Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Driver Door Lock Not Functioning
Dec 30, 2015
2011 Sonata GLS 2.4 82K miles
Driver door lock was stuck in lock position. key fob and interior button would not unlock driver door. had to force it open and now the door will not lock at all. tried key fob, buttons, and even inserting key and manually locking but nothing locks the door. Interior lock/unlock button next to handle moves freely now.
Is this the door latch assembly, the handle itself, or something else?
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I got in my 2011 Sonata today to go to work and my driver side door won't lock either electrically or manually. The other 3 doors lock and unlock just fine. I'm really concerned because I can't even lock it manually by pressing the lock in. How to fix this anomaly?
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So, I am sitting at the dealership waiting for my car to get worked on. The door lock on my driver side isn't working.
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Just curious if this has been an issue for Avalons. My driver side rear door lock has not been functioning whether it be with the FOB or using the power door lock button. Requires manually locking/unlocking. How to determine the cause?
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My rear driver-side door's lock just stopped functioning. It is in the locked position and I can't put it in the unlocked position using the key or manually (and I've tried using a LOT of force). The door itself is actually not locked. When I lock and unlock the doors, all the other doors work fine, and the broken one tries to lock and unlock, but it is stuck hard in it's position. But, the door stays unlocked under all circumstances.
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I think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
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I went to grab my laptop out of my car this morning and my passenger side door wont unlock. I tried with the remote, then i tried using the button on the drivers door, then i tried the button on the passenger door and none of them worked. I don't hear as much as a pin drop sound coming from the pass. door so im thinking maybe its just a fuse or something...didn't get a chance to look at it..
Why I didnt think of it this morning, but i opened the door from the inside, remembering how when you do so, it pushes up the lock...that seemed to be enough to fix it...works fine now..weird..
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I have a 2007 GLS Sonata. And suddenly when I lock my doors with the remote, the driver door wont lock but every other door will lock. Is it a fuse?
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I have a problem with my 2011 sonata, the rear passenger side door lock will not unlock. Whether I use the key fob, the internal door unlock button or the buttons on the door handles from the outside. I can't even get the door open to take the panel off.
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I have a 2012 Sonata GLS which (pathetically) honks to confirm the door lock. Is there a way to convert it to the "chirp" of the Limited models?
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I have Shark Racing type 2 rear bumper reflectors. The drivers side only comes on now when I lock the car. How I can check for power to the reflector itself to make sure all is fine at the reflector. I suspect the problem will in inside the reflector. I am sure it would be a pain to try to fix one internally.
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Driver's power door lock will sometimes not lock with remote when outside car. The lock button will only move part way towards being locked but not enough to lock the door. The same is true when the inside master lock is pressed to lock all doors. The driver's door lock will only move part way. When returning to car, remote will unlock all doors except driver's door. This happens about half the time. i.e sometimes the remote will lock/unlock ALL doors and sometimes all doors except the driver's door.
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I just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
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I am now having my first issue with my car in that the rear drivers side door lock won't always work.
After using the search function, it seems replacing the door lock actuator/solenoid solves this problem, but I could only find a diagram showing how to get at it on the drivers front door, not a rear door.
Looking for a diagram on how to do this, or info on it?
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I have a Camry 2011 LE (US) and it is giving me this problem for last few weeks. The doors lock fine with the key fob and the lock button on the doors however only driver side door unlocks when i try to unlock it.
The car does not has any starting problem and it still does not work when the car is started and moving. I have even tried a friend's battery to double check if its a battery issue but it does not seems like its that problem since my car starts just fine.
I have been searching on the internet for the problem and read somewhere it could be a Relay problem and i was able to find two relays in the fuse box. But I just don't know if its legit to try replacing the Relay and if yes which relay control doors.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
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I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
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My 2013 Sonata, just out of the blue decided the driver side door push button wouldn't work anymore. it seems like it gets stuck when it's depressed, I can manually "pop" it back out and press the button and the doors lock/unlock but becomes stuck again.
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I have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
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Every time when i accelerate, there is a 'blade spinning sound' coming out from the engine, i noticed it when my car hit around 5k miles, now it's about 7300 miles. any idea what that is? could be the belt problem?
The second noise is a constant 'locking' sound comes from back passenger side. when I locked all doors, (especially in quiet night makes noticeable) about every 10 minus, the door kept making a 'locking' sound, it sounds the latch and the lock can't fully attached each other, and the door has to constantly reboot the auto-lock system.
What are the issues of these two annoying sounds?
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