I get clinking sound from my left wheel when I steer left or right. A mechanic here says wheel bearing needs to be replaced. I am sure that is the problem but he says for the replacement (Total along with the bearing).
View 9 RepliesSo I've been getting on increasingly louder noise that's originating in the left front wheel. It sounds like you're driving over road patches (rough spots). It does it worse when shifting the weight to that wheel by taking a right curve. I rotated wheel front to back no change. Brakes look ok. I was thinking wheel bearing but I have no play when I check it. Also it sounds like a general bearing rotation whine that matches road speed.
View 2 RepliesI have recently done some work on my car. I had a clunking noise and needed new rotors, warped. I found out I had a broken coil spring, left front, which I have discovered is fairly common for this car, this was the clunking noise.. About 100k on it. I put on new brake pads, ceramic, and rotors and when I drove the car there was a horrible screeching sound from the left front wheel. Not a sound from the right front. I drove it the first day thinking they would quiet down. They did not.
I took pads off and placed lubricant on the back sides of them, reassembled and drove, no change, still as loud as before. I took all of the brake stuff off and turned the axle and the noise was still there. I changed the wheel bearing thinking that this could be the only thing that would make such a noise. No change with the new wheel bearing! Same noise just as before! I didn't think that this noise could be a half shaft as I thought they mostly made a grinding noise. This is definitely a scraping metal sound, pulses with wheel revolution. I am at a loss as what could be causing this noise.
When I turn my car off there's quite a bit of noise coming from under the car. Basically the sound of the exhaust cooling off but I would say a little excessive. In fact one night I was dropping my son off and left the car running and went to get some stuff out and while it was idling you could hear it. Clink.. clink clink. Same sound when its turned off.
I backed the car up on some ramps yesterday after I had driven it a short distance to see if I can pint point where its coming from and It seems to be in two places. Both where the exhausts are bolted together at a flange. One where the Catalytic converter bolts to the pipe that leads back to the mufflers. And there the 2nd source where just after the Y pipe where it splits off into 2 mufflers.
Is this something that may subside after the car has gotten some miles on it? I'm still well under the first 1k miles.
When I move the wheel to the left, I get this metal grinding sound (similar to rust on brake rotors/worn down brake pads). It happens when the foot is off the brake and ONLY when the wheel is turned to the left.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2011 Sonata Limited that I just purchased used, 20,000 miles. Everything is great besides the fact that the all the controls on the left hand side of the steering wheel will intermittently stop working. I brought it to Hyundai the first time I noticed and they replaced all the buttons but the issue persisted. So, I just picked it up today from them replacing the entire clockspring and the wiring behind it now. It worked great all day until just as I was pulling into my driveway and it happened again.
They basically told me this would 100% fix it because it's the only other thing that could be the issue. However, my gut keeps telling me it could be an issue with the radio itself. I've read a bunch of stuff on here about the issue but there was only a few responses of fixes (all of which I have tried).
Two weeks ago I noticed it was hard to steer my truck left or right. There are no codes and the power steering fluid is at the proper level. I called a ford dealership giving them the codes for the truck seeing there were recalls for power steering problems with Fords but was told my 08 Ford Taurus X was not covered. The other problem I have is I can't find any manuals for this truck.
View 2 RepliesI'm looking to sell my dad's '97 Buick Century Limited, but it has a problem with the steering. The short of the problem is that when you step on the gas the car steers to the left but only when you get on it. The more you get on it the more it goes left.So a little more detail here. So if the steering wheel is aligned correctly, it sits at 9 and 3 o'clock, but it isn't, it sits at 8 and 2. It goes pretty much straight at that position; it would take a couple blocks at least to go from the left side of a lane to the right. It doesn't pull hard or anything, you can easily steer it with one finger.
So the problem comes when you get on the gas, either stopped to cross a road or going 55 to pass on a highway. When you get on it the car starts to vere off to the left if you don't let the steering wheel automatically correct itself back to a 9 and 3 position. So it still goes straight unless you don't let the wheel move. The more you get on it, the more the steering wheel goes back to 9 and 3 position. So if you don't floor it, it won't go all the way back to 9 and 3. As soon as you take your foot off the gas it will automatically correct itself back to the 8 and 2 position. However when you are just cruising the wheel is at 8 and 2, doesn't matter if your going 15, 30, 50 or 75 mph.
99 Buick, 170xxx miles. Pulled to the right, so much so that I had to steer to the left to go straight. After getting a 4 wheel alignment, it drives straight and I can't feel it pull while holding the wheel, but if you let go of the wheel it veers to the right. What I should check? Is is possible the tires are causing this?
View 11 RepliesI bought a HID kit from XenonSupply a few weeks ago, installed it following their video exactly, and it's been working fine so far but yesterday the left bulb stopped turning on.
I opened the hood and made sure everything was still connected and it was. After opening the hood, I noticed the passenger side ballast (the working one) was buzzing and the driver side ballast wasn't buzzing (and not working).
After getting in my car, I turned my lights off and on about 10-20 times and FINALLY both turned on. But now, sometimes when I turn my car on, they both turn on OR only the passenger side turns on.
