Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2013 - Remote Start Won't Work
Jan 10, 2017
I bought my 2013 Sonata GLS back in October w/ 15k miles on it. For Christmas, I got an OEM Hyundai remote start (part # 3S056-ADU02). I took it to a local parts shop to get it installed. Turns out, I needed the jumper harness so I ordered that and they installed it today.
Now for the bad part - everything is installed, and the remote works fine. However, when I go to start the car, it stays started for 2 seconds, beeps, and cuts off and tries several times before giving up. The audio shop said to take it to the dealer to get it programmed, but I took it there and they said it would be $150 to program it. BUT they don't know if that's the problem or not. I've went through the forums and I see nothing about programming. I have found posts with problems similar to mine, but I can't find an answer. Why would it need programmed if everything else on the remote works? How can I make it stay started?
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2013 Sonata Limited. I requested that a remote starter be added to a vehicle with keyless ignition. They mentioned that it can't be done, as I would need an extra keyfob that would sit inside the car at all times, and that if I leave the car unlocked, anyone could get in, start it, and drive off with it. That seemed ridiculous to me, so I called another dealer to ask and got essentially the same answer, saying it was not available yet for keyless ignitions.
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Remote App will not turn engine off, just start it. How Dumb is this to design car to remote start but Not Remote Turn Off???
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For 2015 we had the ability to use our key fob to start our cars. I did this nearly everyday, doing the 1 press pause 2 press pause 3 press and hold.. this used to work, suddenly it no longer works.
Since this featured was not even featured in our manuals, I doubt I'd find a solution there. Did Lexus zap my car and ability to start it, remote app from phone works fine.
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I've had my Sonata for six days, and I love it... Except... The cruise control doesn't work. At all. Never did. I tried pulling up on the brake pedal like another poster had suggested, but that didn't do a thing. Looks like a trip to the dealership is in order...
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I installed a factory remote start system on my 2011 sonata. the car will start run for a few seconds then shut off and the start sequence begins again this happens over and over until I unlock the door and add pressure to the brake pedal.
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2011 SD 6.7 with factory remote start will start normally when the temperatures are above 20F or the vehicle is warmed up. If the temperature is near or below O F and the vehicle is cold soaked for 12 hours the remote start fails to work. Push the lock button and the lights flash, push remote start twice and the lights flash once and nothing happens. Subsequently can manually start vehicle with key without any delay or problems. Once vehicle is warmed up can remote start normally. Only recently have the temps been low enough in the area to experience this problem which has repeated 3 times. Unable to find any troubleshooting in the service manual for this.
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87k miles with no problems ever. I was driving on the highway last night and next thing you know I lost the engine/power and all the dash lights came on so I pulled over and after the dash lights stopped kind of flickering I could not start the car back up. I tried all the tricks I read about...holding the start button in for 30 seconds, rocking the car to loosen brakes, etc and still car wont start. I have a new battery and car was just serviced last week. Oil is good. Radio and all electronics work fine. Brake light comes on when depressed but its stiff. I tried a code reader on it and its generating zero codes.
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I have a 2013 Sonata Limited with an odd problem. Once every 10 starts or so, I depress the start button and the car starts up but only after a few seconds' delay. I don't hear anything during those few seconds, no cranking, clicking, or other noises. Normally, the engine turns over immediately, but every now and then, there's that odd delay.
When I get into the car, the photo of the car and the word "Sonata" do show up on the center of the dashboard, so the car seems to be detecting the key OK (and I already changed the batteries in the smart keys). This delay in turning over seems not to be related to the coldness of the car (it has happened both when the car hasn't been used for a few days and when the car was used maybe 15 minutes ago). I should add that this does NOT seem to be the brake sensor issue that I had with the 2011 Sonata SE that I leased previously, as the ESC light isn't coming on.
The car is on its original battery, so I'm wondering if this indicates that the battery is weakening. Also, the car has been in a garage where there is construction work occurring with a fair amount of dust.
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I got the 2013 sonata gls, 5700 kms.
I live in southern Ontario, in Canada and the weather is starting to drop here in the mornings and nights.
The mornings are not 0-3 degrees Celsius and at night a little bit colder.
I have notice that when I start my car in the morning it seems like the engine takes a little big longer to start. It takes no longer than 2 seconds to actually start, it just sounds like its struggling a bit more.
I notice once i drive the car for a bit, park and then start the car again it seems like it fires up quicker and without ease.
