All of my belts were checked and are tight. I believe it's linked to the power steering.
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1999 Olds Intrigue, 3.8 eng.Last month, I replaced the Oil Level sensor while changing the oil, which was causing an oil leak due to a broke seal. Three weeks later, the "Low Oil" light came on and stayed on shortly after starting the car. I checked the oil level and it was full. I went ahead and drove it to work. No engine operating errors during the drive. While continuing to drive the car (yes, driving it), I did notice that the light stays off after starting the engine at operating temps, but comes on while the engine is cool (Faulty sensor?) I asked an Autozone associate about a Oil Pressure gauge to test the engine but was told that they dont sell such a thing. Chiltons repair manual says to use a 3amp fuse jumper to test the Oil Level and Oil Pressure sensor. What a fuse jumper is.
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2001 Prius with 230,000 miles, replacement hybrid battery in January 2009 at 197,000 miles has recently been having mutliple electronic problems. Current status is:
o Disconnect the 12 v battery for one or two days.
o Re-connect the 12 v battery.
o Turn key and the ICE starts up and runs normally for about 20 seconds, but all warning lights are on: Red Triangle, PS, ! Car.
o ICE begins to shudder and shake as if it is attempting to engage something that won't turn.
o After about 15-20 seconds of shudder/shake the ICE dies and nothing will happen until I start over at disconnect of 12v battery.
I am guessing that the ICE is trying to engage the motor/generator that recharges the main battery, but it is stuck. Is that what is called "the inverter"?
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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Our 2007 Camry dashboard lights up like as it should (regardless of lighting conditions) then after starting the engine or turning the key to the ON position, it dims to total darkness in about 3 seconds. I need this fixed tonight otherwise my wife will take my Tundra to work.
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What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
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I was driving our '11 Sonata Limited 2.4 today with wife and infant son... While merging onto a main road, I accelerated to switch lanes without slowing traffic and noticed the car felt oddly underpowered.. I kept my foot on the gas, and a substantial rattle emerged from under the hood so I let off and drove steady on... We made it to our destination and I popped the hood to find oil soaked into the valve cover and head... I checked the oil and the stick was still wet, but since the car was just running I'm not sure the exact level...
Unfortunately, I recognize the noise it made on the road, and I'm 99% certain it spun a rod bearing... In other words, the engine is shot. 63,362 miles, synthetic oil changes every 4k-5k miles, dealer maintained...
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Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
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The past two days my 2008 Santa Fe has been exhibiting power failure upon starting. When the ignition is switched on then to start all power is lost immediately with no start nor crank. I hear a metallic click seemingly too light a sound for a starter solenoid but since this has not happened before it could be a solenoid sound. All power is lost including dash and marker lights. After about 5 seconds or so the marker lights and dash will return and the car will start normally. I expect a circuit breaker is resetting. This has happened three starts in a row at least eight hours apart. This morning the dash clock was 8 or so hours behind but the car started normally. 62k on the car.
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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Yesterday I took my car out, stopped at a gas station and the car wouldn't start. When trying to start it, everything inside would come on but it would just click. We were able to jump start it. After that I was able to start it 2 more times. the next time i tried to start it, it did the same thing, but the jump didn't work. We went and bought a new battery and it still isn't starting. It isn't clicking anymore though. It kinda hums when it tries to turn over. Does this seem like a starter issue?
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