Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 2.0T - Slight Cabin Vibration When Idling At A Stop
Jul 15, 2013
When I'm idling my car at a stop, I notice a slight vibrating through the car... The vibration could also be felt through the steering wheel.
Not a major issue. Tried pushing car into neutral to see if it made a difference... Nothing.
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Filled up with gas recently and afterward I have a distinct gas smell in the cabin and trunk. I see the 2011 Sonata has an issue with this. Apparently a pcv valve hose problem. The car is a GL. I did not overfill the tank and the cap is on tight. Has the pcv hose issue been fixed with the 2012 model? Are there other possible issues that could cause this? Plan to call the dealer tomorrow.
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I have a 2012 SE I4 with 500 miles on it. I have noticed that while sitting at stop lights, the car vibrates slightly and I can feel it on the seat since day 1. It gets better if the AC is on. I would expect that when stopped and sitting at a stop light, the car should idle smoothly and not notice the engine. If I put in N or P, I don't feel the engine running at all either through steering wheel or the seat. Is it normal? It is really annoying me since the car is less than a week old.
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I own a 2012 Sonata GLS -Automatic with about 66K on it.
So I don't know if it's the cold weather or what, but there is some light 3 second rattling going on from under the hood which has made me nervous. (seems to be coming from left side where the belts are - facing the hood- )
Two days ago, the malfunction light came on. The car stalled for a brief few seconds. Wife turns off and turns car on. She gets it moving. An hour later, I find an error read back: P0014 -Exhaust ( Camshift Position Timing - Over-Balanced (Bank 1). I took it to the mechanic, we replaced the oil and filter. Light goes away. No stalls since.
Still the rattling is there. Today as I was driving home, the car had a very slight chug, almost as if the car put on the brakes on its own, for about a split second. I was not shifting gears.
I am due for an alignment. Don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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I have a Phaeton V8, and at idle I can feel a slight rumbling in the cabin. Just slight, but I always imagined that you wouldn't be able to feel the engine idling clearly in the shaking of the cabin. Is everyone's like this?
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2011, 2.0T, with 58,000 miles, and everything's perfect, nothing but synthetic oil changes and premium fuel. But, Over the last month, I get a new vibration when I come to a complete stop, and stay in Drive. Once I shift to Neutral, it naturally goes away, and it shifts normally. I've never done anything to the Tranny.
The car has always been like this but this new vibration is bad, I can feel the pulsing in the brake pedal and you can hear it in the engine. What's making me take it to the Dealer is when my wife drove it, she said she noticed it, I said it must be bad.
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I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai santa fe 2.4l with 94k miles. when sitting at a idle it has a slight vibration in the cabin, feels like a slightly rough idle, when you drive the vibration is gone. I also had it throw misfire codes for cyl 2 and 4. I put in new plugs and changed the wires, coils are on the way. When the car is in drive and I put the parking brake on and walk up to the motor it sounds like it has a exhaust manifold leak, but I only hear it when in drive. I guess my question is, could this exhaust leak be causing the rough idle or will this be fixed once the new coils are on?
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On my way home from work today, I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel and could even feel it in the shifter when stopped in drive at a light or stop sign. the car was fully warmed up and this was still happening. I don't really recall this before, but noticed it tonight as my hand felt it.
side note - I did do some spirited driving with a friend on Thursday, (two days ago) but drove the car yesterday and didn't notice the issue. I was thinking maybe I damaged something, but then again I would have felt it yesterday. so I sure hope not. Again its not a very harsh constant vibration but very slight but enough to get my attention. when I switch the car to neutral it stops and back to drive it starts again.
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My wifes 06 4runner 2wd with 120000 miles on it needed a new battery. I changed the battery that night and my wife called me the next morning when i was at work and told me that her car was idling low with a slight vibration at almost all speeds. Also, when stepping on gas pedal from a dead stop the vehicle hesitates only momentarily and then lurches forward like its slamming into 1st gear and then shifts and drives normally beyond first gear... I am perplexed. Never had any issues with tranny or any other component of the car for that matter until i changed the battery.
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So about 5 months ago I started feeling vibrations in my seat and steering wheel. I got my tires road force balanced and it solved the issue. I just got back from a weeks long vacation in Maine. Before I left I had the tires road force balanced again to ensure a smooth ride up. I left some shaking in my seat so I wanted to get it ironed out.
While driving up my seat and the entire cabin shook when I exceeded 70 MPH, it got worse and worse the faster I went. The steering wheel didn't shake at all. I figured the tech balancing the tires did a bad job so I visited the BJ's in Portland. They re-balanced all my tires, I was present when the job was being done and noticed they were all out of balance.
The BJ's tech said it look like the shop that did the balancing over balanced each wheel (too much weight on each wheel). As soon as I hit the highway the same thing happened, shaking above 70MPH. At this point I determined it was probably a bent wheel. I visited a local wheel repair shop, they checked out both my rear wheels, since the steering wheel wasn't shaking I didn't bother checking the front ones.
It turns out both rear wheels are ever so slightly bent, they attempted the straighten out the more bent one. They tech repairing the wheel said he was surprised I even felt anything at all. So I had my hopes up that the problem would be fixed but as soon as I hit the road the same shaking returned. At this point, what's wrong with my car. I'm thinking of buying 4 new wheels, the car came from the factory with low profile 18 inch wheels which have been a curse.
A few more details about my car:
Toyo Proxes 4 Plus - Ultra high performance tires (Maybe contribute to harsh ride?) 20K miles on them
Installed thicker 20mm rear sway bar 6 months ago (But I never had shaking until now)
Installed front tower strut bar 6 months ago.
Total mileage 32K
I have hit lots of pot holes the past 2 winters lost 2 OEM tires and bent 1 wheel last year which was repaired.
