Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Easy Way To Dim The Too Bright Gear Indicator Light
Mar 19, 2011
When I had my center console out to do the DIY cupholder light mod, I also took apart the gear position indicator light assembly. It is just a plastic clamshell around a pc board with a bunch of LEDs on it. Three phillips screws hold it together. It is a really simple design. I took a black sharpie pen to each of the LEDs, putting a centered dot on each of them, covering maybe 2/3 of the lens area. I just guessed at that coverage. I reassembled it and was very pleased at the result when it's dark out. The brightness is about half of what it was, just right in my book. You can use the "DIY cupholder mod" thread (page 1) to see how to get the console out. I drive a lot at night, and the bright light has always bothered me. Now if I could just dim those annoying bright green dash lights...
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This morning, while backing out of my driveway, I lost reverse for about one second. It disengaged, just revved, then engaged on its own. I looked down and the "R" on the indicator next to the shifter was not shaded red. Put it into drive to go up the street and "D" was not shaded blue. I then looked up at the dash and the gear indicator up there was blank. Turned the car off and back on and everything has been fine since. 2011 GLS, 43000 miles.
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I know I'm not the only one that think the dash illumination lights are too bright! Even when turn turn them all the way down, yes they go down but still too bright. Any mod to make the inside lights dark? I have thought about buying tint and tint the over the speedometer and the clock and radio... Not sure how it would hold since its plastic......
I use my personal car for side work (at night) and need sit in my car and if the car is running and I cut all the lights off, and use the emergency brake to cut the day time running lights off, the dash lights go bright...wtf. I've also thought about removing the fuse for the lights, but I read the same fuse is used for the airbags as well.....
2011 Sonata GLS
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I recently (July 2016) bought a 2012 2.0T Limited with 14K miles. Got an awesome deal on it and really love the car. About two months ago the car had a total loss of power/boost. I took it into the dealer and they performed a wastegate actuator adjustment (something I will be doing on my own now if it becomes a problem again). Now at about 21k miles I'm having a different issue. Here is what's happening:
Accelerating from a stop the car feels as if it's falling out of gear intermittently. Once it happens and I press the gas more/floor it, the car doesn't respond. If I let off the gas and then press it again, the car will then start to accelerate again. On the highway cruising at 70ish, the same thing happens and it even oscillates with constant throttle like its down/up shifting. The ESC light came after a 20 mile highway trip of this oscillation. No CEL. When I got off the freeway, the navigation screen said there may be a problem and I should press the bluelink button.
When this is happening the cruise control either doesn't work at all or the "cruise" light will come on but I can't set a speed. Tonight I noticed in the rear view mirror that the brake light stays on or even flutters after I brake which corresponds to when the cruise is or isnt working as well as when the car intermittently falls out of gear/oscillates falling out of gear with constant throttle. If I notice the brake light is on without actually braking, I can take my foot and pull the brake pedal towards me which turns off the brake light and then the car seems to work correctly as well as the cruise control. The car is driveable but definitely something is wrong.
I should mention that I checked the voltage for the wastegate actuator and it is 3.97v which I believe is within tolerance. All of these issues with no CEL.
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This has happened twice so far, I pull out of my driveway then shift to drive. When I shift, I feel a little lock up in the steering wheel and the esc indicator comes on and stays on even when not moving. I then shift to park and turn off the car then back on and it is perfectly fine. Also when the indicator is on, hitting the ESC off button does nothing. What should i do?
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I own a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, my grandma owns a 2014 Sonata, and my other grandparents own a 2011 Sonata. On their cars, when their low tire pressure light comes on, the little display inside the RPM gauge shows them which tire is low. My low tire pressure light comes on and works, but for some reason it doesn't indicate which tire is low. It'll tell me which door is opened, but won't show which tire is low. How to fix this, or why it's happening?
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2011. The light switch in the steering is giving problems. After I turn on the head lamps and drive for 15-20mins. While driving, giving traffic light indicator, the head lights sometimes goes off for a second and comes up again.
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I had a low tire indicator show up on the dash today while driving home. It was flashing. I continued to drive, (only a mile from home) since there was no indication of anything going wrong with the tires. Then, the indicator stopped flashing, and went to steady. Then, by the time I hit the brakes to turn down my road, the indicator was gone. So, I checked all my tires, and with my very old accoutre gauge, they all showed 34.5 (35 being the spec). I hope to not see that again.
