Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 2.0 SE Would Not Upshift Correctly / Roaring Noise From Transmission
Mar 9, 2015
Late January started having transmission problems. Car would not upshift correctly. Sometimes it would not shift out of 4th unless I used either the paddle or the sport shift. Even when it would up shift to the proper gear the torque converter would not lock/unlock correctly. When at speed and I would lift off throttle trans would not free wheel/coast. It would act like you downshifted to engine brake. Sometimes when doing 60+mph rpm would be about 3000 and would get a 'roaring' noise from trans and would require more peddle than normal to accelerate. It was like the trans had selected two gears and they were fighting each other. Sometimes when this happened would smell acrid clutch burning odor when stopped.
I live near Cape Cod so you have been watching the weather you know we have been getting slammed with snow. Because of the snow I didn't get to the dealer until Feb. Tech took car for test drive with me riding shotgun, luckily transmission did everything listed in first paragraph which made the tech a believer. He did some diagnostics and called Hyundai Tech Service. They requested additional diagnostics which would more time and they wanted car earlier in the week since this was a Friday. The technician did reset the transmission adaptive and returned car to me.
OK now comes much more snow. I put more miles on my snow blower than my car. The adaptive reset made some improvements but proper up shifts were not there but trans growling and odor still there.
Finally got back to dealer today. Additional diagnostics done and the Regional Hyundai rep who was at the dealership agreed to replace transmission under Warranty.
I am original owner. Car is a 2012 2.0 SE with 61600 miles purchased Dec. 2011.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
My 2013 Sonata GLS has a noise that is in the rear of the vehicle going down the road. I rotated tires from back to front and noise seemed to move to front. I moved them back to rear so noise would be behind me. This told me the noise must be the tires or wheels. The tires are a long way from being worn out so I keep running them. I have the stock alloy wheels but previous owner put 225/40R18 tires on car. Tires size on door jam label says tire size on this GLS is supposed to be 225/45R18.
Could it be the wheels and not the tires? Another possibility could be factory lug nuts on back wheels. I read in my street rod magazine that lug taper length must be shorter than the taper length on wheel lug holes. Lugs cannot be so long that lugs hit the wheel backplate leaving the wheels slightly loose and not centered leaving a slight tire wobble when driving. The article says the lug taper much be shorter than the taper in the wheels in order to snug the nuts. I did not switch the lugs when rotating tires to front. If this is the problem rather than tires or wheels, Hyundai had a lug supplier problem.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2009 Sonata (4 cyl) with 110,000 miles.I have a loud roaring noise coming from my right front end. Jacked car up several times, all seems very tight and wheel spins smoothly. This has been going on for over 5000 miles and I have been waiting for the ailment to show its self more clearly in order to diagnose. sound does not change when turning in either direction or breaking. sound increases with speed and is quite loud at 55mph. Had to replace a tire and put it on the right front to see if it was tire wear and there was no change. sounds like loud road noise.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2012 Sonata, just last December I started hearing like a ticking noise as I was driving. At first I didn't think nothing of it as it stopped. a few days later and moving forward the noise becomes intermittent. I took it to the dealer several times and they couldn't hear it until I had a technician drive with me and he heard it. As they began to examine my car I was told that the noise is coming for the high pressure valve and it is normal. The thing is the car has never made this noise until last year.
View 2 Replies
Just got a 2012 Limited 2.0T about 3 weeks ago. Didn't notice until last week that there is a noise coming from drivers front tire area at low speed (15-20mph). It sounds like a thin piece a metal is getting snagged and then snapping back into place. Took it back to Hyundai and they pulled the wheel and said everything looks fine and that it's due to new brakes needing to "wear in". At the time it was very limited when you would hear it, in the past week it's increased to an almost constant noise until I get over 20mph. I've searched and can't find anything dealing with this particular noise, what exactly I should look for when I pull everything apart? I'm more inclined to try and fix myself than believe the dealer. I can't seem to isolate it to a particular thing when driving, it does it on turns, going straight, stopping, accelerating.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 127k miles on it and I'm trying to diagnose a problem, possibly with transmission.
