I went to start the car today and it will turn over but doesn't start. I tried to see if it had any codes but not codes present. What should I try? It has 82k and I am original owner. What does the 100k warranty cover?
View 7 Replies'12 GLS with 45k on the odo. Keyed ignition, not a push button.
Did a 45000 mile recommended service, oil change with full synthetic, and throttle body service (cleanout) On Friday (July 3).
Drove it 70 miles on Saturday (July 4) with no problems...35 miles, sat for 10 hours, drive 35 more. 85 degrees outside and 60% humidity.
Drove it today (July 5) for ten miles, sat for 2 hours and 30 minutes. 87 degrees outside and 50% humidity.
Attempted to start after the 2.5 hours off. Starter cranked, but motor never caught and started. Tried five times. Nice crank (battery strong). Motor Still didn't catch. Third time motor almost caught, but it sputtered out.
Sixth time I let it crank for 7 seconds and it finally caught and started. CEL illuminated and stayed on all the way to the dealer (<1 mile from where I was) where left it for Monday diagnostics.
Spark should have been good.
Fuel and air were the unknown. TB service on Friday might make air the culprit. I also saw the high pressure fuel pump issue people reported. Not happy about having to possibly shell out 800-1100 for that! Also read about the oil starvation on the bearings, but the car exhibited no oil starvation symptoms (rattle, loss of power, etc).
I have absolutely loved my 2011 F-150 8 cyl since I bought it in 2013. I'm just now having my first issue...
For the past two weeks or so, I've had an issue with intermittently hard starting. It cranks like normal but doesn't turn over instantly. The longest its gone before starting has been about six seconds. Although originally happening only 10% of the time, its happening about 40% of the time over the past couple days. I had my mechanic take a look and the battery and starter all checked out fine.
Biggest problem was that it never did it for them making it hard for them to trouble-shoot. Thus far its always started, just takes an indescript amount of time in which to do it. The time of day doesn't seem to matter although afternoons in which I'm heading to lunch after being in the office for 3-4 hours seems the most common time.
I parked my 2011 Sonata yesterday and turned it off.
This morning, I tried turning the car on, but there is no ignition. I can put in the key, turn it to accessory mode (the dash lights up), but once I turn the key further to ignition nothing happens (no noise). I don't think I have a dead battery.
My brother had this problem once before. It has something to do with the fact that the gear is not in 'P'. He managed to start it after he called roadside assistance, but I don't know what he did. The gear is currently at 'P'. I was supposed to go and get my range switch replaced today to fix this but I can't get it out of the driveway.
What I need to do to get it to start?
So the other day I was waiting on my friend outside her job, but the car was on off, I got bored and pushed the Push Start button twice without holding the brake so only the stereo will turn on. However when I turned on the car again to driver off the stereo shut off and wouldn't turn on. It's been three days now and I was hoping it was some sort of glitch that would fix itself out, but it hasn't. Its a 2011 Sonata without the Navigation, Just the simple bluetooth fm/am radio with CD.
View 4 RepliesAll of a sudden today (it's a foggy night) when i press the start button it cranks but will not engage the engine. It has 67000 miles on it.
I am assuming it is not the brake pedal issue that many have here. Battery is fine i think because it turns on the air condition lights and everything, i even tried to jump start. Gasoline, it has still 75 miles to go, I don't know if the gauge is wrong.
Any plugs that i need to check? 2011 Sonanta SE ....
My 2006 Sonata LX cranks and sometimes starts. Usually it doesn't. I checked the spark plugs for a spark, which it has.
I attached a noid light to the fuel injector, and it flashes. I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle and the car starts and stays running.
I ran a computer diagnostic on it and it reads this: ""Monitor camshaft position in the full retard condition or during CWT control. Camshaft switching out of 109 to 141 degrees in full retard position, 70 to 140 degrees CRK during CWT control."
I'm not mechanically inclined, but what to do up to now. Now I'm at a complete loss as to what is wrong or what to do next.
This is my son's car. He said it started losing power and then finally just died on the side of the road. The first thing I thought of was change the fuel filter. changed it yesterday and it still won't start (cranks with no problem). I used my code scanner on it and it showed three codes: P0300 / P0301 / P0305. I really don't think it's spark plugs or plug wires.
View 2 Replies2009 Sonata V6. It was working fine from the last 10 months and all of a sudden, from couple of days it not behaving as usual.
It cranks some times and will start and some times it wont even crank just silent. (However all my dash lights, headlights sterio work fine).
But to my surprise, it started very fine this morning. So not sure, what the problem would be.
My car has 57000Kms and its still in warranty, so, if there is some thing wrong with the alternator, starter motor. will the warranty cover for those parts.
