Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Cold Air Blowing On Passenger Side
Jan 25, 2016
I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Everything with the vehicle is fine until November of 2015. I noticed that the passenger side is blowing cold air when it should be blowing hot air. The driver side is fine. I thought it was a thermostat issue. At first I didn't change it until I noticed that the temperature gauge was acting up and realized that my thermostat was stuck open which made the engine over cooled. Once I replace the thermostat, I thought it would solve the issue with the passenger side blowing cold air but it did not. Basically its not a heater core issue, blend door is fine, the hoses that runs to and from the radiator to the firewall is fine and the one that runs to the water pump is good. I closed the passenger vents so only the driver side blows hot air. Its an annoying problem. I know the dealer can fix it but they want an arm and leg and it seems like I may be forced to take it to get it fixed.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo Limited and the A/C seems to only be blowing cold air from passenger vents, and on driver side "warm/ hot ". What steps or what i can do to get this fixed.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 40k miles and am hearing what sounds like a dragging ... medal touching medal .... brakes dragging sound coming from the passenger side mainly when the car is cold. Could this be a possible wheel bearing going out???
the car is lowered about an 1.5 inches and and sit on a staggered wheel set. 18x8.5 up front and 18x9.5 in the rear. Just want to know if I should be worried.
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I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. Just recently when I have the air turn on, it blows warm/hot air on the drivers side where the passenger side is cold as ice??? What gives??? I have the dual zone feature, and the drivers site is warm weather its on dual zone or regular.
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On my 2003 GX 470 w/ 135,000 I have an issue that I can't figure out how to resolve.
The driver side lets out hot heat and the passenger side lets out cold air. I have the dual climate control and both sides are at MAX HEAT with the blower on HIGH. I have 2 vents for each the passenger and the driver.
The left side of steering wheel vent is allowing max heat. the right side of steering wheel vent lets out warm air. Not as hot as left side but warm. On the passenger side, its only letting out cold air and gets colder if I lower the temp on the climate control for right side.
Engine coolant is full, no lights on dash. Blower motor sounds like its working fine.
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My A/C is blowing Cold on the drivers side and very hot on the passenger side. I need to know if it could only be the Right Actuator or if it could be that or the temp control module or low refrigerant or low coolant. I am Disabled and need to know how to track it down before i order an actuator.
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Where the Air Door Actuator is located in the Elantra 2014, and How to reach it?
I want to check it as my AC is blowing Hot air from driver side and Cold air from passenger side.
I read that there are 2 of them, one for temp control and another one controls where the air goes, one at the passenger side and one at the driver side...
Which one should i start with, where is it located, and how to reach it?
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I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe with the 4.8L V8. My A/C is blowing hot on the drivers side and cold on passenger side. There is only one controller, not two. What the problem could be...and I'm scared to ask...how much it may cost to fix? It has happened only one other time and that was a year ago, and it has worked fine since then until today.
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My 1.8 2014 Elantra AC started blowing Hot Air from Driver Side and Cold from Passenger side and i noticed this after a battery problem. It all started when battery problem, suddenly both sides warm ac, i took it to a mechanic, he said nothing to do with battery and said it is a freon problem, he fixed it for 1 day or 2, and i went changed the battery, then suddenly, one side hot and one side cold.
Things i tried:
1. Removing AC fuses for 1 hour
2. Removing AC fuses while car on and then turn off car and replace fuses
3. Changed car filters
4. Hot cold hot cold switching technique
5. No freon leakage
Temperature here is around 120 degrees so you can imagine!
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I bought this 06 Prius in April and it has been a nightmare. I have an 05 and thought "I love this car so much, I want another!". I didn't do a good job inspecting the car before I got it, but oh well. Here we are at the dealership because my Driver side AC was blowing warm and the passenger side was nice and cool. $300 later, they call me up and say they have drained all the Freon because theres an obstruction causing the pressure on the high side to get so high that the compressor purge valve has to kick in and their AC machine shut off to protect the car.
He said it would cost 1700 to replace the Expansion Valve and the Receiver Drier, and that they weren't positive that would fix the issue, but that its the first step before replacing the Compressor. He said normally they'd suspect the compressor is going out, but he said it appears to be operating okay. Their opinion was that there is an obstruction in the line - most likely some sort of metal - which is causing the obstruction and the pressure on the high side to go to extreme levels.
Pressure on the low side he said was okay.
Here is the text from the service receipt:
Performed A/C inspection and all vents appear to operate fine. No leaks seen. Lots of debris in front of the condenser. Suspect system low on Freon. Perform evac and recharge. Installed dye.
Pressures:
High: 130psi
Low: 15psi
Used 1.1lbs of freon then noticed the restriction. Removed freon. recommend replace expansion valve receiver dryer, flush lines and replace all necessary o rings.