Since I bought the car at 115k miles I started hearing a noise from engine zone, which appears quite rarely. Noise resembles valve knocking, appears mostly at traffic lights and colder weather (evenings). I was trying to catch the sound by recording it while using emergency brake at D pos. but the sound disappeared right after releasing brake pedal.
Describing in a different way it sounds like a propeller touching something with its blades. The sound also appears at 1900rpm on any gear (mostly when slightly releasing gas pedal around 2k rpm).
While trying to understand/fix the issue I used:
- liqui moly valve cleaner and engine flush
- techtron injection cleaner
- replaced spark plugs
These operations had almost 0 effect on car behavior. The symptoms boil down to a torque converter. Transmission shifts fine, I was going to try transmission fluid change ( a full change by dealer), however it may do more harm, so I'm not sure yet.
View 12 Replies
I am having an issue with my 1998 5.4l Expedition, e4od. It will not up-shift from 2-3... It feels almost like it's in a 4x4LOW shift schedule.
I've done a lot of research, I was really hoping the fault was inside the valve body and a stuck spring or valve. I went ahead and scanned the computer and I have no codes. The O/D light does not blink. I can toggle it off and on via the button on the end of the shifter.
I watched the gear data correlate with the shifting to eliminate the cable. The reverse lights come on when in reverse, manual 1 works, reverse works, and I can get it to upshift to 2nd with manual two. In {D}, 1st gear runs until the engine is @ apprx 4,000rpm and if i let the throttle go a bit, it'll upshift to 2nd. Speed will keep increasing until the engine is screaming at 5500rpm.
It does not ever neutral out. It just wont upshift..
I pulled the TRS harness off to inspect, and I checked for codes whilst it was unplugged just to be sure I can read TCM codes. The TRS code showed up.
I tested the TPS sensor and it checks out good.
My speedo works fine and as well as my Tach.
The fluid was not low on initial check with the onset of symptoms. So, I went ahead after doing my tests, drained the pan and dropped it. I pulled the accumulator body and as well as the valve body. I could not get the solenoid off today. I will tomorrow and I will ohm it out. I inspected the valve body and accumulator body and to be honest, I do not know what a stuck valve or accumulator looks like or what it would feel like.
The pan magnet had grey material on it. I pressed it between my fingertips and it did not feel like metal. The one third to the right didnt like right at first, but I can feel a little movement when pressing it in. My camera basically washed out, but without disassembling the individual valves, they look intact via the spaces. The last one on the right is stationary..
I cannot tell if these look right (they are unaltered)
The one on the left felt like it was catching when being pressed in
What else could cause no upshift and no codes?
View 10 Replies
Daughter bought 05' Santa Fe 4wd 3.5L, from original owner ,car has 47,000 miles on it, was maintained by dealer, and was obvious that car was well taken car of.
So first issue was throttle hesitation, which was mostly corrected by software update.
Now, transmission is acting goofy. If you step on gas heavily, it's as if the front wheels - or tranny -slip, then catch. Almost like a limited slip, then as it up shifts, you get a clunk. If it starts out in 2nd (I dont understand this ) then it's clunking going into 3rd.
If you are gently taking off, tranny acts normal. If you're cruising and punch it, it upshifts well, car goes nice.
Daughter called dealer who said update to throttle programming should have corrected any shift issues
So tech takes it out for ride, is able to get it to act up and states : issue in internal, and we need new tranny. 47,000 miles and need new tranny. Nice
I'm wondering if a fluid change and battery disconnect would work. Seems to me the the tech did a quick and dirty diagnosis.
View 3 Replies
About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).
View 14 Replies
Wife just had 2 new tires put on. the front tires were pretty worn out and the rear tires still looked good. anyways they put the new tires on the rear and put the rear used tires on the front. now she said she is hearing a roaring noise that goes away after she drives a littler bit. i took it for a test drive and i kinda hear a roaring noise coming from the front of the car. almost sounds like a large truck tire going down the highway. but i dont think these small stock tires should sound like that right? could the tire be bad even though they look decent? broken belt of something inside them?