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All of a sudden I have only one light (Driving lights)) on the dashboard. I used to have two. I have the Driving Light indicator showing but the headlight indicator light is not lighting up.
The headlights come on OK but not the indicator showing the headlights are on.
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I just bought a 2013 Hyundai sonata (this is my first car) and I found a wired thing happening when I just turn on the car (without turning on the engine) that Malfunction indicator light, Changing System warning system warning light, EPS and Check Engine Light are ALL on but after I start the engine, these lights will be off. Is this normal or there is something wrong with it?
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2011 Sonata Se. Keyless fob will not unlock car or open trunk. Brake lights and overhead lights are all that will light. Immobilizer indicator flashes yellow when start button is pushed with brake depressed, car does not even attempt to start.
Putting fob in console will also cause the Immobilizer light to flash, no start up. Holding start button with foot on brake for a minute does nothing.
Owner's manual says call dealer. Car battery is 1 year old and 2 fobs have new batteries, and neither will work.
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Just got my 2011 Ecoboost FX4 on June 15th. For most of the time I had it, the in-dash LCD showed the 6 gears (on the right side of the display) for the trans & highlighted which gear it was in at any time (in Automatic mode, not select-shift). It disappeared & I can't figure out how to get it back?????? Nothing is listed in the manual.
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The indicator lights stopped working on the switches and the dealer replaced a fuse and they worked again. Now they are out again and it seems like the heater on the drivers side is on the low setting for random intervals.
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My 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
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I have no owners manual and cannot determine the meaning of this light indicator on my dashboard. It resembles a letter "U" more horseshape with the exclamation point in the middle of the U. How to determine the problem that this light indicates? BTW, I have been driving my car and concerned that continuing will damage.
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Own a 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L.
Having an issue where the trunk indicator light stays on on the dash and won't turn off; just started yesterday. It causes the car alarm to go off prematurely when the car is locked via remote and will not beep when locked twice with remote indicating that it is locked.
Otherwise the trunk functions properly, opens and closes fine, latches fine. The only work done in the past 3 months was an oil change a few days ago.
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I am trying to diagnosis a new issue on my 2006 V6 Sonata . I plugged in my code scanner which gave back MIL Status as ON, but there was no Check Engine - Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) lit up on the instrument cluster. It also showed that the EVAP, CAT and O2S was "Not Ready". When I checked the codes, I had P0031, P0037, P0051 and P0057, all of which are tied to Low Heater Circuits in the O2 sensors. When I checked the cables under the hood, the lower O2 sensor cable closest to the firewall was stuck onto exhaust pipe. It easily pulled free but I tried clearing the codes but the same 4 codes remained. I checked the resistance across the heater control and ground circuit, all 4 O2 sensors were around 10 ohms.
There seems to be several issues:
1) Why doesn't the instrument cluster register the MIL status as ON and display this Check Engine Light?
2) Why are the EVAP, CAT and O2 "Not Ready", I've heard that these are sometimes tied to disconnecting the battery. I've put almost 3K miles on the vehicle since the battery change.
3) OBD Codes P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, I would expect all O2 sensors to fail at once, is there a fuse or other control that needs to be replaced or reset?
I am trying to get everything ready for emissions testing on this recently purchased 06 Sonata and I am thinking these issues will cause it to fail.
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Having issues with the gear indicator light on the center console go out?
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I have a 2006 Sonata, last night I was driving and when using my high beam headlights they would stay bright and then dim then brighten up again. The battery has not been replaced since I have had this car, but I didn't know if it could be the battery, alternator or maybe the headlights? They work fine on regular beam, no dimming on this setting.
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I got all my recalls done a couple of months ago. The dealership should have fixed a recall regarding a bad gear shift. It was fixed for free. However, I seem to be getting a bad gear once in a while. The gear on the dash goes blank. The problem is difficult to reproduce with a test drive. Now I wonder if the dealership will charge me this time, since it was already fixed once.
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I bought my 2011 sonata gls last year and it has always had a bit of an issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The best way to describe it would be if someone where dumping the clutch and you get that sudden, hard acceleration with a bit of rev flare and then back down the lower revs. It doesn't do it every time it shifts, but enough that it is very annoying. I've had it in the dealership twice for this issue but I get the same "We can replicate the issue" song and dance. They tell me there is no code, and no history of any code. I had the trans position sensor replaced under warranty late last year.
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