Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Coolant Level In The Exact Middle Of High And Low Just After 25 Minutes Of Highway Drive
Dec 20, 2013
OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
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About 4 months ago, the car stalled out on the highway. I was going slow because traffic was building up and the car just stopped. I was able to get off to the side. I turned it off, waited a few minutes and then it started up with no problem. I drove it with many stops and starts for about 2 weeks until I could get an appointment with the dealer. The computer did not show a problem. Then in April, the same thing happened. This time, they replaced the Body assy-throttle and./or gasket. Yesterday, the same thing happened though not on a highway but on a city street. There is no noise before the stall, no warning.
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16 K miles- the noise level when highway driving is beyond belief-- difficult to hear the radio and conversation is a strain. Tires are beginning to cup. Close a front door with a window open produces cheap noise, not a solid thump. Toyota agrees there is noise, but will do nothing about it. " that is the way they are".
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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I just did my 60k km service at dealer. And in the next morning, I found out that they pour too much G12 coolant into the reservoir. It is way more above the maximum line. I have booked another service appointment on next monday, but I am just wondering if the car still safe to drive?
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Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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After like 20 minutes drive, my car smells like coolant. but it doesn't leak or something. The coolant is on max, and doesn't move at all. so whats that smell. Everybody said you are leaking coolant, but it isn't.
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Is it normal for the rear defroster to only defrost the middle of the window. The top and bottom don't defrost. Does this have to do with the antenna?
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited. I have issues with the gas gauge. At times when I start the car I can literally watch the fuel level go all the way down to Empty and the low fuel light will go on. I can leave the car running for a few mins then it will go back up. I can also be driving and the gauge will go up and down. I have gotten to the point where I just reset the trip counter and monitor the miles that way.
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I was auto crossing yesterday with about half a tank and I noticed my fuel gauge read 40miles to empty after one of my runs. I filled it back up to the top and it still reads almost empty. Im out of warranty so Is there something I can check before taking to the dealer?
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I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
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Fourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
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Recharging the A/C on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS.
I think I have a slow leak, so I bought a DIY and was going to recharge it and see if that fixes it. Where exactly is the low pressure port so I can charge it?
Is it complicated to do? Looking for a picture of the location?
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I was wondering if there is a dipstick for checking the automatic transaxle fluid. I have searched my car and the owner's manual but have yet to find anything that addresses the auto transaxle. If I have managed to overlook it just give me a page number in the manual.
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After about 10-15 minutes, following a cold start, this 2007 BMW X3 3.0 six does the following:
1) automatic cabin fan behaves erratically, jumping back and forth between low and high speeds;
2) cabin air does not heat;
3) electric radiator fans run on high;
4) coolant temp rises to normal, but then will suddenly jump up to full hot.
At this point, driver of course pulls over and shuts off engine. The amazing part is this: the engine can be re-started IMMEDIATELY and all of the above problems vanish instantly. Radiator fans shut off, temp returns to normal, cabin fan works normally, and cabin heat comes on. I'm thinking sticking thermostat, but why does shutting off the car momentarily fix it? Change of water pressure when coolant pump stops running?
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My 2012 Sonata has the erratic fuel level indication. I've read enough posts here to pretty much assume I need to replace the sending unit.
I could go with OEM, but it seems this has plagued Hyundais for many years and across many models.
While I have the (fuel pump, filter & sender) assembly out (of the tank), when (miles) is it recommended to replace the fuel filter?
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I have an issue with the transmission not allowing me to shift from Park if I drive for couples of minutes unless I re-start the car. Also, if I drive for couples of minutes while I'm putting the cruise control on Standby mode or ON, it will shut off by itself along with the light for the economy driving mode.And again if I re-start the car everything will work.
This video will show you what I'm talking about : [URL] ....
My car is GLS 2011 and has 85,000 miles.
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Just bought a 2002 Prius for my daughter at an auction and the car has been driving fine the last few days even though the hybrid warning light has been on and off. Found no fault code with OBDII. Found out later from Toyota service history the cause of the hybrid warning light was a leaked hybrid battery. The previous owner disposed the car off at the auction before the problem was fixed.
I was driving today and the coolant high temperature came on and I can't rev/drive. Stopped engine and re-start after a while and coolant high temperature warning light gone. Drove a short distance and coolant high temperature warning light came back on. Used a OBDII and found no fault code. Radiator hose by the radiator cap is cold but hose at the top right side of radiator by the hybrid system is hot. Opened radiator cap and it is full of coolant.
The car has been serviced on 12/26/2012 before it went to the auction. Can air pocket trapped in the radiator cause this coolant high temperature warning light and can't rev/drive problem. Also today is the first time we didn't use the heater. We used the heater to defog the windscreen and heater work.
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When I'm driving at a certain speed (usually between 65-70 mph), my 06 Sonata GLS V6 develops a really soft (but really annoying) high-pitched whine that decreases when you take your foot off the gas. Not much at other speeds (sometimes it will kick in real quick at high rpm before the automatic trans shifts), but when the car hits 66-67 mph that little subtle whine kicks in. By 75 mph, it's gone (I drive 75+). Sounds just like a high-pitched dog whistle.
Not a wind noise....sometimes it sounds like it comes from below me, sometimes it sounds like it's coming from the dash. Dealer don't hear anything (of course), even when I'm in the car with the tech and can hear it (maybe I'm part dog.....who knows).
Here's my guess.......I think that it's the electric fuel pump. Sometimes if I'm outside the car, I'll hear a whine back in the fuel area that is almost the same pitch as the whine I hear at 70. Since the whine varies (or disappears) with engine rpm and application of the gas pedal, my thought is that I'm hearing the fuel pump hit a certain pitch, which causes the whine.
2006 Sonata?
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