Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: All Warning Lights On Dash Lit Up - RPMs Show 0
Sep 22, 2013
I've got up two weekends in a row to this : 20130922_064713_zpsd7701bd3.jpg
All of the warning lights on my dash are lit up. I cannot put the car in gear due to the drive not showing up. The RPM's show 0, then after a few seconds they bump and start working. After restarting car a few times it finally goes away. Everything but the check engine lights. Anything to try before I put it in the shop tomorrow?
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This morning when I started my Prius 3rd Gen 2011, I noticed three yellow lights being on. These were; something similar to handbrake light, ABS light and then the stability control light. All are in yellow. Checked tire pressure and found that one tire was low and filled it. Also, brake fluid was near the low level and I topped it. The lights are still on. I switched on and off several times but the lights are still on.
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ABS, Brake, Traction warning lights display and chime sounds when car is started in the mornings. These warnings disappear after car is parked for at least half an hour and then re-started.
They will come on then intermittently while going over a small bump, or sounding horn or turning on wipers. It's like the car is haunted.
So far the dealership has replaced a front speed sensor which solved the problem for a couple of weeks. Yesterday I returned it to the dealership with the same problem and they diagnosed it as a poor battery cable ground and declared it fixed. This morning the lights and chime were back on.
The power steering feels loose & less responsive while lights are activated.
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I know I'm not the only one that think the dash illumination lights are too bright! Even when turn turn them all the way down, yes they go down but still too bright. Any mod to make the inside lights dark? I have thought about buying tint and tint the over the speedometer and the clock and radio... Not sure how it would hold since its plastic......
I use my personal car for side work (at night) and need sit in my car and if the car is running and I cut all the lights off, and use the emergency brake to cut the day time running lights off, the dash lights go bright...wtf. I've also thought about removing the fuse for the lights, but I read the same fuse is used for the airbags as well.....
2011 Sonata GLS
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2013 SE 2.4 ... I am away from my car. Should be home Tues afternoon. When I left 7 days ago at 6am, I had no headlights. The light on the dash was on and all the other tail lights worked. Before I had to leave I quickly looked for the headlight fuse(s). Where to find it(them)? I may have to drive home after dark and will need headlights.
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I recently (two weeks ago, actually) bought a one owner clean car fax 2007 Prius with 125k after totaling my 2004 - I got the 04 cheap enough that the payout covered the new one. The car ran perfectly; quiet, no whining or grinding noises, etc. About a week ago, the check engine light came on. The next day, I got in it to drive to school. I get to the middle of my campus and it starts to lag (very similar to the way my 04 did when it needed a new hybrid battery cell). I pull over and turn the car off and back on since that used to be what would get me home in the 04.
Every single warning light came on, including the master one. My "BRAKE" warning light is also on even though the e-brake is not. The car would not show "ready" and would go into park, but if I tried to shift into anything else, it would pop into neutral. (The dash as of now is shown below.) This is not user-error. I have driven a 2nd gen Prius before, I know about pressing the brake down when you start it. The garage I had to get it towed to has no idea what to do with it and each Toyota dealership I called told me that they hadn't heard of before.
I bought a new 12V and the garage said it didn't make a difference, but I'm not entirely convinced they even tried it.
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Had these 2 warning lights show up this morning for no reason. What does it mean? Truck drove fine to work. Guess a trip to the service dept is in the future.
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I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
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2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
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So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
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2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
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2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
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My transmission is having issues switching from 1st to 2nd gear and same issue from 5th to 6th. What happens, (when attempting to switch from 1st to 2nd) RPMs rev up high (as though it is in Neutral) then after 2-3 sec it shifts, car jumps crazy and in like 1 sec it shifts down (to 1st - RPMs jump) then shifts to 2nd gear and from there it is fine. 3rd to 4th, to 5th is great, but 5th to 6th same issue, not as extreme, but similar. If i let go of gas when it should shift to 2nd gear, and wait like 2 sec, it will be in 2nd gear without jerking - Normal.
Sometimes in Park there is this noise as though something metal is hitting another metal part, and I can feel it in car - but it goes away and only happens from time to time. Also Neutral on rare occasion works as Reverse - super rare. I did Stall test (per Hyundai procedure Bulletin 13-AT-007) - no issues. Dealer ran diagnostic - no Codes in transmission. Flushed fluid - didn't work. I drained fluid again, put new fluid in and checked ATF level per 13-AT-006 - no difference. Tested Solenoids - no problem there. What could be an issue with my transmission?? 2012 Sonata GLS 2.4L with 7k miles.
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2011 Sonata GDS. I previously purchased 19" Gen coupe wheels and never had a problem immediately. Approximately 2 months later of driving with the 19" wheels, when I got onto the highway one day, the car did a slight jerk with acceleration and the acceleration halted for a split second. Ever since that day, anytime I accelerate fast and/or reach highway speeds, the car has a delay when I hit the throttle. The car then has a "rattle" "groaning" sound that comes when the RPMs hit around 2000-2500 rpm. It will go away if I drive slow speeds/slow RPMs or shut the car off for a short amount of time. I have taken my car to the Hyundai dealer 3 times. I've had the adaptive values for the transmission and engine reset and that didn't do anything. I had a mechanic ride with me in the car to make sure they were hearing the sound and the delay in shifting and the mechanic was very shocked and had never even heard a sound like this before.
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Have any of you noticed the collision warning popping up on the dash while driving? The first couple of times I missed what was popping up since I was busy driving and not getting into a collision. The last time, however, I did notice. A car was making a right turn up ahead and had almost stopped in the lane..
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I bought a toyota prius 2008 few weeks back. ave done only 2500 km. Today I received few warning lights on the dash of my car.
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This has happened twice now and on the second time I hadn't started the engine and noticed that the lights had not gone out. I switched off and on again and the lights went out.
Only thing in common is the outside temperature was around 4dgs City.
Jumped in this morning, started the engine,* got out to clear the windows of dew, on getting back in I noticed the following lights on the dashboard,
- Traction control light on -stable
- Abs light on -stable
- Glowplug light - flashing
I immediately turned off the engine, waited a couple of seconds, restarted the engine and all the lights extinguished as they should. I then went on my merry way without further incident. Should I be concerned and get it checked or see if it happens again? It has now....
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I was t-boned in my passenger side door & rear quarter panel. After being hit, I tried to stop but nothing happened when I pressed on my brake pedal. It's a 2011 manual transmission Honda CR-Z. I am 100% sure that I was pressing the brake pedal because my left foot was on the clutch - I even looked down to make sure. I did stop after hitting a car that was about 20 yards in front of me after the initial crash.
When I came to a stop all the dash warning lights were on. I had taken it out of gear but it was stalled anyway. I turned it all the way off and about 15 minutes later I restarted the engine. The 'Cruise Main' light was still illuminated on the dash (I hadn't been using the cruise control). I pressed the cruise control button and the light went out. And then tested the brakes and they worked just fine!
Could the battery recharging brakes or the battery location in the rear of the car have anything to do with this? I'm awaiting a report from Honda. The service technician as going to see if the computer has any information to explain the loss of brakes.
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I have a rattle coming from the muffler when I reach 2000-3000 rpms. I thought it may be the heat shied, so I got underneath the car and it was nice a snug. Had my wife get in the driver seat and rev the engine. It seems as though all sound came from the outlet of the muffler. Do I have an internal failure in the muffler? Over the past month it has become louder.
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