Ive noticed that if I start my car, and put it into drive, there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves after hitting the gas. It almost feels like the car is stalling, but it's not. It only happens that first time after a cold start.
If I put my car into reverse first, like when backing out of the garage, it doesn't do it. Only when going directly from park to drive. Is this normal?
Have a noise from cold starts in the morning when it is cold outside? Mine does a ticking noise, no not the normal ticking noise, but a different ticking noise like something is tapping something. Could this be that the fuel injectors or cold so it makes a louder noise? Another noise is constant clicking when I decelerate or am going very slow. It only does this when it is cold outside and it lasts for about 10 to 15 minutes and then the noise becomes a lot quiter. Is this normal?
View 16 RepliesSo I have a 2012 Sonata with about 80k miles on it. I bought it used a few months ago. It has recently started having issues with the brakes.
When the car is cold and I start driving, every time I push down on the brakes they will do a quick grab after a few seconds. Sometimes its a slight grab and other times its a jerking grab. After I drive 10-20 miles or so and it warms up this goes away.
I got the fuel pump and fuel pump control module replaced. Now I am still getting a cold start delay (5-10 seconds to start) and it has a rough idle sounding like its misfiring. This happened when i picked it up at the dealership after a new fuel pump BUT! keep in mind it has been doing this for a while so i figured it was the fuel pump.
New oem plugs and the coils were replaced when i bought the car because the coils failed during a test drive I need to scan the codes but i will post. Also this only happens during a cold start. if the car is warm and i go into target or something then start it shortly after its fine.
TSB'S I think will fix this. [URL] .....
I have been getting no throttle response intermittently. I will be driving usually at lower speeds and all of a sudden the engine with slow down and there will be no response to the throttle pedal. It will come back quickly. Also the ESC light sometimes comes on and yesterday I could not set the cruise control. Today it had this problem but the ESC light was off and cruise control worked.
View 23 RepliesI got my d2 coils installed yesterday, everything looks good, however when I'm in throttle it shakes a little. When I'm coasting its fine.
I'm getting an alignment tomorrow they said it could fix the problem a little but the cause of the vibrations is because the angle the axels are in now. Thinking of raising it a little if after the alignment it's still there.
Feel that VW has tuned down the throttle response of 2.5 I5. Well after having the car 2 weeks now, I don't hate the engine as much, and I don't think the issue I am having is with the engine it-self. In sport mode and tip mode it is much better, Once the car decides to give me what I want, it has plenty power. But in auto mode, It has to do with starting off from first gear at a stop. I really believe it has to be a software problem the way the throttle is mapped in the DBW. The problem is there is little throttle response off the line. Like I push the accelerator down halfway quickly, and the engine throttle opens maybe 1/8 and slowly goes to 1/2 like 5 seconds later. It's more of a drive-ability problem. It's like no other car i have ever driven. If I give half throttle, I expect the car to open to half throttle immediately, and not delay it. I really hope VW comes up with a fix for this, I'm sure it is just a programing problem. So am I the only one?
View 3 RepliesI've noticed that my throttle response is pretty weak. Doesn't seem to just go when ya put the pedal down. I mean it goes but not as fast as i think it should. is this how it is on all our cars? kinda seems like it has a hesitation or something. Anything I could do about this?
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Its been happening to me for a while now, but it seems to be more frequent. ill b driving around casually, go to pass someone or just accelerate hard then quickly up shift and get back on the throttle. I hear the engine begin to rev up again after the gear change but it takes a second or so until i feel the car continue accelerating. also i can feel the haldex system when it switches between fwd and awd or whatever it does. like you can hear it catch and def feel it lurch around. and clutch pedal vibrate a lot when any pressure is applied to it. is this normal?
View 24 RepliesI'm getting pretty significant throttle response delay in my 2013 Elantra w/ Tech. It's pretty egregious in stop-and-go traffic when I attempt to accelerate, wait a second before my car responds, and then get jerked forward, only to stop a second later.
I emailed Hyundai and was told to speak to the dealership. I called up the dealership and they had no idea what I was talking about. I emailed another local dealership, and they didn't get back to me. Pretty annoyed at this point.
