Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Door Locks Not Unlocking With Key Fob
Mar 9, 2012
My rear right door wont unlock with the key-fob. When you click unlock you will see the lock "twitch" but not open. In order to unlock it you must manually re lock the doors and unlock via the buttons on the driver or passenger side.
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I just recently noticed that when I come to my car and on my key fob, i press the unlock button only once, the only door it unlocks is the drivers door, the other 3 remain locked. Only when double clicking the unlock button does it unlock all 4 doors. Is this how its suppose to work?
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I have a strange problem with my front left (driver door) doorlock. I've changed the speaker, so i hade to remove the door panel. When I try to reassemble the door panel and the door lock I have some problems. I get everything in place, but the problem is that the door lock gets jammed. When I only close the door (not locking the door) I can open the door. But when I lock the door, then unlock it, I don't manage to open the door. I then have to fast pull the outside two times real hard, and then the door opens. I have discovered the problem. The door seems fine when I remove this cable: But if I remove the cable, I can't open the door from the outside.
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2001 ford explorer sport trac. Power door locks lock from both sides but will not unlock from either side, have tried new switches and lookd for broken wires in all four door jams.
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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I now have 2 doors (driver and left rear doors) that have sluggish power door locks. They sometimes work, but always have energy when operated.
I'm thinking that maybe it's a connector with resistance and causing a voltage drop since it's on both doors on the same side of the car.
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We've had our '11 Prius II now for a couple weeks, and I have run into a problem I can't seem to figure out. When I lock the car, either using the button on the FOB or the smart key, then come back and try to unlock it using the smart key, it will lock the vehicle again. I have to wait a few seconds and try the smart key again and then it will unlock. I tried the search, but haven't found any thing describing this. Am I doing something wrong?
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I have a 2011 Camry LE and recently both rear door locks stopped responding to any form whether using the key fob or driver door controls(I have to manual lock and unlock the rear doors)However the rear windows work fine, which indicates the rear doors receiving power. This is really inconvenient. Looking for a clue to what's going on? Only the front doors (driver and front passenger) are operating properly.
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I think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.
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Having issues with the rear tailgate door unlocking. Seems like mine on occasion is only making a noise but not unlocking completely and showing the door ajar light with the beep. When it happens, its a pain to get it to stop and close completely, or even open. I have to push hard on the door to get it to stop.
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Is it possible to do this? There are times I'd like to just run inside for a second but every time I lock my doors it quickly unlocks them.
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I am trying to dynamat my inner doors. I can get the outside door panel off, but am having an extremely difficult time getting the black plastic piece off.
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This morning the Fuel Door can't open, after I tried 7-8 times it opened. So I drove the the dealer, but after I arrive there it can open with each push. The car did that fuel door TSB last month.
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So I recently installed interior LEDs and noticed the other night that the dome and maps are slightly lit up when the car is on, they aren't fully on but you can tell that they are slightly lit up, when I press the button obviously they turn on fully but then go back to being slightly lit after I try to turn them off.
If I switch my map button to "off" then they are pitch black, but if it's on "door" then they are ever so slightly lit up.
It doesn't bother me at all as I hardly notice it and doesn't obstruct my view, but I want to make sure that it won't cause any harm down the road.
When car is off, or map light button is set to "off" then map lights are turned off completely, if car is on or map light set to "door" then map lights are so slightly lit up as well as the dome light in the back. Not sure if bad just curious.
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My wife cracked in half the gas fill door on our 2012 SE. I ordered a new one online and painted it to match our car. I cannot figure out how to get the old one out and install the new one. I removed the 4 screws around the gas filler tube but how do I access the back to get out the old hinge?
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I have the same problem as in the youtube video. It is my 2011 Sonata SE with smart key. I have 100k Miles and checked with the dealership and they said no recalls on my car.
[URL] ....
Wondering what the problem is? Is it just the Actuator or Lock and Actuator Latch Assembly both?
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My interior lights won't come on when I open the doors.
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I have a 2011 sonata with 72000 Km on it. As I am driving at highway speeds I notice a rattle from the drivers side towards the door. I can't quite locate where but have tried pushing trim and I can't stop it. Took it to the dealer and was told there was nothing wrong and no rattle. On a trip yesterday I noticed the rattle stopped as I braked. So I then applied very light pressure on the brake pedal. So light it did not come off cruise. And the rattle stops. What is the likely cause? I want to be prepared with some ideas when I take it back to the dealer.
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2011 Sonata GLS 2.4 82K miles
Driver door lock was stuck in lock position. key fob and interior button would not unlock driver door. had to force it open and now the door will not lock at all. tried key fob, buttons, and even inserting key and manually locking but nothing locks the door. Interior lock/unlock button next to handle moves freely now.
Is this the door latch assembly, the handle itself, or something else?
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So this morning I discovered a small tear on the door paneling material of my rear right door. Is it possible to just replace that section of the covering? I think I will place some clear tape over it in the meantime to prevent any further damage.
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I got in my 2011 Sonata today to go to work and my driver side door won't lock either electrically or manually. The other 3 doors lock and unlock just fine. I'm really concerned because I can't even lock it manually by pressing the lock in. How to fix this anomaly?
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