Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2013 - Error Codes P0442 And P0456 Came Up
Nov 30, 2016
This last May I gave myself a graduation present and got a 2013 Sonata SE. I bought it through my Dad's friend's dealership at a pretty good deal and loved the car for the first few months, then things went South pretty quickly.
I've had more CEL issues with this car than I ever did with my piece of garbage 2000 Grand Cherokee.
The first time the light came on, I brought it to AutoZone who said I needed a new Cannister Close Valve. I then took it to my local Hyundai Dealership (Not my dad's friend's, I recently moved up to Ohio and that dealership was in Alabama) who verified that it was indeed the cannister close valve. They said I didn't need to get it fixed because it actually had nothing to do with the engine, but they gave me the part number should I want to buy it and switch it myself to save a few bucks. I bought the part from them and drove down to visit my family in the summer with the CEL on (who are in Memphis) to have my family's mechanic switch out the part. On my way down I stopped to get gas and, unfortunately for me, the gas hose kept clicking off like the tank was full after a quarter of a gallon, which obviously wasn't right. I brought it to my Memphis Mechanic and had them switch out the part, which they also said would resolve my fueling issue. They said everything was good, but on my short drive home (less than 10 miles from the mechanic) the light came back on. I turned around and my mechanic said he'd look at it. They then told me that I needed to replace a sensor in the EVAP system and that should solve the issue. For the rest of my time in Memphis, and on the drive back up to Ohio, I had no CEL, but I still had the fueling issue, but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. Once I was back in Cincinnati, however, sure enough, that stupid orangish-yellow light appeared back on my dashboard. I took it back to the Hyundai dealership who then wanted to charge me $500 to switch out the charcoal cannister which they were saying was the problem. To my great aggravation, they were unable to tell me that would solve my issue, but that it "should" fix it.
Well, yesterday the CEL popped right back on giving the same codes it's always been giving: P0442 and P0456.
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I hope its just a gas cap issue. I just purchased one online (should arrive next week). I also tried to add Dielectric Grease to the rubber seal on the gas cap to soften it up a bit but to no avail. I hooked up my OBDII code reader to get the codes and it would only read with the car fully turned on and not with just the ACC like other cars without the smart key push button. Is that the right procedure?
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The check engine light on my sons 03 celica is on. Went to autozone and they got the codes for me. They are P0420, P0442, P0446, P0456. I realize that I should probably have an OBD11 reader. What steps do I take to fix this?
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My wife has a 09 Santa Fe and we were getting code p0464 fuel sensor circuit intermittent. I changed both parts that need replacing. After about 20 miles now code p0442 small evap leak detected. I can only assume that it is coming from the fuel sensors that were replaced. Is there anything that I could have screwed up on?
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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Wife's car had a check engine light this morning, code is PO456, small evap leak, I took gas cap off cleaned the filler neck and solenoid the gas cap seal, and reset the light. I filled her car up on Sunday (2011 Sonata 2.4 80000 miles). Where to go next if light comes back on? Purge valve ?
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I recently got a problem with my 2006 LX V6 with 65k mils on it. The car had a few times a rough Idle so I hooked up my OBDII scammer ant got two failure codes:
P0300 miss fire
P0276 problem with Injector #6
Which one is the cylinder #6. I took of the engine cover and checked the connectors to the valves in the front row. I assume cylinder number 6 is in the back row and hard to get access.
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I've been getting P0442, P0442P and P0456P on my 2005 Camry 4 cylinder standard since about December 2011. For some odd reason, lately P0456P stopped when scanning when the CEL comes on again after erasing the code.
There's no symptoms of any problem so I think it's likely to be some small leak in the evap. Looking at my gas cap, it's a little dirty, but I don't see any cracks or damage, and I always make sure to fasten it on tight.
I have emission test coming up soon. (Actually this happened for 1st time like about 4 years ago when the car was under warranty. The dealer simply said that I didn't fasten on the fuel cap right, and erased the codes and sent me home. After about 4 years, same codes now that the warranty has expired....)
