Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 2.0T Won't Start - No Cranking
Sep 21, 2015
The first time I replaced a battery. It has run flawlessly until now. (Approx 57,000 miles) It is equipped with a push button start. FOB works fine to unlock doors, etc. I depressed the brake pedal and pushed the start button. Instrument panel lit up as normal, but there was no cranking. Nav comes on. Everything "looks" fine, but there is no engine activity.
I tried: I read a post where the person "rocked" the car back and forth several times and it ultimately started. Simple and immediate enough to try. No luck. A jump start. It didn't. Held start button for 30 seconds then attempted to start. No go. Did same with foot on brake.
Inserted FOB into the "smart key holder" inside the center console and attempted to start. Nada - Attempted this because for one brief second during jumping process, panel flashed a message saying FOB not recognized then went away. Car responds to FOB just fine).
Inserted FOB in center console again following the instructions in this post. Didn't work. The brake pedal is solid. I read this is most likely because vacuum pressure did not build when the engine did not run.
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2011 w/ 80k 6 spd man w/column start.
The last couple of months getting first crank attempt symptoms. Cranks fine but won't turn over. 2nd time fine. No OBD codes. Other times np at all. But today big problem.
- Started fine @ 5 degrees F (unusual for area)
- Warmed up fine
- Left in parking lot for 10 min
- Attempted start, could not. Then again the next 8 times.
- Finally wore down battery. Had it towed to dealer (I could feel the pocket suction)
Explained issue to dealer. 3 hrs later they called. Said it was the battery, had only 290 cc left. I explained before I wore it down there was plenty of power avail. Whatever, screwed anyway -- pay $115 diag or $149 for battery, just take the battery I said.
Took it home, seems fine for now but explained if I have to take my very sick son out in cold weather tomorrow there will be repercussions. Anyway, the whole situation is bizarre.
I've looked on other threads with auto tns and brake switch issues but that does not apply to manual. Only requirement is step on clutch. I read about crankshaft sensor but no codes. Only thing I found was perhaps loose fuses or wiring but dealer said they checked that and whole system is good.
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I own 2012 Sonata Limited, with 40,000 miles on it.
The push start wouldn't work this morning, the car will make the annoying clicking sound, the dashboard is lit up but bunch of icons are active, the brake is very hard.
I saw few people had same issue and they said it could be either 1) dead batter 2) starter kit issuue.
My car is parked on basement garage, not sure how it can be towed. I wish a simple jump start would fix it and maybe I can bring it to nearby shop for checkup.
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for the last 5 months, i have not been able to use my 2012 sonata which broke down in October last year and has since been in the dealership in Dubai and they have never taken any action. what happened is that the car just stopped when I was driving at normal highway speed. no indication, warning or anything came up. the car just stopped and did not start any more.
when the car got back to the dealership they called me after a few days and told me that my engine block is completely cracked and the whole engine has to be replaced. I don't understand this, the car was only about 16 moths old and has 23,000km on the odometer. the car was always serviced and never driven erratically. until today no one from Hyundai took any stance to the problem
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Just got my new work truck a '12 EB. This morning it was about 9 degrees and I jumped in and turned the key. The dash screen went out and the radio display went out then cycled back on but the starter didn't crank. I tried 2 more times with the same result. Then I just let the key in the on position for about 10 seconds and then I turned the key and it started right up. I stopped at several places and every time I went to start it it cranked and fired up the first try. Now tonight the truck has been sitting for 7 hours and it is 12 degrees, it took several tries before it cranked.
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My 2012 SONTA GLS has about 200 miles and pulling RIGHT and having very difficult time dealing with Hyundai...
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I bought this car about three months ago. And got alignment done twice. Thought may be first time he didn't do properly. After alignment second time, having same issue.
Car pulls to left. I have to keep steering wheel pulling to the right all the time. When I leave it. It slightly turns to left. And car starts going to left.
But in even roads it turns to left. Where some roads are tilting to right. Steering wheel turns to left as usual. But car goes straight. If I take my foot of the accelerator it does less. But when I accelerate or have cruise control ON on freeway it does this more.
From home to destination my hand always pulling steering wheel to right. I have also rotated the tyres. Alignment is done twice. What can be the problem.
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I have a 2012 Sonata for 4 years. In the past year I've experienced the ABS, Brake, TC lights staying on. Then had a bad battery and a headlight go out. Got all that done but after 4 months on new battery, it failed, and the 3 lights came on again. According to codes, dealer says the issue is a valve and they cannot give an estimate for repair but to tear down the valve and probe to find it, will cost me $132. That doesn't set well with me so I elected to drive on with lights on. They did say the battery & headlight issues were not related to the 3 lights staying on.
