Brought my 2011 Sonata SE to dealer today because my Airbag light remained on for days and the passenger airbag light was flashing with no one in seat. I was told after a diagnostic that the "Weight sensor" is faulty in the passenger seat and the entire seat needed to be replaced. I bought this car brand new and never been wrecked. The dealer went back and forth on if my airbags will deploy or not.
View 3 RepliesI am looking to reduce the weight on my rear suspension. I have H&R springs and I rub on bumps. Fenders need to be rolled but the inside of the tire is being rubbed on the strut housing. My subwoofer box doesnt work for my situation either, saw a thread already about this but he was recommended coils. I rather not go that route. Ive already removed the rear seats(foldable part, bench is still there) ...
View 1 RepliesAirbag light came on. Finally got a scan tool that will read it. Comes up with an active code of B1481 (Driver's airbag 2nd stage resistance too high). The scan tool shows 1st stage resistance at 2.6 ohms and 2nd stage at 6.6 ohms. My understanding is that it could be a faulty airbag or clock spring. How to further diagnose the condition?
View 6 RepliesOk .. Airbag warning light is on..... And won't go off i have taken battery off try reset that way nothing. Also steering wheel lights are off...
Only thing working on instruments on steering wheel is the left side is the radio and phone and volume and mode right side of steering wheel not working but nothing is illuminated!!!!???? On wheel
Installed hid and relay kit yesterday...after reconnecting the battery the check engine light came on the dtc that was pulled was p0106 for the MAP sensor... i had it cleared and it keeps coming back... The car still runs fine just seems as if it idling low...
View 8 RepliesHave no Fan on Rad running. Cant seem to locate the temp sensor to test it? What is the location?
View 1 RepliesOil leak.... I can not locate the MAF sensor in my 2012 gls 2.4l sonata. I followed from the front tube intake through the air box to the throttle body and i do not see one. I also have the service manual and no mention of said sensor!
View 14 RepliesTPMS sensor has recently came in and stays on. However i checked all 4 tires and the pressures in them are at the appropriate values. I am assuming this could be related to maybe the system just not "seeing" one of the sensors or something. I heard if you use an OBD2 adapter you can see the values reported and it will show exactly what tire is reporting the problem.
View 13 RepliesLooking for a picture or description where this sensor is located? I assume very close to the crank pulley, but I'm hoping I will not need to remove the crank pulley to gain access to this sensor. I have a 2011 Sonata, 2.4L engine.
View 3 RepliesI had a sensor error which caused my battery to drain. The computer thinks my door is unlocked when it is locked, leaving the door open image on the dashboard. This caused my battery to drain totally. What the damage would be for a new battery and fixing the door sensor ?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2011 Sonata with 30000 miles. It started shifting funny. It would jump when you put it in drive and shift strangely in all gears. Called the dealer to make an appointment, cancelled as I couldn't get off work. In the meantime, car stopped doing this.
After a while, this started again. Stopped by a shop that offered free code check, the code is P0711 Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor. They said your fluid is overheating and we don't know why, we have to take the transmission off to find out the cause.
What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
I have a 96 Cadillac Deville Sedan. Last year, I had problems with the heat and A/C working intermittently. Then both crapped out. I went the summer without A/C...waiting for winter. Have gone all winter with no heat, which is not a huge problem, since I live in Florida. However, I'm planning on taking this car on a 1600 mile journey to Maine. So on Thursday, my bf installed a new HVAC fan motor. Or, yeah, whatever you call them. It worked and the car produced heat. I had a parade to go to Thursday night, so I drove the car there and it was fine. On my way home, the car was revving, like I was driving a lawn mower. Then, while I was still driving at a low speed, the mph went to 0. During the 10 mile drive home, which included interstate, the mph returned and the car acted normal. Then the mph went to 0 again. The speed sensor failure light came on, along with the check engine light.
I thought maybe while replacing the fan motor, the bf might have unhooked the speed sensor. This makes sense to me. But the bf checks and can't find anything obvious.
Today, when I first start driving the car, it again sounds like a lawnmower. The rmp is into the 3000 and 4000 range, while I am driving (approx) 15 mph. If I step on the gas, the car lurches forward, then returns to lawnmower status. The mph is showing 0. The instant mpg is also remaining at 0. The fuel range is showing numbers, but they are not correct, since there are 14 gals of gas in the car and the range is at like 85 miles and declining. I get around 20 mpg. So that's not an accurate range. After a few miles, the car stops over-revving and sounds normal. On the interstate entrance ramp, the mph started working, and worked for several minutes, then reverted back to 0.
