Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Buzzing When In Reverse Or Drive After Changing Inhibitor Switch
Mar 27, 2015
So recently I took in the sonata to get the inhibitor switch replaced at the dealership (faulty switch causes loss of the gear indication and the car doesn't move when in gear). After getting the car back, it now buzzes when I put it into reverse or drive. It never did this before. Is this normal after getting the inhibitor switch changed and if it will go back to normal after a while.
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While trying to troubleshoot a suspension noise (knock on potholes and when changing from drive to reverse) I found my outer tie rod end to have alot of play. This is similar on both passenger and driver sides.
Is this normal? I couldn't see any other issues with the other components including the bushings.
Tie rod end noise - YouTube
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4400 miles on it. Over last few days the transmission started to slip. First gear engages fine, but the change to 2nd involves a rev....(with no acceleration) till it finally grabs.
Reverse into my garage up my slight incline of a drive does same. Slip rev....slip rev... No gear noises.
Tried to check fluid level...(that's what it sounded like to me) but sealed system.
Taking it in for warranty check/work.
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I have 2011 Sonata with just over 3500 miles on it. About three weeks ago I was driving down the road going about 45 mph when my sonata jerked like I had hit a pothole. I pulled over and checked it out and saw that I had not hit anything. When I put the car in reverse it jerked, and when I put it in drive the car bucked badly. After that, it had almost no acceleration as if it didn't want to get out of first or second gear. I took it to the dealership and they were able to recreate the problem and called it an "Intermittent Hard Shifting Transmission."
They told me they had to replace the transmission, which they did. After they replaced it they said the car was still hard shifting. So they replaced the transmission again, and again the problem persisted. Yesterday they told me they were ordering a brand new transmission, blaming the problem on the fact that the previous transmissions were re-manufactured.
I'm waiting to hear back after they install this "new" transmission. Maybe the third time's the charm, but this seems ridiculous.
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Model is 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
A month ago I started noticing it was sluggish to shift from P to R/D but i had no issues starting in P mode and the car would drive fine. I thought it might due to cold weather so didn't think of it too much.
Two weeks ago it was really hard to shift the gear from P mode and I nearly got stuck in middle of the road unable to shift from R to D. I applied a lot of force on the shifter and it finally budged into D and car drove with no issues. I parked and did my chores came back and the car would not start at all.I put the car in N and it started and was hard to shift back in D but I drove home without any other issues.
It died again in my drive way but this time the gear was nearly impossible to shift and I thought I almost broke it and the panel was not registering it was in P and the key was stuck in the ignition. After messing around for some time I was able to get it into N and put my hand brake on left the key in the ignition and disconnected the battery.
Today I opened the center console & battery tray these are my findings. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position.
1. The shifter moves freely once the linkage is disconnected by removing the tiny pin.
2. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position. Once I manually adjusted it I was able to start the car.
3. I reconnected the linkage pin, make sure the inhibitor switch was in N position and started the car but it was again nearly impossible to switch to P/R/D
4. My brake lights work fine.
5. I was able to remove the key once I completely disconnected the battery.
What can be the issue here ? Inhibitor switch ? The shifter assembly ? Linkage?
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My wife always chastises me for not coming to a complete stop from backing up before I shift the car into drive. I do not shift when the car is still moving more than 1-2 MPH, in fact it is barely moving when I change gears. My wife insists that I come to a complete stop and wait 1-2 seconds before shifting from reverse to drive. She is convinced that I am doing damage to the transmission the way I shift. I insist that no damage is being done and point out that with over 100,000 miles there have been no transmission problems with the car. Am I damaging the transmission by shifting before I come to a complete stop in reverse?
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My car has an intermittent crackling noise when changing gears from park to reverse, park to drive, and vice versa. It also starts squeaking (coming from the engine) when backing up. The crackling noise almost sounds like sparks.
Having that issue in their generation 2 Prius? I was told by the service adviser that it was the brakes. I think it sounds like a bad issue, although I was told it was completely normal, and maybe they can clean something. Is this pretty commonplace?
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I have a 13 Altima and have been hearing a clunk/pop sound when coming to a stop and sometimes when changing from park to drive and park to reverse. It seems to also be there when accelerating too and the car is also seem to be vibrating when moving at lower speeds. Today i noticed something else. I parked the car and took the key out. I went to the side of the car and slowly rocked it back and forth and started to hear this clunk sound. I have uploaded it to youtube and can be found here [URL].... . After hearing the sound, I decided to take the driver wheel off and noticed it makes the same sound when i move the tires. It seems to be coming from the CV joint, where it connects to the transmission. why would a car make that clunk sound with the car/key off and swayed back and fourth? does this seem like a CV joint issue or something related to the transmission.
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I have been noticing that the ballasts have been making buzzing sounds a lot lately. Is this something normal that is suppose to do? I have the slim ballasts from xenon supply.
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I have an Elantra 2012 sedan GL and last year i tried installing HID's. It worked for a whole but then it stopped after. I learned that it wasn't getting enough power so then yesterday I bought a wiring kit to be able to wire my HID to tap to the battery to get more power. Everything was fine till I got to work but when I had to leave work., there was an issue. Whenever i switch the gear from park to drive or reverse or neutral. My car seems to jerk. And when I'm driving and it changes gears, it also jerks. Kind of the same thing how if your driving a manual car and you change gears wrong. This happens when my lights are off. But when i turn them on it then stops. And when i turn it back of it doesn't do it anymore.