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
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Check engine light came ON yesterday and I got a diagnosis at Autozone. These are the codes that came up.
P0456 - EVAP Emission System Leak (very small)
P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Range/Performance Bank
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2006 Kia Rio LX with 78K miles,
I recently performed several repairs in the car including replacement of the timing belt, all other drive belts (power steering, air conditioning, alternator).
Recently, the car has developed a new problem where it intermittently has been difficult to start, but only after filling up the gas tank. The engine cranks over okay but it seems like it might have vapor lock. It seems to occur every time we fill it up. Rarely, the car has appeared to run rough for a few seconds, the electronic control module seems to make an adjustment and then it runs better. The gas mileage has decreased from typical 28-32 miles a gallon down to 23-25 miles per gallon, despite getting new tires for the car.
Additionally, the check engine light has come on intermittently…once reset it stays off for up to two weeks then will come back intermittently with the following codes:
P0456 which indicates a problem with the fuel evaporation system, which may be related to the gas cap (sometimes when this comes on, the gas cap appears to be loose, but other times it appears to be tight).
P0300 which indicates in engine misfireP0301 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #1P0302 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #2The first time that I received this warning, I replaced the 4 spark plugs and the check engine light did not come back on for a couple weeks.
I have also previously received a code for faulty oxygen sensor temperature regulation for the forward most oxygen sensor. From what I have read, this may be related to oxygen sensors were related to an exhaust or intake leak. I have attempted to carefully inspect the intake and exhaust systems and I don't find evidence of leak. (From what I have read, a lean fuel condition which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open are possible causes.
I have visually inspected the 4 coils/plug wire units and they all appear to be intact and since the engine does not run rough (it idles smoothly, seems to have normal power etc.), I believe that they're all functioning.Any thoughts about what should be my next step to diagnose and to fix this problem?Replace gas cap?Replace oxygen sensors?EGR valve?Could this be related to the timing belt replacement (CEL did come on prior to the repair but gas mileage and problem starting after fill-up has started after the change)? Carbon canister or solenoid valve for evap emissions needs replacement?(I have never been in the habit of "topping off the tank").
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Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
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I had a sensor error which caused my battery to drain. The computer thinks my door is unlocked when it is locked, leaving the door open image on the dashboard. This caused my battery to drain totally. What the damage would be for a new battery and fixing the door sensor ?
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So, my 2003 F150 4.6 that I just put back on the road after a four month break is running like crap. I took it off the road for the winter because it was missing (no codes) and didn't feel like dealing with it then but after running it for a day the CEL comes on. It shows the following:
P0304 - hoping it is a coil pack
P0456 - pending. Gas cap?
P0171 - pending. One bank too lean?
Does the 171 code possibly have to do with the misfire in Cylinder 4? I know it is impossible to tell yet but am hoping there is a potential connection.
Before I parked it in January, it was running a bit rough and stumbled on acceleration but never would show a code. Now all this. Going to change the coil first, tighten the gas cap, check for leaks and see what happens but is there anything common on these trucks that I should also be looking at?
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Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
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What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
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My 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
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I have a 2010 Sanata with 69500 miles. I have been getting a P0456 code for some time. I have replaced the gas cap, purge valve and the close vent valve and filter. The code still wont fully erase and keeps tripping the MIL. I have done a smoke test and there are no visible signs of leaking anywhere. What this could be.
One question I have in live data the purge valve never seems to go below 2.7 percent even when the engine is off. it was like that be for and after replacing it.
Could this all be caused by a bad ECU? I was told that in a 2010 Sanata that the ECU is common to fail. When the MIL is on I have 3 of the same code one freeze frame one that triggers the light and one that says permanent. Every time I erase the codes all but the permanent go away. No matter how many times I hit erase or even disconnect the battery it will not go away but the light shuts off.
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13 Sonata alarm keeps going off, press once to arm it. Goes off randomly few minutes latet get told all the time alarms going off.
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Message popped up on my dash board just now. What tire pressure do the Kumho's which came with it take?
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