Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2014 - AC Turn On To Full Capacity And Wait Several Minutes For Cool Air
Jun 20, 2014
My 2014 Sonata GLS has definite air conditioner problems. It takes some time for it to get cold. I had no problems with my 2011 Elantra - I never had to turn the air conditioner to its highest level. In addition, it cooled almost immediately. However, I have to turn on the Sonata's air conditioner to full capacity and wait several minutes before I get some cool air. When it's 95 degrees out here in Florida, a few minutes can seem like a long time.
Haven't had my car checked yet.
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I have a 1996 Lumina 3.1. For the last few years, every now and then I would turn on the key, all electrical systems, lights, windows, radio, etc. would work but it wouldn't turn over. If I waited about 4 minutes it would start perfectly and it wouldn't happen again for up to a month. Last week it did it and after I waited and tried it again it turned over once then everything went dead. A mechanic (friend) installed a new battery and it started. He took it to his shop and installed a new computer. Everything read fine, but now when you turn on the key it will turn over fine but not start. Leave the key on and wait about 2 minutes till you hear the fuel pump start and the engine will start fine. If you stop for a few minutes it will start but if you stop for more than 5 or 10 minutes you have to wait for the fuel pump to come on again.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8 and 135,000 miles. Whenever it is hot out and the engine has been running it is hard to shift either from park or back into park. Today it completely froze on me and I had to wait for it to cool down before it would shift into park. Temp out is about 80 today.
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and have issues where my A/C won't cool properly and gives off a funky smell when I'm at a stop. Then it continues cooling when I drive at speeds.
I am going to the dealership for a steering clicking noise as well and was wondering is it worth telling them this problem too or should I go to an independent shop? My car is at 99,000 miles and I know A/C isn't part of powertrain.
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I drive a 1996 F-150, 188,000+ miles. Sometimes when you turn the key in the ignition, nothing happens. Absolutely nothing. But if you wait about 2 minutes, the truck starts O.K. This has occurred a couple of times when I was starting out and killed the motor by not giving it enough gas. But it's also occurred when the truck has been sitting for a number of hours or even overnight. It never fails to start after about a 2 minute wait. What's going on here? I've had the truck in the garage, but they couldn't replicate the problem and didn't do anything.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
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Why the battery never charges to full capacity in the battery level indicator on the LCD screen? It never goes over 6 bars out of the 8 bars so it only gets to be 3/4 full.
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I have a 2010 ford edge. The last two times I tried to fill the gas tank, the nozzle on the pump shuts off as if the tank is full. The tank has not reached it's capacity. I have to "dribble" the gas into the tank, and even then it seems to be backing up the pipe. A simple two-minute fill takes ten minutes.
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Just bought my new ride last week and already noticed strange clunk sound when braking. It doesn't happen all the time but seems to happen when I make full stop, like at a stop sign or stop before turning.
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I have an issue with the transmission not allowing me to shift from Park if I drive for couples of minutes unless I re-start the car. Also, if I drive for couples of minutes while I'm putting the cruise control on Standby mode or ON, it will shut off by itself along with the light for the economy driving mode.And again if I re-start the car everything will work.
This video will show you what I'm talking about : [URL] ....
My car is GLS 2011 and has 85,000 miles.
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Just like the tittle says. My 2011 ISF with 56k miles on it is making a Clunking noise when pulling out of a parking spot or just anytime I fully steer to the left side and begin to move. If I try it in reverse it doesn't matter if I turn the steering wheel fully to left or right it makes the same noise as I begin to move at slow speed. It almost feels like something is pushing the front wheels out. During normal driving I don't feel anything at all, just as steady as solid the car can be.
Is there any common issues with ISF with premature wear of ball joints, cv joint, sway bar bushings or hub bearing?
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OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
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Problems started a few months back. Turned the a/c on and it blew hot air. I didn't think much of it because it started to turn cold after a few minutes. That didn't occur again for a few weeks so I figured it was a fluke.
Over the last few days it now takes 6 -7 minutes for the air to finally cool down. It is way too hot these days to not have instant relief in my car. Luckily it is time for service so I will let the shop worry about what is wrong with it.
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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I have a 2010 F-150 which has a problem that the dealer cannot figure out. When I leave the heater/air on when I shut the truck off upon restart the heater/air is off. The heater/air will turn on if I restart the truck within a few minutes but if it is left for say 15mins it seems the truck forgets where the heater switch was upon shut down. This causes a huge problem for my remote starter as the selection I need does not come on after leaving the vehicle for a time.
The codes for the truck are OK according to the dealer.
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When I first get into my car, the AC works and the fan will move the air. However, after 20-30 min., the air is no longer cooling and I can barely feel the fan blowing the air and I have touched neither the thermostat control nor the fan. The AC will not put out cool/cold air with the fan at the same position until after the car has been turned off for at least 10 min.
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Two weeks ago A/C was slow to cool down on and blowing warm air for several minutes; works fine since then. One week ago, check engine light came on. At the dealership now, they say it the check engine light is for the clutch heater and this would also relate to problem with a/c not cooling properly. Waiting to hear what repairs will cost. Is this OK to continue driving? What exactly is going on? Does this part need to be replaced? Should we just tape over the icon on the instrument panel to avoid looking at the pesky light?
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What the max tongue weight is for a 2012 4x4 screw with the EB and max tow pkg. I talked to the dealer and all he could tell me was the bumper weight. I am buying a trailer that has a tongue weight of approx 950 lbs and want to ensure that it won't have any problems. Which brings me to my next question, with the max tow I think it has sway control, but since I will be towing around 8500 lbs do I need more than that and if so, what?
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I have observed if I turn my seat's cooler on, it will cool "slightly" for few minutes (~15min) but then it will heat to a point as if I am turning the heating mode not the cooling mode.. Or is there a right way to use this feature such as I must turn it on minutes before I sit ..
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So the car is a 2014 hyundai hybrid limited I had all the door panels off cause i was upgrading all 4 door speakers putting everything back to gather and a few days later I went to roll the rear window down and neither one works the front to works but both back will not go down or the heated seats in the back wont work. I check all connections and the fuses and they all seem fine what else can be the problem....
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