Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: ESC Light Started Coming On - Brake Pedal Is Very Sensitive
Jul 3, 2013
A month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
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Brake pedal being very sensitive at low speeds (neighborhood speeds about 25 mph or lower). At higher speeds its not as sensitive but IMHO it is quite a bit touchy. So this issue started a few months ago, after the crankshaft key fell out and the timing belt/chain slipped. The engine needed to be torn apart to replace a few items internally.
After that I was visiting my parents, and I wanted to give the car a test drive to make sure that all seemed to be ok. I was pulling out of the driveway and I went to stop so that I could put the car into "D", I barely pushed down on the pedal and it went down pretty fast and the car stop suddenly, I thought it was a fluke. This took place a few months ago after they freshly gotten the vehicle back.
Fast forward to last night, my parents were up visiting and I went and took their Passat to the gas station to fill it up for them. And the pedal was still pretty darn sensitive. I'm not too savvy with this kind of trouble shooting.
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So, I have had this weird incident happen a couple times. The first time it happened was probably a month or so after getting the car (2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited). I was parked on our driveway, and it's on an incline. I started it up, but the brake pedal was super hard to push down. Once the car started, everything felt fine, and other than a casual "Huh, that was weird." I didn't really think anything of it. Have been without incident for months.
Then today, it happened twice. Parked in the same spot, started the car fine this time, but I went to turn it around in the driveway and almost took out our shrubs because I went to brake and the pedal was stuck. Pushed down really hard and got the car to stop. Put it in park, and tested the pedal a couple times... everything was fine. Was nervous, but took the car anyways. Happened again in the afternoon. Got out of the store and thought I was going to be stranded in the parking lot because this time the pedal was stuck and at first I couldn't start the car. Luckily, it eased up when I pushed down hard and it started, then all was fine again.
I have done a little looking and saw vacuum booster and master cylinder mentioned for possibilities, though no one's experience that I have seen sounds just like mine, nor did I find any that are Sonata YF specific. I already got my switch recall taken care of, so this is something different. Only 7,000 miles on the car. Gonna bring it in to the dealer this week, but just wanted to crowd source opinions in case they can't replicate the problem. I hate feeling like I can't trust my vehicle... especially when it's almost brand new.
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I tried to turn on my car, and the brake pedal was hard and the car wouldn't start. I did a search on the forums regarding the brake light switch. I tried the 30 second hold the start button, car would not start. Radio/lights works fine so I don't think it's a battery problem. My g/f said she can see all of my brake lights turn on when I try to depress them. I'm kind of a lost. It was working fine earlier this morning.
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I have noticed that anytime i leave the car parked for more than 5 hrs or so, when i get in and put my foot to the brake pedal to start, the pedal feels very hard... as tho someone sat in the car and pressed it several times.... So great force is needed to mash the pedal to start the car... After it starts the pedal gets nice and soft as normal... Is this normal?? Or should i get it checked
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I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
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Have a 13 Sonata Limited 2.0t and for some reason it won't start.
Also brake pedal is extremely stiff. Tried to push start button several times while pressing brake, and dash lights just blink several times.
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My brake pedal is rock hard to press and when I do press it while pushing the push to start, it does not turn on.
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Had this issue with my Kia Optima 2013 pertaining to the brake pedal, now with my 14 Sonata Limited. When in stop and go traffic, parking lot driving, or pulling into the garage that requires a lighter touch on the brake pedal, the pedal has a creaking feel to it, like when closing a creaky door. I can make this happen of course when I push the brake pedal slowly with my hand. This also happens when letting up on the pedal slowly/lightly. Kind of annoying, but the brakes work just fine and dandy
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I have 2011 SE, it won't start at all. The car won't start all thou all electrical are working (radio, NAV, Dashboard) but when trying to press the break pedal is hard as a rock. Dashboard computer at times tells me to press the break pedal - but it wont start, it actually turns off when i press the break and hit the start button. It happen twice before was able to start it within couple minutes.
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A couple of weeks ago I started hearing this rattling/thumping coming from under the driver's side floorboard when the car is started. Almost sounds like a loose exhaust pipe. You can hear just little rattling under idle but it goes away (or you can't hear it) while driving.
Both shops (Pep Boys and dealer) told me it's quite expensive to replace. I just started looking around and I do see aftermarket cats for a few hundred. How hard can this replacement be for the average driveway mechanic?
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So, after all, my sonata engine oil light started flickering yesterday on the way home from work. The light would come on on idle only. I tried to keep the light off by maintaining higher rpm. I knew I have enough oil and I was 2700 miles only in my oil change. Sonata has 97k miles. It was checked by the dealer on Feb 2016 for the engine recall. Dealer said no issues found. Even tough I always hear my engine is noisy. I tried to contact the dealer, they didn't promise any support or any good.
So, I took it to my trusted mechanic and did a proper oil change and filter using 10w30 full synthetic oil. Starting the engine, the light started flickering after 15 min idle. Always using Hyundai's genuine filters and changing full synthetic oil every 4k miles. It looks like the engine is bad. What do you think? Keep pushing on Hyundai's dealer will get me any good? Should I just rebuild / swap engine or just it is the time to get rid of the car? What to do. Dealer really reported no issue with engine when performing recall. 3k miles later in normal driving conditions the oil light is on...
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I have a 2012 sonata that has issues from day one. ?
New issue is: For a couple days now I've noticed a crackle noise when I break. It is only when I am coming to a complete stop that the noise happens, not the full time i actually have foot on break.
Not thinking it is the bearings. Thinking it may be something within my suspension.
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Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
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This afternoon while I was driving home from work I heard a minor squeak so I put the windows up and the radio off. t I heard my brake pedals chirp. It's a small minor squeak, but I hear it and it's bothering me. Am I over thinking this?
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The ESC warning light has started coming on intermittently on my 06 GLS. Stays solid, not blinking. Turning the car off and starting again resets it but never for long.
The brake light switch was already replaced once at 36K miles. It's now at about 84,500. Do these things have a history of going bad multiple times?
For what it's worth, my little ELM327 ODB II plug-in gadget shows no faults but it may not be able to see the right data. I'm taking it back to the dealer in the morning, where they probably won't fix it and probably will break something else.
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My driver side brake light keeps going out. I replaced the bulb couple of months ago and had to replace it again. Switch the socket? Switch to led bulbs?
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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Over the past 4 months I've had the brake warning light, the one that comes on when you press the parking brake on, come on randomly. In each occasion turning the car off and then starting it back up clears it for the rest of the day. I had it happen 5 months ago, a couple months ago, two weeks ago on new years and then this Saturday and Sunday. Took it to the dealer today and it shows no codes but they managed to get it to come on once. They think its an electrical issue which makes no sense to me.
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Just recently, my Brake light started coming on, on my dashboard for several seconds or more then going back out. I checked the fluid and it was fine. The next time the brake light came on, I noticed that the needles for Both my Speedometer and RPM gages dropped to zero for as long as the Brake light was illuminated. Once the brake light went off, the needles once again showed my speed and RPM (were functional). This occurs while I'm simply driving down the road.
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In the past two weeks my traction control light came on and stayed on until i turned the car off. This happened randomly about four times. Setup an appointment through BlueLink. The dealership says that since the wheel speed sensors are wireless that something interfered with the signal to the computer. If it happens again they will replace the two passenger wheel speed sensors.
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