Also I can't drive through it, the shaking doesn't stop with more speed it only gets worse. And the back end has started to feel squirrely over bumps.
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Love the car; hate the noise. Very quiet up front, well-isolated engine and wind noise. Perhaps that is why I am hearing a bunch of road or tire noise from the REAR only. Noise varies somewhat with speed but it is driving me crazy. Somewhat muted with the stereo at volume level 12 (or higher). I have not been to the dealer yet but am wondering if something is NOT properly sealed or undercoated in the rear. I noticed the wheel wells are partially coated but mostly plastic. Plus, since this is a GLS, there is a large void in the underbody where the second muffler & associated hardware/piping goes on the SE. Not sure if the LIMITED model has additional sound deadening material but my GLS is too noisy.
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Well I started smelling Gas fumes in the cabin of my 11 GLS. The smell was intermittent for about a month now. Then last weekend it started getting bad. I found it only smelled when pulling fresh air through the HVAC, so it had to be under the hood. Pulled the engine cover to find the foam backing was soaked with gas. Started the car and could see the Hard fuel line dripping.
I saw from other post on the forum that this tube has one time use fitting on both ends and that a special tool is needed to torque the fittings. Dropped it off at the dealer yesterday and they are replacing the line today.
I tell you all this because the Dealer said that their records show my car had the short block replaced at 24000 miles. When replaced they probably didn't torque the line correctly causing it to leak.
The question I have is, Should I be more or less worried about the bottom end of this engine now that I know it has been replaced? The car has 44000 miles on it now.
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Looking for pics of how to change the cabin filter?
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2008 2.4 GLS auto, 64000 miles
Only taken this car on 2 highway road trips. 2 years ago = 34mpg on 900 mile trip (@36000 miles), last week = 31 mpg, EXACT same trip, this time in December, last time in September. Other difference - slightly perceptible tick noticeable if I stand in front of car idling.
Bought July 2009 (almost 24 months old) @ 32000 miles, oil changes every 3000 miles since, tranny fluid at 60000.
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I recently acquired a 2014 Sonata Limited 2.4L. Don't know if its me or not but engine noise seems to be excessive in the cabin especially when I am accelerating from a very low speed, almost like something in the engine is loose. Had it at the dealership today for warranty work (seat belt) and recall work and asked the techs to take a listen when the do their inspection. They came back and said that the noise is coming from the electric fuel pump and that it is totally normal. Previous car I had was a 2011 Honda Accord Ex and it seamed quieter.
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited that now has 70k+ miles on it. For the past year I have been having a problem with the car turning off intermittently, it will occur at random times. I have had no issues starting the car whatsoever.
When I go to shut off my car the engine will turn off, but the cabin lights, and radio will stay on. The screen will also tell me to shift to park. Without turning the car fully on, I can shift the gears sometimes and I will shift it from drive to park again, and it still will not fully shut off. Today, it actually took 20 minutes to get it to go off - every time I hit the start/stop button I could hear it click as well, which was a new noise that I hadn't detected.
I have presented this problem to the dealership, but every time I do take it in the issue never seems to occur while there (just my luck) and they say they have "never heard of such an issue" to the point where I feel insane.
All recalls have been taken care of on my car at this point so I am not sure what the issue is, my fear is the switch is going out, but wouldn't I have the same issue starting the car?
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I just got the Hyundai Sonata SE 2013 and it's great so far. I have a question about the recycled air button. It seems to be controlled by the internal computer for different scenarios.
My issue is that when I have the air turned on and let's so that I turn it off (set to 0) the recycled air mode disables and I start smelling the outside air coming in. So I have to manually push the button to enable recycle air to close the outside vents.
Also, when I turn off the car and later start it back up again recycled air is disabled again! How can I get the mode to stay on recycled air (or the mode it was previously on) when I start the car!?
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For the past couple of days i've had condensation on the windshields during cold mornings and nights and thought something was up. I looked around and found the carpet on the driver's side of my car is damp and there was a puddle of water directly underneath the seat. I've read it might be a clogged AC drain or something like that. Some solutions seem to be either blowing the AC drain underneath the car with compressed air to get rid of a clog, or finding the tube inside the car and properly reconnecting it incase it got dislodged or kinked somehow. Or does this sound like a different problem? Again only the driver's side carpet seems to be wet.
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i have a 04 f150 2WD I've been noticing a slight vibration on initial takeoff, it only lasts for a couple of seconds then it goes away. I have the "non serviceable drive shaft" the u joints are staked into the yoke. there is some up and down play where the drive shaft goes into the transmission extension housing. Does that play is normal or what may be causing the vibration?
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I've noticed that when I am driving my car in the morning there is a slight vibration in the car, it feels like the rear, but it could be the whole car. After I drive it for a while this vibration goes away. The vibration never comes back again until the next morning, even when the car sits at work for 8 hours the vibration doesn't appear.
It's not a violent vibration, it's very subtle but it is noticeable. I'm thinking that most likely it is my struts and shocks, I know that they probably need to be replaced soon (with our shocks being crap).
I don't think my wheels are out of alignment as the car doesn't pull to any side at all and my brakes are also good and not sticking. The car has 86K on it. What is going on and if I should be more concerned than I am or is it just worn shocks and or struts?
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I have a 2011 RX350 and like car for the most part. Something strange I have noticed is that the gas pedal seams to have some little vibration when I am pressing it smoothly. My foot is constant on the gas pedal maybe 1/4 of the way down and it doesn't feel smooth like other vehicles. I have a 2014 lex IS250 and it doesn't have that vibration. Also had a 2004 RX330 and it did not have that vibration. It is a slight vibration that ruins the luxury driving experience.
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