Is this due to the drop in weather? or something else at play here.
Also it seems like in the mornings when the car has been sitting for like 9 hours, after it starts the engine sounds louder than usual.
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I just got the Hyundai Sonata SE 2013 and it's great so far. I have a question about the recycled air button. It seems to be controlled by the internal computer for different scenarios.
My issue is that when I have the air turned on and let's so that I turn it off (set to 0) the recycled air mode disables and I start smelling the outside air coming in. So I have to manually push the button to enable recycle air to close the outside vents.
Also, when I turn off the car and later start it back up again recycled air is disabled again! How can I get the mode to stay on recycled air (or the mode it was previously on) when I start the car!?
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I was attempting to change my trunk light to LED but when I finally finished it didn't work! I tried to re-open the trunk with my remote and that didn't work. I had to start the engine and open the trunk using the switch on the door.
When I started the car I saw the clock was not working as was the dome light.
I probably should have unhitched the (-) battery cable, but was too lazy.
I started going through the fusebox under the hood and now I'm going through the fusebox just inside the door.
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We lost one of the cars remotes, I found online few sellers that sell remote (exact as well as cheaper simpler ones). Is there a way to program it at home without the paid support of the dealer ....
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2011 all was fine until a couple days ago when I lock the doors using the remote I hear it click then in 20 minutes later the lights are blinking on and off. I use the remote to lock the doors again and the same thing happens. I replaced the battery in the remote , I also had the battery in the car checked. What could be triggering the lights to keep blinking ?
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Ok on Sunday I washed my car, dried it including opening the hood and trunk as I normally do. On Monday morning I pushed my remote twice like normal and started to walk away but then i noticed I heard no horn. So I hit the lock button again twice in a row this time looking at the car and this time I noticed that the lights didn't flash either, however I could hear the locks lock. Just to make sure I tried to open the doors and they were locked.
So today I got out the manual and looked in section 4/12 - 4/18. It says that one lock button pressed lights flash, within 4 seconds hit again and lights flash and horn will honk once. I never saw anything about deactivation of this feature... So Just to make sure i went around and opened all doors, trunk and hood, then closed them all. I tried again to arm the alarm, hit the lock button twice and again no horn honk or flashing lights. So I finally opened up the hood and wanted to see if the hood pressure switch was maybe out of alignment. looked fine then i held it down and pressed the lock button on the remote, and BAM the lights flashed, pressed it again and lights flashed and horn honked once. Held it down for about 20-25 seconds till i saw the alarm light start flashing released it and the alarm set off. Next I closed the hood tried again, but once again the lights didn't flash and no horn....
Started looking at the top of the hood where the pressure switch would touch touch when closed, and noticed that it looks like maybe I am missing a rubber stopper on the hood that presses the switch, maybe when i was drying under the hood I knocked it off? Or maybe my pressure switch needs to be adjusted?
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Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here?
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I have a 2007 Limited and the remote start function does not want to work. I press the correct sequence on the key fob and I hear a click but no "starter" activity.
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I have my 2011 and all of a sudden my car stopped being able to sense it in the car or outside the car. The lock and unlock function still works which is puzzling, and when I tapped it to the power button in effort to start the car, the car still does not start and says it can't locate the key. I dropped a 85lb weight on it the other week at the gym but it appears there wasn't any damage when I took the key apart, and it was working fine up till now. The spare works fine, but I'm just hoping I don't have to buy another key...
Also noticed this is the same part number, and since i only need the new circuit board I'm assuming, I wonder if its the same size as the prius one...
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3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2014 Prius model 4 and had a remote starter installed at the dealer. So far, the car has been at the dealer 3 times and they cannot figure out why the remote start will not work. When you press the lock button twice then the 3rd time for 3 seconds, the lights flash and you can watch as the dash lights begin to come on, then everything shuts down. The dealer contacted Toyota because this is all a warranty issue and was instructed to reprogram the computer which they did. After doing so they received an error code that a door, hood or trunk was open, but none were. They checked all the door, hood and trunk latch electronics and all were fine. Personally, I feel I must have received a faulty remote starter, but Toyota so far seems unwilling to replace it.
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We have a 2012 Ford Flex with remote start. Remote start doesn't seem to work when car is on an incline. Backed car into driveway and started but won't when pulled in. Is this common Remote start is separate key fob.Remote start is factory.
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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