Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 - Erratic Fuel Level Indication
Nov 17, 2016
My 2012 Sonata has the erratic fuel level indication. I've read enough posts here to pretty much assume I need to replace the sending unit.
I could go with OEM, but it seems this has plagued Hyundais for many years and across many models.
While I have the (fuel pump, filter & sender) assembly out (of the tank), when (miles) is it recommended to replace the fuel filter?
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I was auto crossing yesterday with about half a tank and I noticed my fuel gauge read 40miles to empty after one of my runs. I filled it back up to the top and it still reads almost empty. Im out of warranty so Is there something I can check before taking to the dealer?
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I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
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Where its located? Can't seem to pull...
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited. I have issues with the gas gauge. At times when I start the car I can literally watch the fuel level go all the way down to Empty and the low fuel light will go on. I can leave the car running for a few mins then it will go back up. I can also be driving and the gauge will go up and down. I have gotten to the point where I just reset the trip counter and monitor the miles that way.
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I was wondering if there is a dipstick for checking the automatic transaxle fluid. I have searched my car and the owner's manual but have yet to find anything that addresses the auto transaxle. If I have managed to overlook it just give me a page number in the manual.
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OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
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I've recently purchased an off-lease 2007 Sonata and have the following question about the keyless entry. When I unlock the doors I notice that there is a short flashing of parking lights, however when locking the doors with the remote there is no indication.
I believe the manual says there ought be a short chirping which I am not hearing. The remote is just for keyless entry (no alarm is present). While this may be related, I find the horn sound is not very robust (actually quite puny). Is this normal for this car?
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This morning the Fuel Door can't open, after I tried 7-8 times it opened. So I drove the the dealer, but after I arrive there it can open with each push. The car did that fuel door TSB last month.
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I was one of the many lucky ones to have my engine stall on me, and just had the replacement put in back in April. Drove the car from San Diego to Phoenix, and everything was fine.
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed some gas vapor fumes coming into the car usually during the initial start up, and then the smell would go away.
I read some old threads from 2011 about the pcv hose causing this issue for many owners, so I replaced both the valve and the hose. This hasn't solved the issue, and when i run the vehicle and inspect under the hood, the fume smell is still coming from that vicinity.
Is there some other valve nearby that i should inspect or replace?
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The first time I replaced a battery. It has run flawlessly until now. (Approx 57,000 miles) It is equipped with a push button start. FOB works fine to unlock doors, etc. I depressed the brake pedal and pushed the start button. Instrument panel lit up as normal, but there was no cranking. Nav comes on. Everything "looks" fine, but there is no engine activity.
I tried: I read a post where the person "rocked" the car back and forth several times and it ultimately started. Simple and immediate enough to try. No luck. A jump start. It didn't. Held start button for 30 seconds then attempted to start. No go. Did same with foot on brake.
Inserted FOB into the "smart key holder" inside the center console and attempted to start. Nada - Attempted this because for one brief second during jumping process, panel flashed a message saying FOB not recognized then went away. Car responds to FOB just fine).
Inserted FOB in center console again following the instructions in this post. Didn't work. The brake pedal is solid. I read this is most likely because vacuum pressure did not build when the engine did not run.
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My 2012 SONTA GLS has about 200 miles and pulling RIGHT and having very difficult time dealing with Hyundai...
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For the last 60 miles, my fuel gauge is showing major usage,for every 6 miles it is using 1/10 of gauge.
When I go to fill gas it takes only less than 1/3 gallon of gas then it clicks full.
So I have driven 24 miles and it is showing 4/10 gauge used up.
No smell of gas
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with ~65k miles. I have an intermittent problem with the cranking, but will not start. It sounds like the fuel pump is "whirring" before start, and this only happens once a week or so. Other times, the car starts fine. The gas tank is ~1/4 full also.
There has been another intermittent issue (not sure if it's related) - with the O2 sensor heating coil. The check engine light comes on for a day or two and goes away wit the O2 heater coil problem. However, I'm not sure a sensor coil problem would cause the car to not start when it's cranking.
Could it be the crank sensor issue? Is that issue known to be sporadic?
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My car if left on in park for 3-4 minutes starts to have a heavy smell of something... Is my car running a little rich or is there a more serious underlying problem?
RPM of car idle is 750.
And car doesn't smell like fuel when I'm driving, only if I leave the car running for a while and it sits there does this smell begin to build up.
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I bought this car about three months ago. And got alignment done twice. Thought may be first time he didn't do properly. After alignment second time, having same issue.
Car pulls to left. I have to keep steering wheel pulling to the right all the time. When I leave it. It slightly turns to left. And car starts going to left.
But in even roads it turns to left. Where some roads are tilting to right. Steering wheel turns to left as usual. But car goes straight. If I take my foot of the accelerator it does less. But when I accelerate or have cruise control ON on freeway it does this more.
From home to destination my hand always pulling steering wheel to right. I have also rotated the tyres. Alignment is done twice. What can be the problem.
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I have a 2012 Sonata for 4 years. In the past year I've experienced the ABS, Brake, TC lights staying on. Then had a bad battery and a headlight go out. Got all that done but after 4 months on new battery, it failed, and the 3 lights came on again. According to codes, dealer says the issue is a valve and they cannot give an estimate for repair but to tear down the valve and probe to find it, will cost me $132. That doesn't set well with me so I elected to drive on with lights on. They did say the battery & headlight issues were not related to the 3 lights staying on.
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I purchased an 2012 Sonata GLS a couple months ago. Yesterday I decided to do an oil change, so I brought out my ramps and proceeded to drive up on them, the ramps are about 4 feet long so I have to be careful how much I accelerate to make sure I don't go over them, as I was driving up on them I noticed that even though I was in drive if I took my foot off the gas the car would immediately roll backwards off the ramp. I'm curious to see from other owners if this is normal behavior? The 2013 Altima I had was able to drive up the ramps and if I took my foot off the gas it would stay put. I also notice when I'm backing out and I switch to drive the car still moves backwards a little bit even though I just switched to drive - again I'm not sure if this is normal behavior since I've never had this issue with other cars I've owned.
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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I have a problem that before was working fine, I don't know if i disabled it or something. But my proximity key when i used to approach the car and press that small button on door handles would open my doors. Now that button don't work. I have a feeling i pressed something.
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Mine has done it a few times now. It seems to do it going up a very long gradual to steeper incline, such as climbing some mountains, when set to 60 MPH. It'll start dropping down until it gets to about 47 +/- MPH, then the cruise just kicks off. No downshifting in sight...
There's a stretch of route 219 through PA heading north towards NY that I encounter about once a month. Yesterday was the 2nd time I've had my Sonata on this trip, and it did it again. It actually did it twice last month on this trip.
The dealer reset the transmission computer due to very cold weather "slipping" from 1-2 shift after the first trip. It appears that didn't take care of this issue, though I didn't mention it to the dealer at the time (it slipped my mind).
I'm reluctant to take it to the dealer, since odds are they won't be able to duplicate the issue. We don't have any roads around here quite like the one this happens on.
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