I did a search on this forum and found some threads discussing resetting the throttle system by resetting the ECM. Wasn't too confident in doing that myself and I didn't want to mess up my car's computer system at all. I'd like the dealership to take care of this under warranty, but if they haven't heard anything about this, then I'm not sure how to proceed. What my next move should be?
For the most part, I'm pretty happy with my 2010 Santa Fe SE (V6 AWD Automatic).
When I'm coming up to a yield sign, or otherwise slowing down to say 5-10 miles an hour but not a complete stop, and then when I start to try to go again, there is a hesitation and then the vehicle kind of jerks as it starts. It's like it takes a half second to a second for the throttle to respond, and by then it revs higher than I expect. I don't know if it's the throttle delay or a delay downshifting before it starts, or a combination of the two.
I've also noticed that a half second or so delay when just sitting in park and quickly pressing the throttle and releasing. I can press the pedal to about 50% and release it before the RPMs respond at all. Then it'll rev up and back down as you'd expect, just not WHEN you'd expect.
I recently purchased a 2012 Golf Sportline 2.5 auto. I also currently own a 2006 Jetta and 2008 Rabbit both 2.5 automatics. Both older cars run and drive great with this engine and tranny combination for me. However with the 2012 I really notice a throttle delay when accelerating from a stop and a very early shift into 6th gear when in the gear selector is in drive mode causing engine lugging. Shifts into 6'th at 60 kph doing 1100 RPM.
This I find is very annoying compared to my other two VW's which have better throttle response and shift a little later into 6'th allowing the engine to turn at 1400 RPM allowing for better acceleration without having to kick it down a gear.
I have taken it back to the dealer hoping for a ECM flash update but nothing is available from VW and my vehicle ECM has all other current settings and updates. I ve looked into aftermarket solutions such as the Sprint Booster which allows for a more responsive pedal but based on my other VW's my 2012 should not preform like this.
Picked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.
Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...
I've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.
My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.
This happened once right after I bought the car in February and the service center said that I didn't have low tire pressure, but it registered because "cold air makes the air molecules move slower and sets off the tire pressure sensor". Yet all my tires are at 37 psi. Now this stopped all through the spring, summer and fall and last night it went down to 32 degrees and the thing popped up again!
View 4 RepliesHad a really cold day here, got on the highway and from around 80-100 km/hr the car had bad vibration, would be unbearable for any extended time. I got up to about 120 and the vibration lessened.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1993 corolla that runs fine once warm. The problem is a cold idle problem. When starting it cold, it dies unless you feather the throttle. I can keep it running by feathering the throttle until it warms up. Once warm it runs fine. If I let off of the throttle at all during the warmup period, it dies instantly. How does the choke work on these vehicles? Could it be a IACV problem? Anything else it could be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo Limited and the A/C seems to only be blowing cold air from passenger vents, and on driver side "warm/ hot ". What steps or what i can do to get this fixed.
View 3 RepliesI'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
View 10 RepliesI own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Everything with the vehicle is fine until November of 2015. I noticed that the passenger side is blowing cold air when it should be blowing hot air. The driver side is fine. I thought it was a thermostat issue. At first I didn't change it until I noticed that the temperature gauge was acting up and realized that my thermostat was stuck open which made the engine over cooled. Once I replace the thermostat, I thought it would solve the issue with the passenger side blowing cold air but it did not. Basically its not a heater core issue, blend door is fine, the hoses that runs to and from the radiator to the firewall is fine and the one that runs to the water pump is good. I closed the passenger vents so only the driver side blows hot air. Its an annoying problem. I know the dealer can fix it but they want an arm and leg and it seems like I may be forced to take it to get it fixed.
View 1 RepliesWhen I'm stopped at a red light for a while I notice that my car doesn't blow cold air anymore, there's tons of blowing but feels like its just normal outside air being blown into the cabin even with re circulation on and AC on.
I've tried turning the AC on and off again at the light, and nothing changes...
I also notice sometimes the AC would decide to blow a little stronger, then let off again. Not sure if the problem is RPM related , i.e. IDLE issue or what.
Just wanted to see what fellow i45+ owners had in mind to what could be causing this issue... I've read something about condenser being clogged, and what not, but I have to be sure.
It works again and starts blowing cold air as long as I'm moving, so I guess it's not that big of an issue, but the hot temperatures here in South Florida can surely give you heat strokes in matter of minutes.