Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Clicks Like Bad Battery When Trying To Start
Mar 21, 2016
Charged battery, tried adding my 100amp charger "jump" mode on when starting, took off ground and ground down to metal where it attaches, cleaned all the contacts, tried a known good battery. Yet the car still clicked when trying to start it. I removed the starter and wired it with appropriate gauged wire, and had someone turn the key while I held the starter and it operated as it should, no clicking. What should I try next before I re-install the starter, so I don't end up having the system clicking like there is a dead battery again? Because I certainly didn't fix anything.
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The other day was putting gas and when I replaced cap and tighten it, it no longer clicked. Is this a sign that I need a new one? So far the check engine light hasn't come on at all since this has happened.
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2011 Sonata. One Fob not detected. Tried other Fob also not detected. I suspected this was not a coincidence but replaced both batteries anyway. Still key not detected. Cars starts and runs fine using alternate start method by placing fob in console. Where is my problem??
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I had to take my car for Oil Change and I had the driver door lock replaced. I think it is a common problem with the Sonatas to have the driver door power lock issue.
The mechanic was doing it by the book so he decided to disconnect the battery before proceeding. His work is really neat, the door is working again.
After leaving the shop, I noticed the Check engine Light coming on! I have one of these BT modules, so I checked the code and it says: P0106. The car is idling fine, driving fine and there is no noticeable issues what so ever.
I stopped on the side, turned off the engine and with ignition on, I did reset the MIL. But the MIL came back in the second driving cycle. (turn off and then on).
Do you think I need a new MAP sensor? I've seen some Optima's owners with similar problem but I can't find how the problem has ended with them.
Today, I drove to work, 45 Miles with the coded pending. Once arrived to work, I turned off and then on the car and the MIL is on again.
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My battery is dead, but I need to drive for 5 hours. Can I boost it and drive for 5 hours on the highway? Would this damage my car? I can replace the battery when I get home.
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Just put a new battery in our 2011 Sonata, now the radio doesn't turn on. Didn't find anything in the owners manual about this, and when I called the service dept at my dealer they said "I don't know, you'll have to bring it in". Hope it might be something simple to reset?
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 55,000 miles. I was told to replace the plugs and battery by my local automotive shop. I decided to do it myself to save a couple of dollars just this past week. I filled up the car today and noticed the MPG dropped significantly. Normally a full the tank shows I have 420 miles to go. Today it showed 370 a difference of 50 miles.
I have two ideas why this happened:
1) Replacing the battery has caused the computer to reset and as a result it is showing the wrong mileage. After a week or two of running the correct mileage will show. I drove the car about 150 miles after changing the battery and thought this would of been enough time for the computer to figure out the MPG if this was the problem.
2) I caused damage to the Iridium plugs when I gapped them and did not notice it. I used Autolite XP6203 model and gapped them at .044. Autolites do not come pre-gapped I was told. The car is not hesitating and runs smooth. I am thinking this is the problem but not 100% certain.
Is my idea about the computer valid and I should give it some time to recalculate MPG? I am thinking to give it a couple of tanks of gas and see if the car fixes itself
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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Got a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
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2 months ago I got my battery replaced when it started dying very often. Now the same thing persists, if I don't use the car for two days the battery dies again. I took it to the dealer and got it tested and the dealer gave me a report saying the battery is good. I have to jump start it every time.
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS A/T
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Got a 2011 Sonata back in 2010, drove for 4.5 years and battery is finally showing weakness this winter, planning to replace the battery, but unable to find the recommended battery specs from the owner's manual.
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I just brought home a shinny new 2012 Hyundai Sonata Limited with Nav and it's awesome! Just discovered something though...
When the engin is off and I am running the radio I get the Battery Discharge Warning pop up on the Nav screen accompanied by a beep. It goes off every minute or so.
This is going to be annoying next time I go to the drive in that we like to frequent as we need to play the audio on the FM radio with the car turned off.
How I can turn this off or disable the sounds at least?