I called XenonSupply and they told me it's a bad connection with the grounding wire, but my friend who knows a lot more about how cars work than I do looked at it and told me the connection was fine, but the ballast is probably bad.
Had my tires rotated yesterday and now the car is pulling noticeably left. On a flat road, if I let go of the wheel I change lanes in about 3 to 4 seconds depending on speed. Also, the faster I am going, the worse the pull feels. Before the rotation, the car would pull very slightly to the right sometimes but only enough for me to wonder if it was pulling or if it was my imagination.
One other detail, the tire that is now on the left front is newer than the others due to a pothole eating the last one. It is the same hankook tire in type and size. Just with less miles on it. It was previously on the front right. I've seen the threads on the pulling issue and the 18 step TSB and all of that but nothing about rotation or the pulling following a specific wheel or tire. Could the rolling resistance of a newer tire really cause that much of a pull?
My issue is I am getting ready to leave for a road trip and can't get in for an alignment or for someone to go through the whole TSB. I think I might switch the 2 front wheels.
I bought this car about three months ago. And got alignment done twice. Thought may be first time he didn't do properly. After alignment second time, having same issue.
Car pulls to left. I have to keep steering wheel pulling to the right all the time. When I leave it. It slightly turns to left. And car starts going to left.
But in even roads it turns to left. Where some roads are tilting to right. Steering wheel turns to left as usual. But car goes straight. If I take my foot of the accelerator it does less. But when I accelerate or have cruise control ON on freeway it does this more.
From home to destination my hand always pulling steering wheel to right. I have also rotated the tyres. Alignment is done twice. What can be the problem.
I just had my JUNBL exhaust installed over the weekend. Problem is, the left exhaust tip is touching the bumper. I was thinking of cutting the bumper part where it hits or changing the rubber mount to a longer one to bring the muffler lower (dunno if I can find a longer rubber mount) Everything was installed on the stock location of the stock exhaust with no modifications. Pictures attached. 2nd picture is on the left. Although not hitting the bumper, might have to modify that as well.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Camry LE 24K miles and just now the car steering wheel moves to the left when braking. Can it be that the tires need balancing.
View 4 RepliesI bought a 2002 F250, 2 months ago love the truck drives great for 130000 miles, but the front left steer is making a lot of noise and wearing on the inside edge and like its skipping every couple inches so very noisy thought maybe ball joints but a buddy say tire is out of balance truck does not pull left or right and drives straight...
View 3 Replies2010 Sonata Sport. At first I thought it was a rock in one of my breaks but its gotten nothing but worse. I have a LOUD screeching noise from my front passenger wheel, it happens when I turn left and also when i use my breaks (but not every time). It started yesterday and has got nothing but worse. Literally seems the more i drive the worse it gets. There is no play in my steering wheel but there's always been a VERY MILD vibration in the wheel between 100 - 120 km/h. But then stops.
View 3 Replies2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
Symptom: Earlier today, I noticed my 2011 Subaru Impreza was stuttering when I turned the wheel completely left or right. Not only was it stuttering, but the battery light would flicker as though the battery was going to die. I made it to Auto Zone to check my battery and alternator, both of which passed.
However, while I was showing him the issue, when I turned the wheel completely right or left, the power steering pump pulley would stop spinning, then struggle to start spinning again. However, the belt would continue to run as it's being pulled by other accessories, but the power steering pulley would still struggle to spin. (Over time, my guess is that friction would eventually burn up the belt and cause it to break.)
Recent Work : I've had the A/C belt, serpentine, and the timing belt (with all accessories) replaced within the last 5,000 miles.I've replaced power steering fluid within the last 2,000 miles. This morning, I tried removing the reservoir cap and turned the steering wheel to remove air bubbles. It didn't work. The hesitation and stuttering is getting worse.
Diagnosis : At first glance, I would guess the power steering pump is failing, but I'm not a mechanic, therefore it's just an educated guess.
06 sonata v6 standard 16in tires. I do all my maintenance, but i am stumped. A sound that is best described as a rattle crossed with a metal object (bolt/nut) rolling down a rail. Strange i know. Checked for rubbing, nothing. Made sure all bolts and nuts were correctly tight. Does it whether braking or not during any speed. May be dropped object, but neither I or a mechanic could repeat during Right hand turn. I have changed my front pads and dbl checked that is not the cause ( was doing it before change anyway) my fear is I'm missing something and am fearful of a mechanical failure.
View 9 RepliesWhen I shut the car off and just sit in the car, I hear a very odd tapping noise coming from the dash to the left of the steering wheel. It taps 3-4 times, stops for 20 seconds, and taps again 3-4 times. This process repeats a few times and then stops completely. What on earth could it be? I'm thinking its a bad relay or perhaps the car is possessed. I'm not sure I could reproduce for the dealer.
View 15 RepliesOn my way into work this morning, I started to notice a rattling sound coming from my left rear wheel. By the end of my :45 min drive, it was a loud continuous bang. After limping the car to my office, I inspected the recently repaired rear shock to find the bolts securing it to the vehicle were gone!
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