So, to summarize. The check engine light is on all the time. The speed sensor failure light comes on in the beginning. The struggling lawnmower act lasts for the first few miles. Lurching if I step on the gas. Then, it might drive normally. The mph stays at 0. Every once in a while, the mph will start working, then stop again. What could have happened during this fan motor repair to have caused this? Or is this just a huge coincidence?
Over the weekend my 2008 Escape Hybrid manifest 2 problems the same day.
1. The remote keyless entry button stopped working (thought it was dead battery in key)
2. Got a error message 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault'
So after suffering with having to actually unlock my car with a key (heehee/see sarcastic grin) and getting irritated by the error message. I asked the internet about my symptoms. Got the standard answers of "bad tire pressure sensor/reprogram" and change the battery in the key. But ONE and only one person (namely Enviroguy ) said what I thought was going on - that these two problems were related. (afterall it is 2 wireless devices in the car.)
Changing the key fob battery had no effect & Both keys were unresponsive. Seeing what Enviroguy said about certain chargers or wireless devices can cause interference in the tire sensor and keyless systems. .... Then I remember that I had been using a new no-name charger for my cell phone when this problem started.
I unplugged that charger.....(it was a cheap generic power point to USB adapter). The Keyless system is working... ! The tire pressure error has vanished.... !
I did not go to the car appointment.... Now let's hope this was in fact the problem! May my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid "Be Healed!"
This is what I get from the DTC .....
DTC P0705
Description : transmission range sensor circuit malfunction
State : History
I have done some google search on the above diagnostic trouble code P0705 and as i understood , it indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
Since the check engine light illuminated two times (two separate occasion) then it turns off now; the ECM is actually receiving input signal from the TRS.
So that leads me to think that the TRS is actually working but the problem might be one of the following two:
1- Open or short in the TRS circuit?
2- Dirty transmission fluid.
What do you think the steps i should do first of all ? how would i check the transmission fluid since my vehicle has no transmission fluid dipstick. My driving condition would fall into "severe" category and it reached 60,000 miles now ...
I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
I just had my oil changed today and while driving home the red airbag light came on in the instrument cluster and the passenger airbag light on the dash started flashing. When I connected the passenger seatbelt the flashing light went off. While in the dealer also tightened some screws in the center console. I have an under the seat subwoofer that is VERY snug...could that have damaged something when the seat was slid back?
View 10 RepliesI'm in a bit of a bind. I was very low on gas drove my car on fumes (mistake, yes) back to my place. Today, it will not start. I dumped 3/4 of a gallon into the tank, and still no start.
The ignition will try, fail to engage the engine, and then emit rapid clicks as the interior light flashes. The battery works, as all the cabin lights turn on.
I really don't want to the fuel pump to be broken, so I'm trying to eliminate possibilities before that. Is there something wrong with the ignition, perhaps? What is the clicking after the attempted "heaves" of the ignition switch?
I have a 2011 Corolla S with 58k miles and 3 of 4 doors locks are intermittently starting to fail. I have seen videos on YouTube of the OEM actuators being rebuilt with the motor being replaced. I am hoping to avoid having to pay $200+ for each of the locksets.
I can find multiple motors that "fit", but they all have different size motors and shaft sizes. What are the specs on the replacement motor? I have done a search on the Toyota nation app and cannot find any posts on this.
The part I found is Machi brand, model # FC-280PC-22125.
So over the past few weeks I've grown accustom to my airbag warning sensor and light on, a lot.
First time two weeks ago - Airbag light came on, brought it in...Repaired wiring harness reset light. Light comes on next day, make an appt.
Second time today, brought it in...Just picked it up, fired up the Treg airbag light comes right back on. I was told another harness was repaired and something about a side airbag firing something...
So my third time is in the next week or two... fab. They say the whole harness is to be replaced, which is cool. I respect my service team, the engineers as well... I'm going with the flo, I'm pretty laid back.
My questions is...How long do I need to go with the flow if this keeps happening? All the while this is going on, for every issue I have that's super legit airbag, stepper, running gear. They keep giving me the hook up on, new wood trim, new headlight switch, new mirror switch, new buttons on my center console, new buttons on the nav....
Looking for a PDF or link to some airbag sensor mapping for 04 treg v6? Specifically Front End Sensor system.
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