I've recently noticed that my 2013 hyundai sonata would start vibrating/shaking, if I were to release my brakes slowly (It doesn't shake if I release it fast). I was wondering if there are any problems with that?
I do not feel any vibration in the car when I press /slam the brake. The only time I feel the car shaking is when I would slowly release the brake.
When driving my 2013 Sonata with the rear windows open the deck below the back window starts vibrating horribly. You can actually see it moving up and down. If I also have the stereo on the vibrations distort the sound something awful. Close the window and the vibration goes away. Is it a defect, and is there a quick fix? Only problem with the car so far.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesHad this issue with my Kia Optima 2013 pertaining to the brake pedal, now with my 14 Sonata Limited. When in stop and go traffic, parking lot driving, or pulling into the garage that requires a lighter touch on the brake pedal, the pedal has a creaking feel to it, like when closing a creaky door. I can make this happen of course when I push the brake pedal slowly with my hand. This also happens when letting up on the pedal slowly/lightly. Kind of annoying, but the brakes work just fine and dandy
View 3 RepliesI literally bought my Santa Fe 8 days ago, it has 207 miles on it as it sits in my driveway. The back seat has some sort of squeak noise. I just paid 41k for this vehicle and I really like it. But there is no way this thing should already be shaking and vibrating things to the point they are squeaking and coming loose.
View 11 RepliesCar has a weird shaking or vibrating coming from the middle or the rear of the car, I can't really describe it. You can only notice it at low speeds, and it's only noticeable after you drive for a while, it doesn't happen immediately. It happens whether you press on the brake or not, just while driving. I'm not sure how I should handle the situation either. I changed my rotors and brake pads because I thought that might have been the problem, but it turned out it wasn't.
I took it to the dealer, they said it was the end links that were loose so they changed that. It didn't fix the problem. I took the car back, and they checked it out, they couldn't locate the problem. They put it on the lift, said it wasn't the sway bar, suspension, etc.
They said because I didn't change the "brake pad clips"(I'm not sure what to call them), and they appear to be the original ones that came with the car, I'm not really sure if they are or not, but I know the brake pads were changed once, but maybe that wasn't changed, I need to change them first, and since they looked for a problem and don't want to waste more of their time (basically what they told me, they will start charging me to find the problem now), they will charge me $159 labor + $20 for the part + tax to change it. Now it may or may not fix the problem, that may not be the problem at all, and if it doesn't fix it then I'm out almost $200 for no reason. They said they don't want to waste time, and it's ridiculous to look for a problem with my car. But the problem is it's a vibration or a shaking, and I would think that SHOULD be covered by the warranty.
Should I try taking this to a different dealer, and pretty much never go back there again? Get the part changed myself at a different mechanic shop, as I don't see a reason to spend $179 + tax at Hyundai.
87k miles with no problems ever. I was driving on the highway last night and next thing you know I lost the engine/power and all the dash lights came on so I pulled over and after the dash lights stopped kind of flickering I could not start the car back up. I tried all the tricks I read about...holding the start button in for 30 seconds, rocking the car to loosen brakes, etc and still car wont start. I have a new battery and car was just serviced last week. Oil is good. Radio and all electronics work fine. Brake light comes on when depressed but its stiff. I tried a code reader on it and its generating zero codes.
View 3 RepliesSo a noise has come up in my Sonata. Sounds like it's behind the dash. Only happens when the car is idling in drive and the AC is on. With the slightest increase in rpm, it goes away. Doesn't happen in N or P. Sometimes goes away, but also sometimes gets louder than what I recorded below. I've only checked the dash and glove box so far. [URL] ......
View 5 RepliesThis morning I noticed my Trunk release button by the steering wheel, and the release button on my key fob won't work. Using the key manually does open my trunk though.
I checked, and it is not in the locked valet mode. I do hear a slight "click" when I push either button so it's trying to pop the trunk but no activity.
What this may be? Didn't know if it might be an electrical issue and if there was a fuse to check? Or if maybe it's a mechanical problem and i'll have to get it looked at.
I got my 2011 Tiguan today but the manual is being shipped up so I don't have it yet. I got it home (I love it), and I stopped at my mailbox and engaged the parking brake. I had engaged it before and only had to let up the clutch and it would disengage. This time it stalled. I started it again. Pushed the parking brake button down. It would not release. Pulled it up. It would not release. Simultaneously pulled it up and put my foot on the brake, and it released. I know it's gotta be easier than this, but I don't know the trick yet I guess.
View 11 RepliesWhen I press trunk release button on dash or the trunk button on key, I hear the mechanism but trunk will not pop open. I press the button and pull up on the trunk, it is still latched. The key will not go all the way in lock on trunk, I assume it is seized.
I have sprayed 3 in1 penetrate in lock mechanism. Key still will not go in far. I cannot get back seat down. I am wondering if something got caught in latch that is restricting movement.
2012 sonata gls 84,000 km.
I have had my new Santa Fe Elite for three weeks. On three occasions I have found the Electronic Park Brake does not immediately release as it should on takeoff. Why it stays on some times? My vehicle is Right Hand Drive.
View 4 RepliesIs it all the lexus rx350 had that noise? From the day I noticed hissing noise when I gentally press the brake pedal down and release it . And same noise can be heard when drive slowly and release gas pedal.
View 10 RepliesSometimes mine shifts nice and quick, but sometimes it also shifts soft and slowly with a slight "flare" between shifts. Seems like it shifts better the harder I drive it, but I try not to drive like that. Dealer says everything seems normal to them. Maybe it's the adaptive transmission?
View 32 RepliesI have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
Today my car made a pretty loud thump when I put it in reverse and slowly let go of the brake. I haven't driven the car in 2 weeks. Afterwards, every time I brake there is a soft thumping sound that I can feel through the steering wheel, and the sound slows down with the speed of the car. I think I can also hear a very slight grinding noise while driving slowly in a quiet area.
I read in this forum to use the parking brake in an empty lot to see if its coming from the back tires. My question is, what was that loud thump in the beginning? Also, is it safe to drive to the mechanic (or can I fix it myself..)?
Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
This is a intermittent issue. While either parked but mostly at stop lights I'll notice the engine shudder and shake very hard. It's done it about a handful of times and sometimes the AC is on and sometimes it isn't.
I have a 2011 SE ...
A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
Having problem when driving on the highway? Today I noticed the side view mirror glass shakes and moves quite a bit, while the passenger mirror appears to be rock solid. Any easy fix? I have 15k on the car - would this be something covered by warranty? 2013
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