Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Ticking Coming From Driver Side Speaker
Apr 26, 2016
This happens every single day. I'll be sitting in the car, keys in, or keys out of the ignition and all of a sudden you will hear ticking coming from the drivers side speaker. Then silence. Then randomly you hear the damned thing ticking again, sometimes 3 ticks, sometimes 4, sometimes 2, sometimes more.
It's happens sporadically. A different amount of ticks each time. It happens with car power on and off.
I'm assuming this is a build up of static? I have a subwoofer and amp installed and the power cable is running along the drivers side, could the speaker be picking up the electrical interference?
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So I have finally solved the rattle that has been seemingly coming from my driver side dash speaker. I'm not exactly sure which of the 3 things I did fixed it, but it's fixed.
First, I removed the 2 10mm bolts securing the speaker and removed the wiring harness. I noticed that there are 2 metal clips that those bolts screw into and they are loose, so I took some electrical tape and just taped over them to keep them from rattling.
Next, I found the wire for the speaker has a plastic shroud around it that is very stiff and could make noise, so I wrapped that with electrical tape as well.
Finally, the thing that was most likely the cause of the rattle was a loose wiring harness attached to the firewall. If you reach into the speaker hole you will feel the harness just under the hole. Where the harness is attached to the firewall it was extremely loose. I simply took a paper towel and was able to wedge it behind the harness and the firewall which kept it from moving.
Now the driver side rattle is gone, but I've noticed another rattle somewhere else near the center/passenger side of the dash. Every time I fix one rattle I seem to find another. Maybe I'm being a little OCD about it.
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I seem to be having an issue with my air conditioning. I don't think it's an ID-10T error, but it is very peculiar.
My driver side vents blow hot or lukewarm air, however my passenger vents are ice cold. I have the 15 limited, so it does have the "dual" control, and as such I think the issue may be related to that.
Both controls are set to low, max fan, head only, and AC. The "Sync" and "Auto" buttons have no effect.
Any things I can check? I really do not want to bring it into the dealer as they treated me very poorly the last time I came in and my car was out for a month.
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Having problems with a squeaking or ticking noise coming from the front windshield area on the passenger side? I took off the A-pillar and tweeter speaker cover, and the noise was still there. Pressing on the A-pillar did not work and it's not any of the cords or plastics in there rubbing. It almost sounds like it's behind the A-pillar. Pressing on the dash, windshield, headliner, etc. all have no effect on the noise.
I'm trying really hard to fix this myself because I'm worried about a tech tearing apart the dash trying to fix it. It might end up worse than it is now. I'm thinking this TSB will need to be done (which seems to apply to all Toyotas): [URL] ....
Next on my list to check is the passenger side mirror (make sure it's fastened securely) and also the black liner under the windshield wipers. I also have foam (like the kind you use when installing a window AC) which I may also try stuffing into the bottom of the front windshield (and maybe the top) to see if that works.
If all else fails, the car is going to the dealer I guess. The Camry is such a quiet car that the noise is really irritating in an otherwise quiet interior. Other than this noise, the car is great! Just a little bummed because my 2005 has zero rattles or noises and my gf's old 2009 also had no rattles or noises. The 2015 refresh is nice, though we're still on the fence about the front grille. My relative is waiting for the 2016's to be released later this year and then he will be buying one for his patrol car. The 2015 isn't a full redesign but it looks different enough that he wants to wait for the next MY to come out. He's dreading leaving behind his 5MT Civic but it needs to be replaced. He hasn't had an auto, ever, come to think of it..
It sounds exactly like this, and is at its worse when accelerating: [URL] ....
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I'm pressing the button up on the drivers console and on the rear door but it won't go up. It went down no problem but it won't come back up. Checked all fuses and they're fine.
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I recently noticed a noise coming from the left side of the engine where the pulley's are. It sounds like a ticking noise coming from where the belt is. What the possible solution could be.
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I purchased a brand new 2014 SFS 2.4L Luxury just a week ago. I have noticed rattling/ticking noise coming from the driver side door. If I press againt the door with my elbow, the noise stops.
And here is the weird thing, I can hear the noise in the morning when the car is cooled overnight (parked in underground garage). But it does not happen when the car has been parked under the sun for a long period of time (in 25C/77F). So basically, I hear it on my way to work and it disappears on my way home.
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I'm not sure if I've just gotten used to the sound of the car or what but lately, it seems like the engine is ticking pretty loudly. It runs perfectly and I didn't think much of it until my friend commented on it. Sounds like it is coming from the drivers side (mainly).
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My wife is talking to someone about purchasing a 1998 4.6 4x4 EB Expedition. The owner says the only issue is a tick coming from the driver's side head. He claims the shop told him it was "just a cam stator". Now, say what you will, but I've dabbled just enough with mod motors (2v and 3v, 4.6's and 5.4's) to feel like I'd rather stick to old pushrods. I've never heard of a "cam stator" on a 2v 4.6. I also realize that stator is a word that gets tossed around a bit by people who don't fully understand what it is.
Now, this is a relatively high mileage engine (something like 220k I think) so I know it could be a whole slew of things from cracked/leaking exhaust mani, lifters, timing chain, etc. But, in all my searching, "2v 4.6 cam stator" keeps leading me to people troubleshooting pushrod distributors, 3v VVT troubleshooting, and alternator related posts. Is this such a thing, what this shop may have been trying to refer to? He claims it's done it for about 5 years now, and runs perfectly fine. I'm leaning towards lifter, but the truck is 3 hours away so I haven't got to check it out yet....
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I'm having an issue with my drivers side door trim vibrating. Bumpy roads, snow covered roads, pretty much any road surface that isn't perfect, this piece of trip vibrates and makes a squeaking noise. I've attached a picture and put a circle where the noise is coming from. If I hold that part with my hand, the noise stops. It's very annoying since it's right next to my ear!
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
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So I brought my car in to an audio video place to have hush mat in the front doors to prevent a rattle noise from my bass. Turns out the rattle is coming from the window switches.
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How to deaden the annoying loud ticking!!
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Recently when I first start my car in the morning, there is a rattling noise, which sounds like it's coming from the driver's side of the engine bay, or possibly just under the drivers side door. It only lasts for a couple of minutes. It will increase I accelerate, and then decrease as soon as I lift off the gas. After a couple minutes, the rattling goes away, and everything is right in the world. Today I drove it around the block and parked while it was still rattling away. When I put it in park the rattling went away. I put it back in drive and it came back. Then as usual it finally went away whether in drive or park. I'm completely stumped on this one. It's an '08 2.4l GLS and has 138,000 miles.
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A couple of weeks ago I started hearing this rattling/thumping coming from under the driver's side floorboard when the car is started. Almost sounds like a loose exhaust pipe. You can hear just little rattling under idle but it goes away (or you can't hear it) while driving.
Both shops (Pep Boys and dealer) told me it's quite expensive to replace. I just started looking around and I do see aftermarket cats for a few hundred. How hard can this replacement be for the average driveway mechanic?
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