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I purchased an 2012 Sonata GLS a couple months ago. Yesterday I decided to do an oil change, so I brought out my ramps and proceeded to drive up on them, the ramps are about 4 feet long so I have to be careful how much I accelerate to make sure I don't go over them, as I was driving up on them I noticed that even though I was in drive if I took my foot off the gas the car would immediately roll backwards off the ramp. I'm curious to see from other owners if this is normal behavior? The 2013 Altima I had was able to drive up the ramps and if I took my foot off the gas it would stay put. I also notice when I'm backing out and I switch to drive the car still moves backwards a little bit even though I just switched to drive - again I'm not sure if this is normal behavior since I've never had this issue with other cars I've owned.
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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I have a problem that before was working fine, I don't know if i disabled it or something. But my proximity key when i used to approach the car and press that small button on door handles would open my doors. Now that button don't work. I have a feeling i pressed something.
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Mine has done it a few times now. It seems to do it going up a very long gradual to steeper incline, such as climbing some mountains, when set to 60 MPH. It'll start dropping down until it gets to about 47 +/- MPH, then the cruise just kicks off. No downshifting in sight...
There's a stretch of route 219 through PA heading north towards NY that I encounter about once a month. Yesterday was the 2nd time I've had my Sonata on this trip, and it did it again. It actually did it twice last month on this trip.
The dealer reset the transmission computer due to very cold weather "slipping" from 1-2 shift after the first trip. It appears that didn't take care of this issue, though I didn't mention it to the dealer at the time (it slipped my mind).
I'm reluctant to take it to the dealer, since odds are they won't be able to duplicate the issue. We don't have any roads around here quite like the one this happens on.
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Noticed a minor ping from my 2012 SE 2.4 when accelerating. Seemed to be less noticeable when A/C was turned off. Only have 6,500 miles on car. The oil level was down about 1/3 a quart; I topped off and will test tomorrow.
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Filled up with gas recently and afterward I have a distinct gas smell in the cabin and trunk. I see the 2011 Sonata has an issue with this. Apparently a pcv valve hose problem. The car is a GL. I did not overfill the tank and the cap is on tight. Has the pcv hose issue been fixed with the 2012 model? Are there other possible issues that could cause this? Plan to call the dealer tomorrow.
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I drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
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Where its located? Can't seem to pull...
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I was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
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On our 2012 Sonata all stock, the radio display screen is far dimmer than the rest of the lighting. When putting the lighting at a safe level for night time driving (ie not blinding), the display screen is far too dim. In order to see it, the dash lights need to be almost all up.
Any way to adjust? BTW, the radio knobs and preset lights are fine. It is only the diplay screen. This is NOT an issue on our 2012 Tucson. That one works perfectly. I flipped through all the obvious controls and found nothing
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I have a 2012 Sonata, just last December I started hearing like a ticking noise as I was driving. At first I didn't think nothing of it as it stopped. a few days later and moving forward the noise becomes intermittent. I took it to the dealer several times and they couldn't hear it until I had a technician drive with me and he heard it. As they began to examine my car I was told that the noise is coming for the high pressure valve and it is normal. The thing is the car has never made this noise until last year.
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I own a 2012 Sonata GLS -Automatic with about 66K on it.
So I don't know if it's the cold weather or what, but there is some light 3 second rattling going on from under the hood which has made me nervous. (seems to be coming from left side where the belts are - facing the hood- )
Two days ago, the malfunction light came on. The car stalled for a brief few seconds. Wife turns off and turns car on. She gets it moving. An hour later, I find an error read back: P0014 -Exhaust ( Camshift Position Timing - Over-Balanced (Bank 1). I took it to the mechanic, we replaced the oil and filter. Light goes away. No stalls since.
Still the rattling is there. Today as I was driving home, the car had a very slight chug, almost as if the car put on the brakes on its own, for about a split second. I was not shifting gears.
I am due for an alignment. Don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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My 2012 Sonata has the erratic fuel level indication. I've read enough posts here to pretty much assume I need to replace the sending unit.
I could go with OEM, but it seems this has plagued Hyundais for many years and across many models.
While I have the (fuel pump, filter & sender) assembly out (of the tank), when (miles) is it recommended to replace the fuel filter?
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