View 12 Replies
I have a 2000 Passat Wagon with a V6 and automatic.
When in "D", the transmission refuses to upshift sometimes. Moving to the tiptronic gate and manually upshifting works, so I think it's a control issue and not something mechanical with the transmission.
It also downshifts inappropriately on occasion. For example, when lifting off the throttle and coasting down just to lose a little speed, it downshifts and I get engine braking. I'm not looking forward to this in the snow. Once again, I can manually upshift just fine when this happens.
View 12 Replies
Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
View 2 Replies
So my daughter's '04 Jetta SW 2.0 will not upshift and has the engine light on. After having it read by the local shop I have the following codes:
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
So what to do? I read a lot about issues about the alleged poorly designed/manufactured stock "Auto Trans Valve Body" and how that seems to be a culprit of shifting issues above 150K.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2012 ford f350 SRW 4x4 with the 6.7L. Problem I have just started to have. When going downhill in tow haul the truck at first will hold you back then all of a sudden it starts to up shift at 20 mph it reaches 6th gear pretty quick. I talked to the dealer and they suggested I was pushing the shift buttons, but I am not. They told me to drive it till next week and then they will see if there are any codes in it.
View 14 Replies
On occasion my 2001 Monte Carlo SS will sometimes upshift all the way to 4th gear when leaving a stop sign. Then it will lug & vibrate obviously from being in high gear at a low speed. I can pull over & shut car off for a minute then start it again & it will shift just fine like normal. Then randomly out of the blue it will do it again without any sort of pattern. I replaced the main computer but that didnt work.
View 1 Replies
The first time I replaced a battery. It has run flawlessly until now. (Approx 57,000 miles) It is equipped with a push button start. FOB works fine to unlock doors, etc. I depressed the brake pedal and pushed the start button. Instrument panel lit up as normal, but there was no cranking. Nav comes on. Everything "looks" fine, but there is no engine activity.
I tried: I read a post where the person "rocked" the car back and forth several times and it ultimately started. Simple and immediate enough to try. No luck. A jump start. It didn't. Held start button for 30 seconds then attempted to start. No go. Did same with foot on brake.
Inserted FOB into the "smart key holder" inside the center console and attempted to start. Nada - Attempted this because for one brief second during jumping process, panel flashed a message saying FOB not recognized then went away. Car responds to FOB just fine).
Inserted FOB in center console again following the instructions in this post. Didn't work. The brake pedal is solid. I read this is most likely because vacuum pressure did not build when the engine did not run.
View 4 Replies
My 2012 SONTA GLS has about 200 miles and pulling RIGHT and having very difficult time dealing with Hyundai...
View 119 Replies
Just purchased a 2007 Sonata Limited from an original owner. Love the car so far and generally super-pleased with my purchase. However, I noticed last night, while driving it at night on highway for the first time, that the headlights (low beams) didn't look like they were aligned correctly. I could see a cutoff showing as a shadow and that looked like the lights were partly being obscured on the bottom half. It seemed more prevalent with the driver-side headlight.
I took it to a local dealership service center (rhymes with Bitz) and the service guy claimed that nothing could be done about it. It is just this way. I figure I'll get a second opinion 'cause it sounded like BS, but I wanted to at least ask on here about this.
View 4 Replies
1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
View 9 Replies
Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
View 14 Replies
I bought this car about three months ago. And got alignment done twice. Thought may be first time he didn't do properly. After alignment second time, having same issue.
Car pulls to left. I have to keep steering wheel pulling to the right all the time. When I leave it. It slightly turns to left. And car starts going to left.
But in even roads it turns to left. Where some roads are tilting to right. Steering wheel turns to left as usual. But car goes straight. If I take my foot of the accelerator it does less. But when I accelerate or have cruise control ON on freeway it does this more.
From home to destination my hand always pulling steering wheel to right. I have also rotated the tyres. Alignment is done twice. What can be the problem.
View 11 Replies
