Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Brake Pedal Getting Stuck
Nov 15, 2014
So, I have had this weird incident happen a couple times. The first time it happened was probably a month or so after getting the car (2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited). I was parked on our driveway, and it's on an incline. I started it up, but the brake pedal was super hard to push down. Once the car started, everything felt fine, and other than a casual "Huh, that was weird." I didn't really think anything of it. Have been without incident for months.
Then today, it happened twice. Parked in the same spot, started the car fine this time, but I went to turn it around in the driveway and almost took out our shrubs because I went to brake and the pedal was stuck. Pushed down really hard and got the car to stop. Put it in park, and tested the pedal a couple times... everything was fine. Was nervous, but took the car anyways. Happened again in the afternoon. Got out of the store and thought I was going to be stranded in the parking lot because this time the pedal was stuck and at first I couldn't start the car. Luckily, it eased up when I pushed down hard and it started, then all was fine again.
I have done a little looking and saw vacuum booster and master cylinder mentioned for possibilities, though no one's experience that I have seen sounds just like mine, nor did I find any that are Sonata YF specific. I already got my switch recall taken care of, so this is something different. Only 7,000 miles on the car. Gonna bring it in to the dealer this week, but just wanted to crowd source opinions in case they can't replicate the problem. I hate feeling like I can't trust my vehicle... especially when it's almost brand new.
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I have a 2011 4 door and I drive it VERY LITTLE... I have a company truck so the car sits most of the time but when I get in it to drive on the weekends or whatever, sometimes when I hit the brakes it feels like they stick while depressing the pedal. Its nothing unsafe feeling just annoying and it forces me to kinda slam on the brakes. it seems to go away after I drive it a while, I have been attributing it to sitting so much but wanted to double check.
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I tried to turn on my car, and the brake pedal was hard and the car wouldn't start. I did a search on the forums regarding the brake light switch. I tried the 30 second hold the start button, car would not start. Radio/lights works fine so I don't think it's a battery problem. My g/f said she can see all of my brake lights turn on when I try to depress them. I'm kind of a lost. It was working fine earlier this morning.
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I have noticed that anytime i leave the car parked for more than 5 hrs or so, when i get in and put my foot to the brake pedal to start, the pedal feels very hard... as tho someone sat in the car and pressed it several times.... So great force is needed to mash the pedal to start the car... After it starts the pedal gets nice and soft as normal... Is this normal?? Or should i get it checked
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I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
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Have a 13 Sonata Limited 2.0t and for some reason it won't start.
Also brake pedal is extremely stiff. Tried to push start button several times while pressing brake, and dash lights just blink several times.
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My brake pedal is rock hard to press and when I do press it while pushing the push to start, it does not turn on.
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Had this issue with my Kia Optima 2013 pertaining to the brake pedal, now with my 14 Sonata Limited. When in stop and go traffic, parking lot driving, or pulling into the garage that requires a lighter touch on the brake pedal, the pedal has a creaking feel to it, like when closing a creaky door. I can make this happen of course when I push the brake pedal slowly with my hand. This also happens when letting up on the pedal slowly/lightly. Kind of annoying, but the brakes work just fine and dandy
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I have 2011 SE, it won't start at all. The car won't start all thou all electrical are working (radio, NAV, Dashboard) but when trying to press the break pedal is hard as a rock. Dashboard computer at times tells me to press the break pedal - but it wont start, it actually turns off when i press the break and hit the start button. It happen twice before was able to start it within couple minutes.
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A month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
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I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
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My wife was driving the v this morning. While she was backing up in reverse from a parking space slowly , she felt that the brake pedal is stuck (very firm) while controlling the speed. The car then stops. She then switched to D to roll foward a bit and the brake was back to normal. Reverse again and it was fine too.
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Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
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This morning I drove my car to see my dentist. When I parked I engaged the parking brake as I always do out of habit. However this time when I was done at the dentist and got in my car I tried to disengage the parking brake pedal and it wouldn't release. It kept going lower. Now I think its pretty much floored. I had to leave the car in the parking lot as it started to rain heavily. How to release the brake pedal. ? I think it must just be a stuck lever or gear thats preventing the release mechanism from working. Any pics or have dis-assembled a parking brake pedal on the phaeton before.
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In the first instance of this problem, my brake pedal was stuck to the floor. By pumping it a few times, it gradually released and rose to the proper level. Brakes then seemed to work fine for a couple of weeks, until I reversed out of a parking space, but could not brake the car when I shifted into drive. I pushed the brake pedal to the floor, but could not stop until I ran over two large boulders that, stopped the car short of a big tree.
My mechanic doesn't know exactly what went wrong, but is replacing the brake cylinder. I fervently hope that fixes the problem! What could it be?
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I have a strange problem with our 2011 Sonata GLS. For one the key gets stuck in the ignition. When this happens we are usually able to put the car in drive and then back in park, to get the key to come out. I have taken the car to the dealership twice, but they are unable to recreate the problem. They told me that you have to turn the wheel to get the key out. Also, when driving the car this weekend the emergency brake light and abs light came on for an entire 20 mile trip, even though the e brake was not engaged. This is also an intermittent problem. The car has 45k miles and so is still under warranty from Hyundai. However the dealership is unwilling to address the issue. I was told that if I bring the car back again for this issue there will be associated charges to me. I am concerned that the car has some type of electrical issue that is going to strand my wife and baby on the highway. We have only had the car 9 months and would love to put this issue to rest.
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I have a 2011 Sonate GLS and the key has been getting stuck in the ignition off and on for about a year. When it starts it's occasional and slowly gets more consistent with time. There was indeed a recall about 4 months back, in which the garage told me that they think it may work with what was going on, and it seemed to work for a bit until it recently started becoming consistent again.
The car shifts into PARK and the car rocks back and forward slightly and occasionally I will hear a clicking sound as it rocks, however when I don't hear that sound, I can almost guarantee that the key is going to be stuck. It will turn counterclockwise about 1/3 of the way before locking into place. I can start the car again no problem, and have to typically place it in reverse and drive again and shift, rather violently, into PARK again and pray for a click.
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I had something happened the other day that I have never experienced in any of my Prius' before, I was driving along coming up to a stop lite and the lite changed I tried to make a quick stop and stomped on the brake pedal and pedal got real hard and no stopping! car did not even slow down, luckily no cars where sitting at lite.
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96 Aerostar Cargo 6 cyln. Auto.
There is a noise coming from what sounds like the rear passenger side wheel. Also, when you put it in drive and release your foot from the brake the van stays still. You have to push the gas to get it moving, like the brake is holding it. If you are going very slow on a flat surface the van will eventually stop instead of idling forward.
I have removed the wheel, it does turn hard. Pulled the drum (was very hard to remove). Had to move adjuster to remove drum. Cleaned inside, inspected the brake shoes, put drum back on, etc. I am pretty sure that brake is causing resistance. How to resolve it?
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I've been noticing sometimes that when you try to roll up the right rear window, it won't work. It goes down fine, but sometimes, the button won't make it go up. I'm not sure if it's just the rear switch or both the rear and the driver's switch.
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I was auto crossing yesterday with about half a tank and I noticed my fuel gauge read 40miles to empty after one of my runs. I filled it back up to the top and it still reads almost empty. Im out of warranty so Is there something I can check before taking to the dealer?
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