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I have a 2004 Touareg with a 2-zone climatronic system. A while back (hard to quantify exactly), my wife noted that she couldn't ever get warm on her side. I stuck a temperature sensor in the vents and cycled through the temperature settings on both sides. On the driver's side, the air varied with the setting. On the passenger side, it did not.
The absolute biggest problem I'm having, is that here in Florida, I get ice cold air blowing on the bottom of the windshield which causes significant fogging. I can adjust the air to blow away from the windshield, but I obviously get some "blow around" and end up with spots of condensation on the outside of the window. The condensation is almost solely on the passenger side.
I pulled the dash off and replaced the temperature sensor on the passenger side. It actually fixed the problem -- but that "fix" only seemed to last about two or three weeks. After measuring temperatures, the temperature tracked with the setting -- on both sides. Now, the problem has returned and I'm ready to replace the damper motor for the mixing damper on the passenger side. But, after reviewing the eBahn manual, they need the VAS 5051/5052 to intiate a "service position". . . I obviously don't have the VAS 5051.
So, my questions: Is it damper actuator? I also understand the climatronic module "could" be bad. Could the second temperature sensor have actually gone bad? Can the VAG-COM be used to intiate the service position? If not, what are my options?
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Just had the truck in the dealership for a bad blend door/ heater core case. Heat would only blow out warm on the passenger side, blows cold on drivers side. Dealership replaced the case, heat works normal on both sides now. It was a little warm out yesterday so i turned on the A/C, frosty cold on passenger side, warm on drivers side, temperature does change when i select different temperatures (dual zone.)
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I have an 09 Limited with the dual automatic climate control. It finally got cool enough to start running the heater. The passenger side vents are throwing cold air instead of warm like the drivers side. This includes the windshield defroster. I'm thinking there is a diverter "somewhere" that is not working properly.
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I seem to be having an issue with my air conditioning. I don't think it's an ID-10T error, but it is very peculiar.
My driver side vents blow hot or lukewarm air, however my passenger vents are ice cold. I have the 15 limited, so it does have the "dual" control, and as such I think the issue may be related to that.
Both controls are set to low, max fan, head only, and AC. The "Sync" and "Auto" buttons have no effect.
Any things I can check? I really do not want to bring it into the dealer as they treated me very poorly the last time I came in and my car was out for a month.
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I've had my 2011 Harbor Grey Limited for about 1 month. Love the car but my wife noticed that after it was sitting out in the sun today the passenger B pillar had 3 small bubbles about the size of a dime. By the time that she got home the bubbles were gone and I cannot see any signs of them after closely inspecting the window. It was in the 50f today not very hot at all and not sure if the cold air on the drive home caused the bubbles to disappear.
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Front Right side passenger bulb is out but it has been replaced twice. Where is the fuse and what is the amp?
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My Sonata 2011 Limited passenger side headlight went out yesterday. I checked and the bulb was still good. I even tested it on a brand new bulb (i keep a spare pair with me just in case) without any luck.
I brought the car to the dealer. The service advisor suggested the headlight is out but I explained to him that was not the case. He still wanted me to pay around $95 for the diagnostic fee which i refused to pay since my car is still under the 5year/60K miles warranty. I do not want them later telling me the bulb is bad and I have to pay another $65 to get it replaced while it is still good.
Before that, the left turn signal was blinking rapidly and it is an on and off problem. Hence, I suspected there is a electrical problem with the car. I do not have HID or any additional electrical equipment installed beside what came with the car originally.
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I have a problem with my 2011 sonata, the rear passenger side door lock will not unlock. Whether I use the key fob, the internal door unlock button or the buttons on the door handles from the outside. I can't even get the door open to take the panel off.
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Developed a very annoying plastic creek/ tapping sounds from the passenger side C pillar. Almost sounds like it coming from between the c pillar and the rear window, but can't be sure. It's definitely trim related and not suspension. Also how difficult it would it be to remove the C pillar Plastic cover?
Lastly, how many have had success in getting rattles/ squeaks worked out after the 1 year adjustment warranty? I did mention that on a service visit when it showed up right before the warranty expired, but it was very warm that day and the rattle went away.
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I've got a issue on the passenger side interior of my car that only seems to happen when it's cold/cool. I can hear a rattle coming from something plastic. I've turned off the radio and emptied the glovebox to ensure they weren't at fault.
Here is a recording I made last night with my phone. There was a decent amount of road noise on I-295, but when listening just now from stereo desktop speakers, I could hear the sound.
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Okay. So the past two days I went out to start my car to let it sit for a minute or two. When I went back out I heard a strange noise coming from the passenger side towards the front of the engine. So I got in the car and went to drive out. I shifted into gear and went to pull out and when I turned the steering wheel my battery light came on and the steering wheel got hard. Only lasted for about a second. Then while driving I noticed the passenger side creeks when I hit a bump. Also after driving and parking I noticed my car jumps around slightly at idle
I'll get a video of the noise tomorrow morning...
Also, I do have a custom cold air intake I built myself, and a custom built exhaust.
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