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I have a 2012 Sonata GLS with 3300 miles on it. I have noticed that now that the temperature has dropped to below 60 degrees I have annoying dash rattle. It seems to be based on the rpm of the motor (1200-1500 rpm). So every time I take off from a stop sign or stop light I have this buzzing rattling coming from the center of the dash. It sounds like it is in the upper part behind the radio. The wife drove last night and I put my ear on the passenger side vent by the radio and I could hear the rattle. I am just trying to isolate the problem so when I go to the dealership I can give them some decent information. I thought the problem was the cowling on the bottom of the windshield. In the center of the window it had warped up. They replaced the cowling earlier this week and the problem is still there.
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Need to change the hub and bearing(front) on their 2011 sonata?
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Today I went out to crank my Sonata SE 2.4. Pressing the ignition button only got me a buzzing and no turning of the engine. We've been out of the country for 2 weeks and the car has been in the garage since then. I have a portable battery booster that I attached to the battery and the car started normally. I drove it for around thirty minutes and switched it off in my driveway. Immediately tried to restart and it would not start. Boosted again and headed to Auto Zone to have the battery tested. Battery tested bad so I had it replaced. The car started immediately so I turned it off and tried to restart as a precaution. No go.... boosted again and cranked fine. The new battery tested out good so we decided that maybe the charge could be low or? maybe we just needed to run it some on the interstate.
I now had a cel on. So we get out onto the interstate and drive about two miles and the engine looses power, limp mode ?. Pull to the side of the road and RPM's at only 1500 with the accelerator to the floor. I was afraid to restart the engine that it would possibly not restart and I'd have to be towed.
Luckily, we were about two miles from the Hyundai dealership so we limped there at 20 MPH. The car is at the dealership now being diagnosed.
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When the engine is in gears say 1-3 (doesn't seem to work in neutral or park) when the engine rev's to about 2500 - 3000 RPM there's a metallic vibrating noise that almost sounds like a buzzing/chattering sound. When you reach over 3000, it goes away.
Here's the curve ball - it stops doing this when the engine is really warm. It only seems to do it when cold or it's been sitting a while. So - it's limited to an RPM range between gears 1-3, it goes away when it's warm.
I am inclined to think this is related to engine mounts... And here's why. It seems to only happen when in gear and we know that the engine changes it's pitch/stance when in different gears versus in neutral/park. So I think when it's in gears 1-3, the engine is tilted a bit and something is coming into contact with something (maybe my strut bar) more than it used to due to more slop/movement from my worn out engine mounts. As to why it goes away when the engine is really hot (driven for an hour or so) is because maybe whatever it is that's coming into contact with something else is (perhaps a hose and its clamp?) is much more pliable while warm and clears whatever obstruction it was hitting while cold? (a lot of speculation and creative thinking here).
Anyway - after the engine is super warm and I've been driving it I cannot for the life of me get it to do it... It rev's super smooth and not a hint of any bad sound.... 2011 2.0T Limited ....
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I'm on my third/fourth (lost count) steering column now on my 2011 sonata. This time around when my guy changed the steering column at my body shop the AC stopped working. What may have happened?
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What to do with the ECS light being lit up after changing the steering column? Checked everything and can't figure out why the light is on, it's the light with the car that looks like it's sliding WITHOUT the ''off'' underneath. I'm assuming it just needs to be reset.
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Yesterday while changing the bulbs in my door on my 2011 Sonata to led there was some sort of short and all the door lights, dome lights, clock and temprerure light, key fob stopped working. My tire pressure lights came on and every time I start my car the radio resets. I checked all fuses and all my tires have the right tire pressure.
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I bought a 2009 Sonata V6 this past August. Immediately I had shifting problems. I asked my mechanic and he found the TSB. I took it to Hyundai and they took care of the TSB. The shifting problems stopped, but it is STILL literally JUMPING out of reverse when I'm going into drive. Dealer said they could not reproduce the problem.
I am a Toyota driver, and chose the Sonata based on price. So far, I am not impressed and plan to return to Toyota when this one is paid off. But, in the meantime, I want this car fixed, but the dealer acts like there is nothing wrong. I have warranty for another 25,000 miles....
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Possible to change the setting for the auto mode for the headlight to come on when it gets dark? I've always thought that they don't come on soon enough, particularly in heavy rain or towards sunset when I see many other cars with headlights on.
Couldn't find a section in the manual, but wondered if there was any undocumented tweak I could perform to get the lights to come on sooner so I can leave in in auto mode and not worry about it.
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So I have a 2006 2.4 sonata with a transmission whine only when pressing on the gas in drive or reverse. I just flushed and replaced the fluid and it is at the correct level. What I want to know is since the transmission has in internal filter, is it possible for me to clean it out to get rid of the whining sound?
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Just jumped in my 12 sonata. Put in reverse and car started to sputter pretty bad. Put back in park. Turned off and on again. Let it sit for a minute or 2. Now seems to be running better. Should I be worried about this?I do have a appointment with hyundai Saturday to install a tie rod. Will they be able to tell what it was if it doesn't happen again?
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