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I had a sensor error which caused my battery to drain. The computer thinks my door is unlocked when it is locked, leaving the door open image on the dashboard. This caused my battery to drain totally. What the damage would be for a new battery and fixing the door sensor ?
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I was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
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I have been out of the country for the past 3 months and I left my car at my parents place. I have a 2011 Sonata SE with Nav. I got a call from my dad saying that my car is dead (battery) and the doors have locked. He previously was able to jump the car since he was able to open the doors with the key fob remote. Now the doors will not open. I assume the battery has died beyond where the key fob can open them. I return back home this week and would like to be able to deal with this headache before I return and come back to a working car. How to get into the car or at least popping the hood without being able to get in the car? I've read up about other cars having a backup battery or special mechanism on the door handle for these situations so I would think Hyundai thought this through...
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I replaced the battery in my 2011 Sonata. After the install I reset the radio, clock etc. and everything seemed to work fine electronically. The car was very low on gas and when I filled it later that same day the "Distance to Empty" display in the dash only read 271 miles after fill up. Typically when it is filled it reads 550+ to empty. After three tank fulls the display now reads 375 when filled up. Is there a reboot for this function? Does it have to be done by a dealer?
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I have a 2010 hyundai sonata -- I purchased brand new in May2010. I've recently been having an issue with filling up my gas tank -- the nozzle clicks off too early! I live in NJ (so i'm not pumping my own gas), so I usually tell the attendant that it should take roughly $40 worth, and they'll restart it.. but sometimes it clicks off multiple times! It's becoming more and more frequent, also! And, yesterday, I got to the point where I just told the attendant to forget it, because it clicked off 3 times in a row! But, when I started my car, I only had between half and 3/4 of a tank??
I've filled up at multiple stations and have had the same problem consistently. I commute over 100 miles a day to/from work, so I'm filling my tank every 4 or 5 days.. the car currently has a little over 20k miles on it.
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Relatively new Prius owner. I have a 2007 Touring model. I have two concerns I'm hoping some veterans can address for me.
1. I noticed last night that my left HID headlight turns off randomly (I saw it in the reflection of the car in front of me). I turned off the lights and turned them back on, and the headlight was working again for about 5 minutes before turning off again. This consistently happens so I'm pretty much driving with only one headlight on. The right headlight isn't having this problem, luckily.
Looks like Toyota had a settlement over the issue. I would post a link but since I'm a new users it's not allowing it.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and have had trouble getting it started. A few days ago it kept turning but wouldn't start. I tried jumping it and nothing. Then it randomly turned on. I thought it was the battery and switched that out today but now it won't start at all. Sounds like it's trying to and then has a noise that keeps going for about 10 seconds after . I've seen other posts about issues with the 2.4L engines and am wondering if I'm having the same problem. I have a video for it here: [URL] .....
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I have replaced the battery, a fuse and the car will not start in park. When I shift in to neutral the car will start.
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'12 GLS with 45k on the odo. Keyed ignition, not a push button.
Did a 45000 mile recommended service, oil change with full synthetic, and throttle body service (cleanout) On Friday (July 3).
Drove it 70 miles on Saturday (July 4) with no problems...35 miles, sat for 10 hours, drive 35 more. 85 degrees outside and 60% humidity.
Drove it today (July 5) for ten miles, sat for 2 hours and 30 minutes. 87 degrees outside and 50% humidity.
Attempted to start after the 2.5 hours off. Starter cranked, but motor never caught and started. Tried five times. Nice crank (battery strong). Motor Still didn't catch. Third time motor almost caught, but it sputtered out.
Sixth time I let it crank for 7 seconds and it finally caught and started. CEL illuminated and stayed on all the way to the dealer (<1 mile from where I was) where left it for Monday diagnostics.
Spark should have been good.
Fuel and air were the unknown. TB service on Friday might make air the culprit. I also saw the high pressure fuel pump issue people reported. Not happy about having to possibly shell out 800-1100 for that! Also read about the oil starvation on the bearings, but the car exhibited no oil starvation symptoms (rattle, loss of power, etc).
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