The fuse was not blown. The bus connection for that fuse was burned from a high capacitance caused when there is a loose connection.......period.
View 13 RepliesI have an 08 2.4L Sonata with 95000mi. When turning the ignition it will crank and sound like its about to start but won't. I was able to get it to start by pushing the gas pedal a bit when it sounds like it wanted to start. Once started, it ran rough and would stall unless I revved it above 1500 RPM. Still sounded like it occasionally miss fired.
I kept it revved until it reached normal operating temp. When I took my foot slowly off the gas, rpm dropped to about 500-600 and it seemed to pulse . I think engine was raising throttle to keep from stalling. It stalls if I try to put in gear without pressing on gas to raise throttle.
The spark plugs were changed at about 70K mikes. I have not read any codes as the car is stuck in the driveway. Could it be a vacuum leak? I know the Entourages have air intake hose leaks that cause rough idle but with a 6 cyl it still runs. Fuel pump problem?
I have a 2006 V6 Sonata that takes its time to get started. It will crank great, but after a few seconds of trying and no starting, I turn the key to the off position and try it again. Most of the time the car will start on the second attempt, but sometimes it requires a third attempt. Here are the facts as I have observed them:
-I cannot hear the fuel pump engage until a split second before the car actually starts.
-There are no RPMs until the fuel pump engages and the car starts.
-The engine runs really rough for a second while the car initially starts and runs.
-When the car is running, it's really smooth. Like, brand new car smooth.
-This issue happens no matter the time of the day or the temperature of the engine.
-The fuse for the fuel pump is fine.
-The fuel pump relay is fine. I know this because I swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing changed with the starting issue and the horn still worked great.
-A friend used a jumper in the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump would engage and it did.
-Have not used a fuel pressure gauge as we did not have one on hand.
Is there anything else to check besides using the fuel pressure gauge? Have you run into this same issue? If so, what was the cure? I'm averaging about 20 MPG with mostly city driving. Is that normal for the 2006 V6?
Recent work included new spark plugs, a new gasket somewhere because it was weeping oil there (I think it was the part of the engine that you have to remove in order to get to a couple of the plugs), and the idler pulley thingy and it's belt.
The starting issue started before I got this work done. I took it to a repair shop because of the starting issue and they found these other problems. The funny thing is, they claim that the car started perfectly fine for them every time, which is pretty hard to believe. When I picked the car up from the shop, I tried starting it, it didn't start, but the mechanic was right there to see my issue first hand.
My thinking is that the fuel pump is fine because when it does finally start, the engine runs smooth as silk. I love how when I'm going 80 MPH, just a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal and I'm up to a hundred in no time flat. I love this Hyundai V6. Now if I can just get it starting normally.
My 2008 Sonata finally let me down after 4-1/2 years of flawless service. Turned the key, it cranks fine, but won't start. I think it's the fuel pump. It has 63,000 miles now so the bumper-to-bimper warranty is over. Is the fuel pump (if that's it) covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty? I checked fuses and they are all fine. I don't know if there is a fuel cutoff switch. It might just be the pump relay...but I want to have it towed, and the choice is dealer or my regular mechanic.
View 7 Replies2011 f150 5.0... When I turn the key it cranks for about 10 secs I don't hear the fuel pump come on what should I check first before replacing the pump....
View 3 RepliesMy cousin has a 99 1.8T passat and its been sitting for a bit so initially I thought it was the battery but it is fine. The car cranks and it turns over but it will not start. It was fine than it was left for a few days when it was cold and has not started since.
I am not too farmiliar with the 1.8T .... I pulled out the dipstick and found the oil to be a little cloudy, that got me worried but last time it was driven the car was fine. It also looks kinda green but I am not sure if its the coolant since the coolant in the reservior is red or maybe orange.
2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
My wife went to use our 2004.5 Passat V6 4Motion and it takes quite a few cranks for the engine to turn over and start. It sounds like the battery is losing it's charge. When running, none of the idiot lights show anything.
I have a couple questions: Could the alternator be damaged and isn't charging the battery or is it possible for the battery to be going after only 4.5 years?
If it's just the battery, how easy is it to replace? I've done them on previous cars, but with all of the electronics and stuff, I'm concerned since it's behind the firewall and I've read stories about it losing all of the electronics. I couldn't see an easy way to remove it, but I didn't spend much time looking.
I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
View 7 Replies99 Ford Ranger disguised as Mazda B2500. (Same vehicle I think) 5 speed manual, 4 cyl., no a/c. Bought new and maintained according to schedule. Randomly fails to start. Cranks but won't turn over. I try several hours later and am able to start it. Mechanic has not been able to duplicate the failure to start. Checked thoroughly and finds no problem. I am very hesitant to drive it like this.
View 6 RepliesI just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
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