Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Check Engine Codes P0014 And P0011
Feb 28, 2015
Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
Weekend trip in the 09 Avalon and after stopping for fuel i end up with a check engine light and two codes P0014 and P0015, camshaft over advance bank 1. Cleared the codes but came back hours later. What am i looking at to correct this problem?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
View 3 RepliesAlright, so I was driving along and everything was fine, I had no error lights and the car was running perfectly. I accidentally went over a lip of this parking lot a little too fast and all of a sudden the check engine light came on!!! I took it to Jiffy Lube and the codes I got were : c1253, c1311, p0011, and p0012. Is my car safe to drive tomarrow? Are these super expensive to fix? Could they have been set off from the curb?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
View 36 RepliesI recently bought a 08 Sonata V6, with 94K mileage. The oil pressure light comes on when the engine is idle (around 700-800 rpm). The seller told me that this problem started a few months ago, but the car has not been used much since then. He also said that he has changed the oil after that, but the problem still persists.
The engine light has shown up more recently, like in a week or two. I took the car to a mechanic and he could not guess what the problem might be. But he gave me the error codes: P0011, and P0051. There are no other obvious symptoms (e.g. oil leakage, low oil level, unusual sound from the engine).
I could not find any thread regarding both of these issues (Oil Pressure, and the error codes) together. Any connection between these two?
So far, I have realized that the oil pressure can be due to a bad sensor, and P0011 has something to do with CVVT, and Oil Control Valve (OCV). But I would like to make sure I don't just waste money by replacing the sensor and OCV.
The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
View 9 Replies 2008 Toyota Prius Touring. I got a Check Engine Light while at a drive-thru, and my "Automatic" adapter reports this:
I drove the remaining ~60 miles home without incident, and the engine seems to be running smoothly and I don't notice any loss of power or rough idling or anything along those lines.
Going by the first few Google results, a P0011 error could indicate a few things:
-Incorrect camshaft timing
-Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
-Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
-Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
I've had this car for ~3 years and have always been super careful about regular oil changes and maintenance, including dropping an ungodly amount of money getting the "full 100,000 mile service package" at the dealership ~6 months ago.
Suddenly getting a P0011 error code and Check Engine light on a well-maintained 2008 Prius w/ 112,000 miles.
Check engine light and P0010 code in my Gen III 2010 Prius...
View 2 RepliesCar keeps tripping P0885 P0890 codes and sets engine light on. I've tried swapping ATN relay and cleaning connector in TCM and Relay box. It's intermittent comes on at least every other day. Shifts fine when engine light reset. But when the P0885 comes up it goes into limp mode. Just bought this car We bought an after market warranty but shop say they won't cover Engine light codes or intermittent.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
I just picked up my 'new'/used 2006 sonata! unfortunately, about 11 months in now, i have a check engine light and some codes; a local store told me what the codes were (i haven't got a code reader yet) and as i was researching them it sounds like either a bad O2 sensor or just the wiring going to it.?.? Codes are P0160, P2273, P0158. How can i tell what is actually bad? I am 'ok' at 'fixing'; just trying to save from an expensive garage repair if at all possible.
View 4 RepliesMy 'check engine' warning light just came on after only 12,000 km on my 2011 GLS. What emission control part would be the first to fail? I ran my 06 Sonata 100,000 km+ and never saw any warning lights! And no, it's not a loose gas cap!
View 13 RepliesGot a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
View 4 RepliesCheck engine light on and off. Code shows turbo boost throttle position sensor is the problem. I can't find a part with that name.
View 10 Replies2 weeks ago I had the check engine light come up on my 2011 F-250 6.2 XLT. Did a diagnostic check and Codes P2098 and P2272 came up. Did some research and found out the second O2 sensor on passenger side had gone bad. I replaced it with a Motorcraft O2 sensor and cleared the code. It has not came back since. But still not getting the fuel mileage I got before. What else could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesI own a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7 in it. It has 136000 on it and zero mods. I was driving over the weekend and the traction control light, brake light, and the ABS lights all came on and the information center displayed Check Brake System. We were towing our 5th wheel when this happened. The brakes on the pickup and trailer both work and we have no problems stopping. About every 15 minutes or so this message pops up and it chimes again. My insight is reading a U0418 code. We are stopped now and the code and alert message is still popping up without the trailer. All fluid levels are where they should be.
We are also getting a check engine light and my Insight is reading the codes P2020 and P20E8.
I can reset the codes dealing with the reductant leakage and low pressure, but not the codes dealing with the brake system.
I have had my pickup in to 2 different ford dealers for these issues and they cannot find anything wrong. I did notice that this time when the Check Brake system warning appeared that the pick up started lunging a bit, we lost power to the stereo and the windshield wipers came on. Our fuel mileage has remained the same and the pickup still tows like a beast.
I got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.
4 years ago, I also had a check engine light. I brought the car to a mechanic and he just cleaned the parts and the engine light went away. I was still under warranty then. Below is my original post:
Removing Canister Close Valve and Fuel Filter
Today, I have a P0449 code. Something is clogged again. I am now out of warranty because the Canadian emissions warranty isn't as good as the ones in the US. The gas pump keeps shutting off when I pour gas.
What the most likely culprit is? I may try to replace the part myself if is easy enough.
I driving 2011 Sonata. Check engine light was ON while driving, which are fault P0741, TORQUE CON CLUTH ABNORMAL. The light sometimes ON, and sometime will OFF while driving, is it any problem?
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